My motor was sounding a 3 beep alarm today while on the water. I bought it used so I don’t have a manual, and can’t find anything online, to figure out what this alarm is for. Despite the alarm, motor ran great as usual. Any one with a similar model know what this alarm is for? Better yet, any gear heads want to help me resolve this solution? I’m on a tight budget and would like to avoid paying a mechanic for labor if at all possible. Thanks.
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My motor was sounding a 3 beep alarm today while on the water. I bought it used so I don’t have a manual, and can’t find anything online, to figure out what this alarm is for. Despite the alarm, motor ran great as usual. Any one with a similar model know what this alarm is for? Better yet, any gear heads want to help me resolve this solution? I’m on a tight budget and would like to avoid paying a mechanic for labor if at all possible. Thanks.
You didn’t mention if the motor was in trolling speed or throttled up. I have a 1995 50 hp ELPTO that alarms when I have it throttled down. It is the oil injection sensor, and I just disconnected it. I check my oil before the boat ever gets out of the garage, so I am OK with that. There was a design flaw with some of those engines, so that might be your problem. 
First happened at full throttle while cruising back to the landing. Then happened again at idle while loading boat onto trailer.
low oil is 4 beeps.
3 beeps is “Engine problem has occurred. Engine will run rough and/or stall. Engine may not restart. Have your dealer check the engine”.
check water separation filter if it has one not familiar with model your talking about but my buddy had same issue and filter was full of water just drain and put back in and good to go… hope this helps
I don’t know how easy it is to read the attached manual pages but 3 beeps could mean a battery issue, coolant issue or fuel injectors. Test the battery first. If it’s not that it looks like a trip to the mechanic will be in order. That will be cheaper in the long run than chasing the problem yourself.
Thanks for the help. After reading the manual, the 3 beeps weren’t every 4 minutes, they were separated by about 20 seconds. Also, it first started with a continuous beep for about 5 seconds when I ran wide open then it went into the 3 beep pattern. I also don’t think the guardian system kicked in because I was able to operate the motor at full throttle during and after the alarm went off. I have a hunch its the battery because it’s 2 years old, I just installed another locator that powers off that battery and was on most of the time I was fishing, the new locator has given me a “low voltage” warning, and the motor alarm did go until the end of the day. Does that logic make sense to others? Should I try getting out with a new battery and see if that problem is resolved, or just bring it to a mechanic?
Actually there is potential the battery is much older, the “1” is scratched out so I initially assumed that meant 2011, but there is no “0” so it could also be 2001. I bought the boat used this March so don’t know for sure.
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Actually there is potential the battery is much older, the “1” is scratched out so I initially assumed that meant 2011, but there is no “0” so it could also be 2001. I bought the boat used this March so don’t know for sure.
I suspect your starting battery has gone bad. I would test that before you spend a bunch of time taking it in to the dealership.
If you have have a second deep cycle batter, move the starting wires over to that battery and try it. If the beeps go away, you know what it was.
The other alternative is take it in to a place that can load test it. If you’re not sure of the battery age and you weren’t the one that maintained it, I’d be suspicious of the battery before going into the motor. Previous owner could have left that batter in the boat all winter, never topping it up or maintaining it etc, etc. Even if it WAS a 2011, a battery that’s abused and left run-down could well be shot even in just 2 years.
Next thing i’d test if the battery wasn’t looking like the problem would be the alternator. Again, easy test if you have a multimeter.
Grouse
Grouse- just hook up motor leads to a deep cycle, what my trolling motor is connected to? Can I start the motor from this battery? Also, if I purchase a new battery for cranking, should I go with a dual purpose since I will be constantly running two locators off this battery, or buy another deep cycle just for electronics?
You should be able to start a 40 EFI from any deep cycle group 27+. It is not recommended unless it is a “dual purpose” but it will be fine for checking this issue.
Couldn’t I also just check voltage with a multi-meter? What range of volts would I be looking for?
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Couldn’t I also just check voltage with a multi-meter? What range of volts would I be looking for?
12.7 is full charge….test after the battery has been off the charger for 24hrs
Results of battery test.
after a days use w/ electronics on: 12.2V
after a days use w/o electronics on: 12.4V
immediately after full charge w/ elecs on: 12.4V (and one of the H’birds gave me a “low voltage” warning.
immediately after full charge w/o elecs on: 12.85V
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Couldn’t I also just check voltage with a multi-meter? What range of volts would I be looking for?
No!
Voltage is only part of the equation. You need a load tester to test the battery’s ability to deliver amps. You can have 12.6 volts at 1 amp or 1200 amps. Big difference.
Addition: You can test an alternator just by seeing if it’s delivering voltage, but to know if a battey is good, you have to go to a place that can load test it.
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