Lead core ?

Not positive to what your driving at but most great lakes fisherman have many set ups of leadcore 2 colors, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 10 colors (all different rod and reels) 2 colors are actually run off the bottom riggers (called SWR’s secret weapon rigs) or can be run off high boards if the fish are at the surface, the others are run off boards with the highest lines to the outside and deeper closer to the boat.
Many times my most effective rod is the 10 color straight out the back.

Suppose you could but your adding another possible weak link… I would just run a small swivel at the end of your lead and tie on new leaders when you need them.

Ditto on the new leader here also.

I use the set up described by Luv2rapala also. I especially like lead core on my board; much better than trying to dive off of boards. I also use it flat, especially in the dark on both superior and michigan.

The 320s will work as well as Daiwa 175s ?and? Shimano 200s. I’ve not found too much benefit to line counters, especially when you can get the above reels for $25 on ebay nearly brand new, most times. When you are setting up 5-15 rod/reel combos, it starts to matter. Then, you decide to take a buddy along and crap, where do you put all the gear??? Barely room for coffee…

Multiple lead core set up won’t happen as of now, I’m planning on setting maybe two lines up and that’s it, I have enough stuff to get to the depths I need with out multiple lead core lines and cost.

I don’t care for lead, but figure it probably has enough good points to try.
Also appears maybe the newer lead core doesn’t feel like cable and might be easier to deal with.

I can run a swivel off the lead with several length leaders to use, would be one less joint, thanks.

What I’m trying to do is vary the length of my leader and use that to both set line out and line depth.

Say I have 10 colors on for a total of appox 70 foot depth, and I want to run only 40 foot down, I can add a longer leader and only let 6 colors out and be close to 40 foot.

Using the longer leader option I can set the distance of where I want my lures to run from the boat.

Makes sense I hope?

Al

I’ve never been able to find a swivel that is thin enough to fit through my rod tips / level wind bales. I Use 50′ mono leaders to start with and I likely replace them when the get too short. For instance if I’m hitting bottom with a Deep Diver on 3 colors on ML I’ll shorten the leader by to 20′. I then retie a 50′ 10lb XT back at the dock at the end of the day.

Quote:

---

I’ve never been able to find a swivel that is thin enough to fit through my rod tips / level wind bales. I Use 50′ mono leaders to start with and I likely replace them when the get too short. For instance if I’m hitting bottom with a Deep Diver on 3 colors on ML I’ll shorten the leader by to 20′. I then retie a 50′ 10lb XT back at the dock at the end of the day.

---

Haven’t tried the swivel through the guides thing yet, but some say they get it to work, worse case I’ll just retie a different leader on, maybe.

Been looking at knots and it appears the Willis knot is not only strong, but easy to remember.

Changing leaders without swivels looks pretty easy now.

Al

I think that if the Willis knot works for you that is the one. I use back to back Uniknots myself.
I’ll get ahold of you soon & we can [censored] about the weather & compare notes on fishing & scoots.

double unis or willis for me. no swivels.broken too many tips with a 25+ #er on to trust them anymore…
maybe for walleyes…

Sounds good Stu, seems like a disaster waiting to happen, so I’ll use a knot instead.

Me and uni knots don’t seem to get along, we can get together for a beer and burger and you can teach me..

Willis knot looked like even I could get it done.
Thanks all.

Al

I mis-spoke, i use the albright for my LC setups. With LC you need to strip the lead in the middle out prior to tieing the knot. Then you slide the leader up INSIDE the LC Sheath.

Well, that works with mono or other stiff leaders, but is problematic with braid leaders, which i prefer.

So I tested the Albright for strength and it was fine, with or without the core stripped.

I also tested the double uni and it was fine, but was difficult to tie unless the core was stripped, so i use it on shore now. Bouncing boat=albright.

Quote:

---

I mis-spoke, i use the albright for my LC setups. With LC you need to strip the lead in the middle out prior to tieing the knot. Then you slide the leader up INSIDE the LC Sheath.

Well, that works with mono or other stiff leaders, but is problematic with braid leaders, which i prefer.

So I tested the Albright for strength and it was fine, with or without the core stripped.

I also tested the double uni and it was fine, but was difficult to tie unless the core was stripped, so i use it on shore now. Bouncing boat=albright.

---

I’ll just be using mono Stu and it looks like the willis knot is the easist of the good knots.

I’ve had eagles build homes in the nests I get tying a double uni..

Al

Allen
were you at Brad’s meeting with us last week?
he explained his set up for deep trolling. I’d use double uni’s, and I can show you at the next meeting.
Not hard to learn, and you can tie any diameter to just about any diameter line, mono or braid.
If you want 40 feet down, it depends on the depth of your lure and what it can get to on a 50 foot leader- say 12 feet on that leader. That leaves you with 28 more feet to get down with the LC to get to 40 feet. At about 5 feet per color that would be just over 5 1/2 colors to get your lure to 40 foot level. IF you had a line counter add 50 foot leader to 5 1/2 colors (30 feet per color), and that would be right around 215 feet from the lure.
Make sense? see me at our next meeting.
Jack

Quote:

---

Allen
were you at Brad’s meeting with us last week?
he explained his set up for deep trolling. I’d use double uni’s, and I can show you at the next meeting.
Not hard to learn, and you can tie any diameter to just about any diameter line, mono or braid.
If you want 40 feet down, it depends on the depth of your lure and what it can get to on a 50 foot leader- say 12 feet on that leader. That leaves you with 28 more feet to get down with the LC to get to 40 feet. At about 5 feet per color that would be just over 5 1/2 colors to get your lure to 40 foot level. IF you had a line counter add 50 foot leader to 5 1/2 colors (30 feet per color), and that would be right around 215 feet from the lure.
Make sense? see me at our next meeting.
Jack

---

Ya I was Jack, took lots of notes too, but I’m looking to try LC on Superior.
Lot more depth possible and lot more leader.

Al

I have been running lead core line for years for Walleyes and I usually run spliced in line sections 2,3,4 color for instance. I always run a leader of 30 feet and I use both flourocarbon and fireline and I attach my leader to the lead by simply tying an overhand knot in the lead core trimming off the excess folding the line over and tying my leader on with an improved clinch knot sliding the clinch knot down to the knot on the lead core sinching the clinch knot tight and that is it I have never once had this line to line connection fail me and it is very easy and safe to run right through your rod guides.

Paul Delaney

http://www.lateeyessportfishing.com

i would think this would be an excellent knot. I’ll have to try it also. i presume you tie the overhand AROUND the leader, correct??

Still sounds like two knots being tied.

here’s the Willis one, one simple knot does it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge0VCeJOdc4

Only question I can see is will 12-15# mono go easily back into the leadcore once the lead section is removed??

Al

I tie an overhand knot in the leadcore creating a bump in the line then I take my leader line whether it is flouro or fireline then just tie the clinch knot around the leadcore then cinch it down slide it down to the bump in the line and cinch it really tight it is very simple and like I said it has never failed me try it once I know you will find it is very easy and very effective. Good luck and tight lines.

Paul Delaney
http://www.lateeyessportfishing.com