Winterizing your boat

This is my first year owning a boat. What are the things that absolutely must be done for winter and what are the things that are nice to do (but not necessary) like fogging the motor?

I have a 4 stroke so I change oil and change lower unit grease. I then remove each spark plug and shoot a 3 second burst of fogging oil in each and replace the spark plug. With the spark plug wires off, I turn the motor over for a second or two. Then replace all the spark plug wires. I remove all the batteries and store them in my basement. I also use a small shop vac to either blow or suck all the water lines on the live wells and water pumps.

Main things I do:
Inspect and repack/replace trailer bearings
Change lower unit lube
Make sure stabilized fuel has been run through the system
Fog
Remove batteries & electronics
Remove prop and check for fishing line on shaft
Dry out any residual water in lines, livewells, etc
Scatter some type of mouse repellant
Check tire inflation
Check trailer lights

Other things:
Vacuum
Wash hull
Grease all pivot points
Tighten all screws/bolts

Ralph’s list is one of the best i’ve seen. I want to 2X the fuel stabilization issue. Put twice as much in as recommended. Gummy carbs are the pits.

Fogging the motor is pretty important in my opinion. I would move it up on your priortiy list if I were you.

Thanks, guys.

Is it an absolute must to change the lower unit oil in the fall or can it be done in the spring?

Also, how important is it to run the fuel lines dry? I live in a townhouse and the water has already been shut off so I can’t really run the motor.

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Fogging the motor is pretty important in my opinion. I would move it up on your priortiy list if I were you.

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How easy or hard is that to do?

Sorry for all of the rookie questions, but this is my first time ever owning a boat and I don’t really have anyone reliable to ask other than you guys.

FWIW, the boat will be getting stored in an unheated pole barn over the winter.

Not sure of motor. If you have electric start and already ran it out of gas just pull the plug wires then turn it over while spraying fogging oil into air intake if you can access that. If you cannot access air intake then just pull the plugs, spray a generous amount in each hole and turn the engine over several times to distribute before replacing plugs. Better to do this through air intake if a two stroke because not only will jugs and pistons get coated but the crankshaft as well. Check lower unit. This year on all my outboards I pulled drain plug and let some out. There was no water contamination so I only drained a little bit then topped it off with new. I used to just change it every year but I dont think necessary. If you use boat a lot then just change it. Waiting till spring to check lower unit eliminates the possibility of you avoiding a potential water problem. It will have done its damage by then.

Lower unit oil must be changed before any water that got in there freezes and cracks your LU or seals. Drop the oil and drain and refill. It takes half an hour.

I would definitely change the LU lube. It’s not bad. Buy a pump for $8, though (it’s like the pump for a soap bottle, but it fits onto the lube bottle and screws into the lower unit). It makes it a whole lot easier.

What kind of motor? 2 or 4 stroke, carbed, DFI, EFI?

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Fogging the motor is pretty important in my opinion. I would move it up on your priortiy list if I were you.

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Bottom of the list for me unless you plan to store long term. Like 12-16 months or longer.

Top of the short list. Treat the gas. (Don’t run the carbs dry.) Change lower unit oil. Disconnect the battery.

-J.

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What kind of motor? 2 or 4 stroke, carbed, DFI, EFI?

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It’s an older 2 stroke. 50 hp Evinrude.

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It’s an older 2 stroke. 50 hp Evinrude.

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I assume carbs, then. Fogging might not be necessary, but it won’t hurt and makes me feel better.

Find an empty access and back in far enough to start the motor. Take off the airbox covering the carbs and start the motor up. Spray fogging oil into each carb with the motor running. It will want to die when you do this. Don’t let it die till you have sprayed each carb thoroughly. Then, spray till it dies. Replace the airbox and you are good to go!

Fair warning, it will be quite smoky if/when you do this.

If your not going to change the lower unit lube at least check to make sure there is no water in the lower unit! That is the most important! If you do decide to change it there is two screws on the lower unit take them both out to drain it, when filling it you fill from the bottom till it comes out of the top hole, then put the top screw in first followed by the bottom.

Fogging the motor is a fast and easy task you take your air cleaner cover off while the motor is running give her a shot threw each carb, it will smoke allot and bog down a bit when it does that shut her off.

Stabilize your fuel first before fogging it though that way it has a chance to run threw the system!

I removed the gas line between the tank and motor this year. Storing indoors/heated and out of the frigid temps of the storage unit. The inner liner cracked/shattered last year. Fragmented pieces contaimenated several parts under the hood including the injectors. Had me speaking “French” this past spring.

If you run your boat alot and charge your batteries each time out don’t forget to check the water level in the batteries. Low water levels due to charging alot will cause batteries when left in the cold to swell up.Always be sure they are fully charged and filled with distilled water when stored for the winter.Batteries when stored in the cold when not fully charged freeze or get a memorey and will not charge fully the next time charged.If your boat has a charger plug it in every once in awhile and you will be good to go batterie wise in the spring.Even turned off electronics still draw some juice,so top off and charge.BILL

I leave my batteries on a trickle charger for most of the winter. It seems to have extended battery life. Then again it might just make me feel better

In addition to Ralph’s list, I would add:

– With the motor in the water or connect a hose-end cooling connector. Start the motor and then disconnect the fuel line. Continue to run the motor until it dies.

Obviously this should be done before blowing/sucking all the remaining water out of the outboard.

Getting all the fuel out of the carb before winter, IMO, goes a long way toward easy start-up in the spring. Otherwise, the fuel in the float bowl evaporates and leaves behind the 2 stroke oil, which over time can create a gummy mess and potential carb issues.

Also, I would note that some of the items on Ralph’s list aren’t strictly necessary for winterization, IMO. It’s just a good time to do them as long as you’re out there with tools and you’ve got your hands dirty anyway. Trailer bearings, for example, don’t have a “winterizing” need.

BTW, Ralph, you aren’t really kissing that muskie in the picture, are you? I thought the DNR was trying to discourage that kind of thing.

Reminds me of an old joke:

Q: Do you ever smoke any of the fish you catch?
A: I did, but I found they were hard to light, they didn’t draw well, and my lips got slimey, so I quit smoking fish.

Grouse

Grouse

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BTW, Ralph, you aren’t really kissing that muskie in the picture, are you?

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It’s a sturgeon…and yes

And trailer bearings aren’t necessary in the fall, but I would rather get any water out of the hub before it sits an extended period of time in order to discourage any rust from forming.

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– With the motor in the water or connect a hose-end cooling connector. Start the motor and then disconnect the fuel line. Continue to run the motor until it dies.

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I would not do that on any newer motor. (4 stroke or HPDI type of injection.)

Personally, I would never recommend this proceedure on any motor.

-J.

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– With the motor in the water or connect a hose-end cooling connector. Start the motor and then disconnect the fuel line. Continue to run the motor until it dies.

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I would not do that on any newer motor. (4 stroke or HPDI type of injection.)

Personally, I would never recommend this proceedure on any motor.

-J.

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So what’s the best way to run the gas out?

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So what’s the best way to run the gas out?

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If you’ve stabilized your gas, I don’t feel that there is any need. I have never had an issue.

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So what’s the best way to run the gas out?

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I would recommend the proceedures outlined in your owners manual. Or contact the manufacturer for advice.

For instance, on my 150HP Mercury Optimax, there is a specific proceedure for removing gas from the system and storage proceedure.

http://www.mercurymarine.com/media/mercury/pdfs/service-and-support/storage-OptiMax.pdf

Each motor may be different. I know for Merc and Yami 2 stroke HPDI or Opti, NEVER run the gas dry. Bad things can happen like scoring the cylendar walls for example. I have been told this by multiple techs at multiple dealers for a lot of years.

You can run your old 1977 9.9 hp motor dry no problem. Not on the newer motors. (Like any motor with a computer on it)

If you go here:

http://www.mercurymarine.com/service-and-support/storage-and-maintenance/engines/outboards/

None of the storage proceedures for any Merc currently sold recommends running the motor dry. Use the proper gas treatment and you should be good to go.

-J.

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If you’ve stabilized your gas, I don’t feel that there is any need. I have never had an issue.

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X3…

Stabilize the fuel(I have had more issues over the years with a dry carb),disconnect the fuel lines and everything from the battery except the smart charger,change the lower unit oil.

I have never fogged my motor…..

I have a 2000 Johnson 50…..For the last 10 years it has been stored this way outside and it has fired up after about 10 revs every time in the spring….no troubles

You said 50hp Evinrude? E-TEC??????? E-TEC WILL SELF FOGG,
I have a 2011 50hp Evinrude E-Tec, use the fast Idle control..What year is yours??

My storage list goes like this: Put stabil in last 2 times I use it, change oil & filter, change lower unit oil, take prop off- check for fish line & put greease on splines, pack wheel bearings, blow out all water lines, leave engine down to drain all water out, plug in onboard charger. Your good to go come spring. I just sold this boat and motor and compression tested as good as new. Just my list that I have done for 8 years.

You guys have great ideas for winterizing!

Here’s another: just keep fishing in it all winter on Pool 4. No “winterizing” needed. That’s the plan!

so, I’ve run my 08’50hp mercury 2 stroke dry of fuel… What s I should I do now get fuel back in it? Run some stabilzed fuel thru it for awhile?

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– With the motor in the water or connect a hose-end cooling connector. Start the motor and then disconnect the fuel line. Continue to run the motor until it dies.

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I would not do that on any newer motor. (4 stroke or HPDI type of injection.)

Personally, I would never recommend this proceedure on any motor.

-J.

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I should have made it clear that this was in reference to the OP’s carbed two-stroke motor.

I know literally dozens of people who have been doing this for decades on carbed two strokes. Getting the fuel out of the float bowl so it does not evap and gum up the carb is a big help in easing start up in the spring.

If an Optimax can be damaged by running it out of fuel, I’d say that Mercury’s engineering is extremely dubious. With a 4 stroke, the engine continues to be lubercated even when it’s just the starter turning over the motor. Running it out of fuel would have no impact.

Grouse

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BTW, Ralph, you aren’t really kissing that muskie in the picture, are you?

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It’s a sturgeon…and yes

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OK, thanks for the clarification.

You just put walleyes back, don’t you? I mean, like without kissing them all? You know, other guys might catch them again and have to handle them.

Grouse