Springboarding off of a good idea by another forum member, I thought I’d ask for recommendations here.
Our asphalt driveway is shot. Resurfacing isn’t going to cut it, it’s time for replacement I’m afraid. Unfortunately, the driveway is 75 feet long and two cars wide. Yeah, it isn’t going to be pretty.
Anyone have recommendations for good and reliable companies to get bids from near St. Paul, Maplewood, eastern burbs?
Thanks.
Grouse
I need a slab about 5″ by 20″ in front of my garage where the ground has settled and the asphalt collapsed. My neighbor needs one too for his 3 car width garage…..maybe he can buy one and I can get one free!!!!
We are in Eagan and might be a month or two away from pulling the trigger.
Pine Bend Paving 
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Springboarding off of a good idea by another forum member, I thought I’d ask for recommendations here.
Our asphalt driveway is shot. Resurfacing isn’t going to cut it, it’s time for replacement I’m afraid. Unfortunately, the driveway is 75 feet long and two cars wide. Yeah, it isn’t going to be pretty.
Anyone have recommendations for good and reliable companies to get bids from near St. Paul, Maplewood, eastern burbs?
Thanks.
Grouse
Your absolute best deal will be to watch the neighborhood for another project being done. Catch them while they have all there men and equipment there. Have your homework (know what it should cost) done and have CASH in hand.
Just a thought with high price of asphalt ac oil you can almost get concrete put in 
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Just a thought with high price of asphalt ac oil you can almost get concrete put in
X2
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I need a slab about 5″ by 20″ in front of my garage where the ground has settled and the asphalt collapsed. My neighbor needs one too for his 3 car width garage…..maybe he can buy one and I can get one free!!!!
We are in Eagan and might be a month or two away from pulling the trigger.
Go Thicker & Longer!
Make sure when you get it done to either have the Slab resting on the Garage Foundation Wall or Tied into the Garage Floor Slab with Smooth Reinforcing Rods Epoxy into the Garage Slab and then with a plastic Bond Breaker covering the Rods to allow Horizontal Movement. Also place expansion Joint Material between the Garage Slab and your Apron Slab to keep them from bonding and ending up with major future cracking.
Not having the Slab rest on the Foundation Wall or being tied into the Garage Slab will leave you in the same boat (Settlement) 5-10 years from now. I would suggest your Apron be at least 4ft out from the Garage Slab although the best bet would be make it 10ft.
Overall for any driveway, I would recommend going ALL CONCRETE DRIVEWAY with a Minimum 10ft Apron Slab. (Although the business owners don’t like it, many of the Asphalt Paving (CREW) Guys will tell you to go with Concrete). Build any driveway at least 5-inches thick, 6-inches would be better (thicken to 8-inches 1st 10-ft from curb) with 2-layers of steel reinforcing mesh (this makes sure you get at least 1-layer into the concrete). I built my parents driveway 6-inches thick minimum with double mesh in 1978. Result is no cracks now even after being 34-years old.
A normal 2”-3” Asphalt driveway will leave you wishing you went thicker or with concrete. Asphalt with settle leave depressions wherever your tires sit after a few years.
I have been working with many road & bridge contractors for over 30 years in the Civil Engineering Design & Inspection side of construction.
PS: #1 recommendation, Make sure you get positive slope/drainage off and away from your driveway.
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I have been working with many road & bridge contractors for over 30 years in the Civil Engineering Design & Inspection side of construction.
I would have guessed you worked for a concrete company or a wire mesh company based on your recommendation of 6 inches thick (8 inches by the road) and 2 layers of mesh. The recommended thickness on residential driveways is 4 inches. If your planning on driving heavy equipment on them, maybe a little thicker.
I second Pine Bend Paving–since I work for them!!! Im me if need phone number
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I have been working with many road & bridge contractors for over 30 years in the Civil Engineering Design & Inspection side of construction.
I would have guessed you worked for a concrete company or a wire mesh company based on your recommendation of 6 inches thick (8 inches by the road) and 2 layers of mesh. The recommended thickness on residential driveways is 4 inches. If your planning on driving heavy equipment on them, maybe a little thicker.
Nope, I don’t work for a concrete or mesh supplier, nor have any financial interest in any of those companies, just like seeing quality work.
I’ve seen many a 4″ Driveway Crack, No Cracks in the 5″ or thicker. A 4″ thickness may work as long as you make sure you get thicker edges and at the street and make sure your reinforcing is up in the concrete, not laying flattened on the base. Adding extra Mesh is cheap compared to relacing or having ugly cracks. I’ve. seen maany a lazy delivery or garbage truck use a residential driveway as a turnaround and watch them crack?
The Entry apron off the street should match the curb thickness and then taper to your running thickness.
See Mn/DOT’s Standard Detail: Mn/DOT Std. Driveway & Sidewalk Detail
With Asphalt you have maintenance every few years and again with Asphalt, Thicker is better and get it compacted properly on top of a good aggregate base. Going cheap/low bid will usually cost you more in the long run.
If you go with Asphalt, make sure you have a 1 1/2% cross slope or grade. This will benefit you in keeping it dry and after years of service when you get tire depressions or rutting, there should still be enough slope to drain without getting little bird baths. These area will eventually weaken the asphalt as the water seeps through and then in winter you’ll get frost heaving and cracks.
Good Luck.
PS: While going to the expense, suggest to the F.W. about adding a Stain in the mix to have a nice colored concrete. It will make yours driveway stand out from the crowd when you go to sell and does not cost much extra. 
Get a bid from ACI out of maple grove,They are doing work for the company I work for and would reccomend them without hesitating.
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——————————————————————————–I have been working with many road & bridge contractors for over 30 years in the Civil Engineering Design & Inspection side of construction.
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I would have guessed you worked for a concrete company or a wire mesh company based on your recommendation of 6 inches thick (8 inches by the road) and 2 layers of mesh. The recommended thickness on residential driveways is 4 inches. If your planning on driving heavy equipment on them, maybe a little thicker.
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I’m sure Mn Dot standards aren’t as concerned about the additional costs that most residential contractors need to consider. I’m only stating that the driveways I’ve seen poured around the Twin Cities are typically 4 inches thick. I can also say I’ve never seen a slab poured with 2 layers of mesh on any residential job I’ve worked on. I don’t doubt it would be strong as heck if you did it that way.
I’m sure Mn Dot standards aren’t as concerned about the additional costs that most residential contractors need to consider. I’m only stating that the driveways I’ve seen poured around the Twin Cities are typically 4 inches thick. I can also say I’ve never seen a slab poured with 2 layers of mesh on any residential job I’ve worked on. I don’t doubt it would be strong as heck if you did it that way.
Oh boy, more concrete talk, you know how I feel about mesh Kirk. LOL Good luck fishing.
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Oh boy, more concrete talk, you know how I feel about mesh Kirk. LOL Good luck fishing.
Too funny Mike. 
Good luck to you too.
Custom Asphalt out of Hastings does nice work too
651-437-6870
Someone mentioned aci…..never ever go with them if you want a patch job half bassed.
In our community we priced out concrete and went in with neighbors. 5 homes, one day. That is the way to go. The company i used is in the west metro.
I will always go with concrete. If done right. Your asphalt drives with seal coating equals the same for a concrete driveway.
Appreciate all the feedback guys.
Concrete is out because, simply put, this is a curb appeal job to increase the saleability of the house.
We have a 1937 dutch colonial in Maplewood on a large lot. We have added on over 700 sq feet and totally rennovated everything in the last 5-7 years, obviously presrving the original detail, coved celings, very nice hardwood, plasterwork, clawfoot tub, etc.
Except the driveway.
At a guess, I’d say it was done in the 1970s. I’ve sealcoated it several times, but the bottom line is it’s shot and I think only a replacement is going to work. Otherwise, I’m afraid people driving up will be hung up this curb appeal aspect and it’ll bias them against an otherwise fully rennovated house.
Grouse
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