I am looking to replace some old storage cabinets in my boat, but am having trouble locating Marine Plywood. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I should look for getting some??? 
February 20, 2012 at 12:21 am
#1275880
Locating Marine Plywood Baord
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February 20, 2012 at 12:43 am #1040706
both Overtons and West Marine have Marine grade plywood.
February 20, 2012 at 12:55 am #1040710I do believe Menards has it also.
February 20, 2012 at 1:26 am #1040713I believe Menards can order it for you, I don’t think they stock it.
February 20, 2012 at 1:28 am #1040714This is where I got my 3/4 marine grade.
February 20, 2012 at 2:42 am #1040728There is a place in st Bonni off hwy 92 and hwy 7 that has marine plywood in stock. One of the only places in the state that does.
February 20, 2012 at 3:03 am #1040733ben-
the standard for MGPW used to be 60#, then it dropped to 45#, then 40# and last i heard (albeit in ’84) it was 35#.You will want to RESIN COAT what ever wood you are going to use…
February 20, 2012 at 8:38 pm #1040993a good ac plywood will work just with a coating of resine
February 20, 2012 at 9:56 pm #1041015Quote:
a good ac plywood will work just with a coating of resine
Until you have to drill or screw into it…
February 21, 2012 at 1:51 am #1041148Quote:
Quote:
a good ac plywood will work just with a coating of resine
Until you have to drill or screw into it…
you lost me there,a good ac plywood that is sanded on both sides and a coated with resin is more then enough
February 21, 2012 at 2:27 am #1041174Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
a good ac plywood will work just with a coating of resine
Until you have to drill or screw into it…
you lost me there,a good ac plywood that is sanded on both sides and a coated with resin is more then enough
AC plywood is untreated plywood, with A grade on one side, C grade on the other with many voids and knotholes on the inside, which means it will do fine if coated with resin and set in place. But most parts on a boat are either screwed or riveted in place, which means you need to drill through the resin coating. When you break the seal of the resin and don’t seal it back up that will allow water in, and when water enters an organic material like wood rot occurs.
February 21, 2012 at 3:51 pm #1041348Another vote for Youngbloods.
More spendy than menards, but much better wood.
Al
February 21, 2012 at 5:27 pm #1041379I gutted and replaced all wood in a 14′ Smokercraft. Floor,rod locker,front locker/casting platform,bow plate and “glovebox” for mounting a TM…I spent somewhere under $200 for the plywood. The whole project – replace the floatation foam with 2 part expanding closed-cell expanding foam,2 coats of polyester epoxy for the wood,new carpet,replace the transom core and inner aluminum “skin” to the transom…rivets,screws…cost me about $1000. The whole project took me appx. 100 hours,including runnin’ to get stuff.
For that amount of time and money I had into it,I wasn’t going to risk cheaping-out somewhere to save $50.
Overkill is always better than “not good enough”…
Several lumberyards in the Milwaukee area carred MGPW.
Originally,Smokercraft had used CDX plywood “treated” with oil paint. That lasted 20 years but it was very rotten.
February 21, 2012 at 7:23 pm #1041420Quote:
I gutted and replaced all wood in a 14′ Smokercraft. Floor,rod locker,front locker/casting platform,bow plate and “glovebox” for mounting a TM…I spent somewhere under $200 for the plywood. The whole project – replace the floatation foam with 2 part expanding closed-cell expanding foam,2 coats of polyester epoxy for the wood,new carpet,replace the transom core and inner aluminum “skin” to the transom…rivets,screws…cost me about $1000. The whole project took me appx. 100 hours,including runnin’ to get stuff.
For that amount of time and money I had into it,I wasn’t going to risk cheaping-out somewhere to save $50.
Overkill is always better than “not good enough”…
Several lumberyards in the Milwaukee area carred MGPW.
Originally,Smokercraft had used CDX plywood “treated” with oil paint. That lasted 20 years but it was very rotten.
Ditto!
When I purchased my ’83 Lund back in ’97 I gutted it down to the framework and foam. Most of the plywood floor was starting to rot and soft in a few spots. Back then they used untreated redwood plywood(from what I could tell by what it looked and smelled like). I replaced it with high quality marine grade plywood. It has been 15 years now and is showing absolutely no signs of rot, and that is after forgetting the plug more than a few times and remembering it when the water is coming over the floor, fishing in the rain and snow quite often, storing outside and the cover coming loose in storms, not babying it, etc.
You can be a cheap @$$ and use the cheapest materials available, and it will probably look good for the first few years, but expect to replace it soon after. Or spend a few extra bucks and get the job done right and spend the time you saved not having to replace it again fishing.
February 21, 2012 at 7:50 pm #1041431I am installing a new 24 volt trolling motor on my boat and I need to use a piece of plywood to mount the dual battery tray and onboard battery charger onto. I need to use the plywood as the compartment for the batteries in the front isn’t quite flat enough with the curve of the boat. There is a piece of carpet in the compartment already which I planned to leave there and put the plywood on top of it. I only need about a 2′ x 2′ piece to do the job. I have a piece of 3/4″ treated plywood from 2005 stored in my garage that I was going to use. If I have the carpet between the wood and the alumininum hull, will that be ok? Will the carpet be enough separation from the aluminum?
February 22, 2012 at 3:24 am #1041601If you use marine plywood ,do you still need the resin coat ?
February 22, 2012 at 6:36 am #1041616Hey, i resemble that remark…
(watch out, you may step in it…)
February 22, 2012 at 6:40 am #1041617FMPOV, it depends on how long you want it to last:
1) floor, without question
2) side panels, i would
3) cabinet doors, well, of course if they are part of the floor silly…February 23, 2012 at 3:25 am #1041936Quote:
If you use marine plywood ,do you still need the resin coat ?
You can, but it isn’t needed. Like I said earlier, unless you seal all the holes you made for screws and such, water will still find a way to get in. I personally would rather have it unsealed so it can breath and dry out between soaks.
February 23, 2012 at 4:24 pm #1042067I’ve built about 20 boats over the years and i agree with Rob, but IF you are NOT going to get good drainage on a placement (it’s going to be under water for extended periods of time), then if you can’t go with non organic boards, double coat resin on both sides and seal your penetrations.
otherwise, single coat or even single side is fine. resin is VERY slippery with ice or water on it, so plan to fertilizer spreader clean pressure sand into it for traction.
goodluck. and i am following this post but not able to answer PMs on this one currently. sorry.
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