Toyota AC Quirk

  • Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #1283521

    I’ve been noticing a bit of a problem with the AC on my ’01 Sequoia. The AC works great when driving, but when idling or crawling slowly (i.e. stop & go traffic), it blows warm air. As soon as I pick up speed, it blows frosty air again.

    I’ve checked, and it appears that the under-hood fans are functioning properly. Any easy ideas before I bring it in?

    18fisher
    Hastings,MN
    Posts: 412
    #1193801

    Check the condenser coil to see if its clean. When you’re moving there is enough air moving over it to keep it cool, stop and go traffic it heats up.

    Have you had any work done to the ac system?

    onestout
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 2698
    #1193802

    Sounds like it is low on froen.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #1193804

    Quote:


    Have you had any work done to the ac system?



    Not since I have owned it (6 years).

    GumboGut
    South Metro
    Posts: 7
    #1193805

    Here is a great forum for all things Tundra and Sequoia: tundrasolutions.com

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #1193806

    Quote:


    Check the condenser coil to see if its clean.



    I assume this is right near the radiator. Whats the best way to clean it?

    trophy19
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 1206
    #1193818

    Likely not the cause, but replacing the cabin air filter mada a huge difference in my Avalon. Wasn’t happy with the AC so changed it last week during the last heat wave. The filter hadn’t been changed in many years (if at all) – was incredibly full of crap. Now fan output is much higher and seems to cool a lot better. $10 – give it a try; likely a scheduled maintenance item anyway.

    Pete

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11660
    #1193819

    If you’ve just noticed this after a number of years of ownership, I doubt it’s a “feature”, but it could be. My last SUV had a feature that would disable the AC if the engine temp got above a certain level. Presumably to reduce the strain on the engine. I noticed it only when towing a really heavy load in stop/go traffic a couple of times.

    But the most likely thing wiht an 01 is that you have a small leak and you’re low on refrigerant. There are top-up kits you can buy that include the gauge and hose so you can top up the system yourself. Key is finding the correct service port, but that forum should be able to help with that.

    Grouse

    big_g
    Isle, MN
    Posts: 22456
    #1193849

    I vote low on freon or compressor going out

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #1193931

    Quote:


    Check the vent temperature running down the road. At max, should be in the low 40s minimum.



    The fan blows well, and when driving at speed, it blows really cold air. I fail to see how this could be a fan control module.

    trumar
    Rochester, Mn
    Posts: 5967
    #1193943

    Ac will cycle on/off alot at an idle if low on freon.

    For cleaning the condenser I made a blower using brake line and a cheaper air blower, blow the condenser both directions,Not sure if you have an cabin filter but if you change it.

    BE SURE NOT TO DAMAGAE THE CONDESONSOR FINS !

    JMHO

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11660
    #1193961

    Ralph, just as a note, the AC charging units I have used in the past all have a little gauge on them that tells you if they system is low on refirgerant. I bought mine at Fleet Farm for about $20 and then you attach cans of refrigerant, but the gauge set is reusable.

    I would suspect the disposo units that have the gauge on the can work in the same way?

    So if you’re willing to spring for one of those charging units, hooking it up and reading the gauge will confirm if refrigerant is the issue right off the bat. The system is either low or it isn’t.

    My sister thought her SUV was low on refrigerant, but I was having trouble believing a 5 year old truck would be leaking already, so I had her come over and I hooked up the gauge. System was full. So at least we eliminated one option. Turned out it was some little electrical do-dad, but nice to know that we tried everything I could do.

    Anyway, bottom line is that it’s probably $20 or less to confirm the problem is/isn’t refirgerant. I’d guess that if you take it to a dealer it’ll be a bit more than that even if it does only need a little top-up.

    Grouse

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