I’m contemplating fishing through much of the winter in harbors or rivers that don’t freeze. That being said, I won’t winterize my boat if I decide to do this. What are the potential consequences?? I have a 2012 125 Opti and a 2012 9.9 Merc 4 stroke.
I don’t want to risk hurting my motors for what might amount to 3 or4 trips throughout the winter. Of course, I would add Sta-Bil to the gas regardless. What do you think?
If it were me, I’d still pick a day to change the lower unit oil. And as long as you are running Stabil or some other fuel treatment/preservative, you will be fine.
Should be fine, I usually will change the lower unit before winter just to make sure that there is no water in them, other than that, as long and you use them a couple times over the winter you should be fine. Remember to lower motors when you pull out of the water and start the motor for a little bit to blow out water in the cooling system.
If i can get into open water, I fish with my bassboat year round. Make sure you have all your plumbing drained the best that you can. I made a rubber fitting to go on the end of an air nozzle to blow out livewell lines. Most motors will drain well. Just make sure you drop the motor down and let it drain before putting on the transom saver. Bottom line is to make sure you get as much water out as possible. Plus, remember a frozen deck in a boat is pretty dam slick. Had a few close calls. Pic is from January 5th, 2012! Though, we had a very mild winter last year.
FYI – A couple bags of salt and sand will go a LONG ways at the ramp!
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Should be fine, I usually will change the lower unit before winter just to make sure that there is no water in them, other than that, as long and you use them a couple times over the winter you should be fine. Remember to lower motors when you pull out of the water and start the motor for a little bit to blow out water in the cooling system.
Running your motors for just a few seconds with no water in the impeller water pumps can hurt the pumps. I crank mine over, but with the dead man switch pulled, so the motors crank and clear themselves (they are lowered) but don’t spark & fire.
That’s what a fella told me as well. It only takes seconds for heat to build up.
I’m not sold on damaging the motors, but turning them over with the kill switch off is a much better (and more safe) option in my book.
There’s no reason to add Sta-bil if you’re still using the boat. Sta-bil is a fule stabilizer for longer term storage. Adding Sta-bil just to burn it up doesn’t make sense.
I’ve noticed this trend where many seem to feel a compulsion to constantly adding Stabil, Seafoam, Gunk, Goo, Gop, snake oil, maple suryp and all manner of other stuff to fuel at every fill. One thing that’s never brought up is the fact that constantly running this crap through your engine could actually be harming it.
Your engine was NOT designed to be running with constant doses of additives that are not normally found in gasoline. No engine manufacturers are testing engine components for long term resistance to all this stuff that these guys are adding all the time.
As I’ve said before, if you need to put additives in your fuel every time to make your engine run right, fix your outboard. Take it to someone who knows what they’re doing and get it to run like it was designed to run–on gasoline.
As others have mentioned, make sure you blow out the livewell and bilge hoses so they don’t burst. I have heard of guys using plumber’s putty to seal up the inlet and outlet of the livewell.
Grouse
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If i can get into open water, I fish with my bassboat year round. Make sure you have all your plumbing drained the best that you can. I made a rubber fitting to go on the end of an air nozzle to blow out livewell lines. Most motors will drain well. Just make sure you drop the motor down and let it drain before putting on the transom saver. Bottom line is to make sure you get as much water out as possible. Plus, remember a frozen deck in a boat is pretty dam slick. Had a few close calls. Pic is from January 5th, 2012! Though, we had a very mild winter last year.
FYI – A couple bags of salt and sand will go a LONG ways at the ramp!
Also good to have a few sizes of outer clothing to layer up…like the picture shows…2XL undies, 3XL sweatshirt/vest, 4XL Parka… I need to save for a Snosuit!!! 
All good tips… one covered before is if it is dead cold out, when you first drop your boat in, it may take a while to start peeing water. Thermostat…. I and others have freaked out after not getting that flow… and in cold temps, it can take a while. Just let everything warm up slowly.
I also block off all drains and intakes to keep all the water out. Luckily I have a garage for winter storage with heat. When that wasn’t available I would take in anchor lines to dry as well. Nothing worse that going to use it, and it is a block of ice, and even good rope will hold some moisture long enough to freeze if it is very cold.
Others may have another ideal… but I make sure to dry the trolling motor right away… and a little WD40 to displace water doesn’t hurt at all.
On the stabile use…. I disagree with “not” adding it. If your trips are short as they often are in winter, your gas will essentially be sitting all winter. Treat it accordingly. I do it any time I expect extended down time.
Not really anything to winterize on a 4 stroke other than checking for water in the lower unit and makeing sure there is no water in the other lines. Its only going to sit a few months at best and MN winters are very dry. Starting the motor for a couple seconds wont hurt your impellar as there will be a little water to lube it but its also easy and not a bad idea to pull the kill switch as it turns slower. Pluging the livewell intakes on the outside/rear of the boat will make life easier.
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There’s no reason to add Sta-bil if you’re still using the boat. Sta-bil is a fule stabilizer for longer term storage. Adding Sta-bil just to burn it up doesn’t make sense.
Grouse
This is right from a Yamaha owners manual:
Yamaha recommends the use of two Yamaha gasoline additives to reduce internal deposits and extend the storage life of gasoline. Continuous use of Yamaha Ring Free Fuel Additive Plus reduces harmful internal deposits. Yamaha Fuel Stabilizer & Conditioner Plus added to fresh gasoline will help protect the fuel system from varnishing while helping to keep the gasoline’s octane level from decreasing excessively during storage. Other additives may also be available on the market that may have varying degrees of effectiveness.
Stabil can be used at many times the recommended strength and still not do any harm to your engine.
It’s never going to hurt your engine by adding stabil with every fill up at the gas station. Chances are, it could help save your engine from getting clogged up sooner or later due to unplanned down time in your rig.
Who knows when an accident or other life adventures will keep you from getting your rig on the water. Adding Stabil is a pretty safe bet just in case you end up not being able to go fishing for an extended period of time and won’t harm your engine one bit if you do burn thru that tank of gas in no time flat.
More and more marine mechanics in my area are recommending treating your gas with every fill, regardless of how often you use your boat.
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If i can get into open water, I fish with my bassboat year round. Make sure you have all your plumbing drained the best that you can. I made a rubber fitting to go on the end of an air nozzle to blow out livewell lines. Most motors will drain well. Just make sure you drop the motor down and let it drain before putting on the transom saver. Bottom line is to make sure you get as much water out as possible. Plus, remember a frozen deck in a boat is pretty dam slick. Had a few close calls. Pic is from January 5th, 2012! Though, we had a very mild winter last year.
FYI – A couple bags of salt and sand will go a LONG ways at the ramp!
I use salt in the livewells never had a problem with cracked hoses or pumps. I never winterize but I also use stabil year round…I think all motors run better with it in, especially smaller motors.
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