Lead core and crawler harnesses

I am looking for help on depth control for crawler harnesses and leadcore. #18Sufix 832 is what I am running with 6ft harnesses. How many colors are needed at 1-1.5mph to reach 5ft, 10ft, 15ft and so on?

6-7 ft per color – at that speed closer to the 7 ft

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I am looking for help on depth control for crawler harnesses and leadcore. #18Sufix 832 is what I am running with 6ft harnesses. How many colors are needed at 1-1.5mph to reach 5ft, 10ft, 15ft and so on?

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A lot will depend on the size of the blade your fishing in that scenario. I’ve been running about 8′ per color trolling at 2.2 MPH. 832 Advanced Leadcore is going to be less speed sensitive than traditional lead core given the thin diameter but I would think you’ll see a minimum of 8′ a color unless you are using huge blades in your harness.

Can you use crawler harnesses with lead core, never heard of that?

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Can you use crawler harnesses with lead core, never heard of that?

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Yes. Lead core is very, very versatile. Cranks for walleyes, spoons for trout and salmon… crawler harnesses.

Ok, one follow up question…I am having a tough time with cranks, how to use them and when to use them. There are so many to choose from…What are your favorite cranks to use with lead core and when it comes to 3-waying cranks, which are the best to use with that application. Trying to get to the point where at least I have the right crank matched for the right set up. Thanks for the help!

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Ok, one follow up question…I am having a tough time with cranks, how to use them and when to use them.

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Favorite cranks for Lead Core: Deep diving Rapala Shad Raps and Salmos.
Size will vary depending on the time of year or what seems to be working best.

Favorite for 3-way would be Rapala original floaters in size 5-9, Husky Jerk in size 6-8, or Flat Raps size 6-8.

These are my “starting point” baits.

Basically Lead Core will work best areas that you can do longer runs and does not have drastic depth changes or sharp turns. Lead is a bit more difficult to fish slower 1 mph.
3-Ways are best for speeds .1 to 2 mph and are much easier to keep near the bottom when you are changing depths rapidly.

Going back to the original post question….if your running blades in less than 10′ I personally would not use lead core. Allow your speed and amount of line out to determine the depth of your crawler harness. Remember you want the crawler harness to be above those fish to get them to react to a passing colorful buffet of worms. In fishing crawler harness behind boards I would often times let out 40-45′ of line attach board and keep speed as close to 1mph as possible when targeting fish in the 5-7′ range, as you slow down the rig will sink and increase speed the rig will rise. Also depends on what size blades your using.

I prefer this method vs leadcore as you would have to segment your leadcore as you do not want to attach leadcore to a board, if your not using boards then you would be fine to utilize the lead to reach the depth you wanted. Don’t forget about your mono or braid lead to your leadcore as that will aid in adding to depth as well.

This is a fun way to target fish, trial and error is a great learning tool as well. Good thing you are in Wisconsin as you can use 2 lines to shorten your learning curve, here in MN long process with only 1 line.

Good luck

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I am looking for help on depth control for crawler harnesses and leadcore. #18Sufix 832 is what I am running with 6ft harnesses. How many colors are needed at 1-1.5mph to reach 5ft, 10ft, 15ft and so on?

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An excellent technique to start learning crawler harnesses with a minimal amount of new gear to buy (especially when you can run 2 lines per person) is to set two lines at the front of the boat to run on bottom using a 3-way rig and large weight (1 oz per 10′ of depth is a simple formula for choosing weight size) then you can long line two additional harnesses at the rear of the boat. For water depths 10′ or less I would use no weight or just a small slip sinker (1/8 oz) on the long line to get it 75′ or more back. This works great for trolling along the outside edge of a weedline. Then as you head out to deeper water you will use leadcore to get your longline set-ups down to the proper depths – This works great for fishing deeper structure such as mud flats etc. This technique can also be used for open water trolling where the two 3-way lines can be set on or just above bottom to catch the bottom hugging fish while the depth long lines can be controlled using leadcore by watching you electronics looking for the depthe of suspended fish.

As you start to become familiar with this approach (and especially if you are seeing good results on your long lines) you can start to add boards into the mix.

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Ok, one follow up question…I am having a tough time with cranks, how to use them and when to use them. There are so many to choose from…What are your favorite cranks to use with lead core and when it comes to 3-waying cranks, which are the best to use with that application. Trying to get to the point where at least I have the right crank matched for the right set up. Thanks for the help!

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My best advice here would be to try and match your cranks to the available baitfish. As a general rule however when I’m fishing breaklines and/or structure I typically fish smaller crankbaits to replicate small shiner or perch type minnows (#5 shad raps are my favorite) whereas when I’m fishing suspended fish in the open basin I prefer large baits (#11 Taildancers or Deep Thundersticks) because these fish are typically chasing tullibies. Bright colors work best in sunny conditions and natural colors often work better for overcast or low light conditions.