24v Wiring Question

  • micah-witham
    Richfield
    Posts: 604
    #1281399

    Has anyone seen this kind of switch or do you have it in your boat?
    It has 3 positions, up is the Charge 2-12v, guessing middle is off, & down is 12-12v Run. Usually I can figure out how the wiring works with common sense but this one has me scratching my head.
    The second pic shows the back and basically there’s two hot(red) and two black(neg) wires that run back to the battery well. One red wire has the white stripe/candy cane look as does one of the black wires.
    The two striped wires are connected to the 12-24vRun position and the two solid colors are connected at the “off” position.
    Any thoughts would be helpful.
    In the end I’m running a 24v 80lb Terrova.

    Wondering if I should just bypass this switch and go straight my trolling motor plug with a red and black from the battery with the minnkota 60amp breaker on the red line somewhere between the battery and the motor.

    Aaron
    Posts: 245
    #1156062

    I run the same trolling motor on my boat, with no switch like that. Its wired direct with a fuse. It looks like just switch that just cuts power to your electronics when charging then select the middle for 12v load and all the way down for 24v load. I would be able to tell more by seeing where the wires go.
    In my opinion I would wire it direct, mine has worked fine for the last couple years and that switch is just one more thing that could malfunction on the water. Do you have an I-pilot system for it? I have one for sale?

    micah-witham
    Richfield
    Posts: 604
    #1156067

    that’s kind of what I was thinking in bypassing the switch.
    I actually bumped up and got the ipilot link system with a 798SI DI combo unit.
    pretty excited about it. my electronics cost 2x what the boat cost me over xmas so she’s a perfect river boat for how I like to fish.
    Now if I can just seal up the leaks where it takes in water and make a few tweaks!

    mark-bruzek
    Two Harbors, MN
    Posts: 3875
    #1156071

    That was a set up to make the plug either a 12v or a 24v.
    As mentioned I would eliminate the switch and jump wires.
    Run the wires straight from the plug in to the 24v source with a 60amp breaker on the hot wire.

    Less points of failure the better.

    Jim Kissinger
    Markesan WI
    Posts: 123
    #1156164

    please please please get rid of that switch. we have had over heating problems with that switch it cant handle the load with the newer terrovas. wire direct. the wires look like they need to be replaced with heavier wire too. check with your dealer about the load capacity you need or Minnkota has a chart that u can follow

    jerad
    Otranto, IA/Hager City, WI
    Posts: 616
    #1156209

    Hey mnm, click on the flashing envelope at the top of the screen, you have a PM.

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