Rewiring a boat?

i am compleatly rewiring my boat. i am just wonder if any one has any tips on how to do it. and what stuff i will to buy along with a good place to but it at?

what type of boat; and what all are you wiring?
I personally run a gauge heavier than needed. and a much heavier ground wire. All the wire I buy has the oil/gas resistant jacket. I don’t think it is always needed and more of a piece of mind. Set up all your fuses in an organized and easy access manor. Buy the Exterior grade ty-wraps – not the cheap white ones. The indoor cheapies will get brittle and break over time. I’m a fan od soldering and shrink tubing for sealed connections.

Randyx2.
On my grounds, I actually go 2x heavier than needed. Your biggest concern is corrosion, so sealing all joints is important.

Quote:

---

I’m a fan of soldering and shrink tubing for sealed connections.

---

x2

If you don’t solder & shrink wrap, buy the marine butt-splice connectors. They shrink and have a hot-melt glue in them so once you crimp, you heat it and it seals the connection water-tight. I just used some on a connection that I couldn’t conveniently solder and was quite impressed with them.

Quote:

---

If you don’t solder & shrink wrap, buy the marine butt-splice connectors. They shrink and have a hot-melt glue in them so once you crimp, you heat it and it seals the connection water-tight.

---

+1 on Randy’s advice and Ralph’s comment about waterproof butt splice connectors.

The only thing I’d add is consider making it easy to change components that get upgraded or need to be replaced over time by adding a plug instead of hard wiring them.

I bought some nifty two lead plugs from Radio Shack and I added these to my depth finders and to my livewell and bilge pumps.

This way, changing out any of these components involves just a screwdriver to move one end of the plug from the old unit to the new. Then plug it back into the lead. No wire cutting, no crimping, etc. Plug it back in and you’re up and running again.

You can do something similar with “bullet” connectors, but then you’ll need to do a crimp connection to put a new connection on the new component. It still saves some time.

As a side-benefit, these plugs provide a convenient test point so if something stops working, you can unplug it and use a tester to instantly verify if the circuit is energized or not.

Obviously these plugs need to be kept up away from standing water and so forth to avoid corrosion, but IMO this is a worthy compromise because it’s so much easier to swap out components.

Grouse

Quote:

---

I bought some nifty two lead plugs from Radio Shack and I added these to my depth finders and to my livewell and bilge pumps.

---

I have one of those plugs on my front finder, but never thought of using them for pumps, etc. Great idea

Where did you pick these up at?? Any chance Meanrds or FF are carrying them??

Quote:

---

i am just wonder if any one has any tips on how to do it.

---

Ok, this may be obvious. Use the old wires to pull the new wires through whatever compartments or tubing you are going through.

-J.

Quote:

---

Where did you pick these up at?? Any chance Meanrds or FF are carrying them??

---

If memory serves me correctly, I bought them from Radio Shack in the Har-Mar Mall. Not sure if that’s even still there.

Never looked at Menards or Fleet.

The ones I have are nifty because you pull back the rubber “skirt” and the wires attach with screw terminals. That way you don’t have to do crips and the whole operation involves only a screwdriver.

Even if you used bullet connecters, it’s better and easier when you have to replace something.

Grouse

I use a plug like this that I bought at a hardware store. I just soldered and shrink-wrapped it where needed.

http://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24267

Use different colors for every run or paired.
LABEL EVERY RUN AT EACH END.

Get a blue sea fuse block and some wire from genuinedealz. The wire is awesome and doesn’t cost that much.

Quote:

---

Get a blue sea fuse block and some wire from genuinedealz. The wire is awesome and doesn’t cost that much.

---

Yep very good pricing on their wire and their delivery is 2 or 3 days. And it is Marine grade wiring.

I used 8 gauge wire from battery to fuse box then 14 gauge from fuse box to what ever needs power.

A few links to help figure boat amp draw and Voltage Drop Calculator.

Voltage Drop Calculator

Determining your boat’s amp draw

Change to LED if you don’alreay have them.Put rubber bushings were wire goes thru anything.