Do you remove a bolt that snapped off in the hole??
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How in the He!!
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June 30, 2011 at 11:10 am #977400
If it is not too rusted , a device called a easyout can work. Basically you drill a hole into broken bolt and pound in easyout, and turn counter clockwise. device looks loike a muncked up drill bit.
Moores BaitPosts: 328June 30, 2011 at 11:12 am #977402Haven’t used one in a number of years, but they are called easy outs. What happens is you drill a hole in the droken bolt and as you tap (screw) in the easy out which is left handed threads, it puts pressure on the bolt and unscrews it. Sold at most hardware stores….Hope that helps
Moores BaitPosts: 328June 30, 2011 at 11:24 am #977409Thanks guys. Do you know how small they can go? Two bolts, really small broke off of a foot/calf massager on a massage chair.
June 30, 2011 at 11:48 am #977414Be a bit careful on pounding on a easyout, they are not mild steel.
If the hole is to small for a easy out (and they go pretty small) grind the top of the bolt flat if you can and try to drill a small hole down the center, use larger bits till your almost at the threads then use a pin punch to bend over part of the bolt, you should be able to use a small needle noosed pliers to grab that tab and unscrew.
Al
June 30, 2011 at 12:30 pm #977427What works really well if you have access to a welder is to get a flat washer with a hole a little smaller than the bolt and weld it to the bolt then weld a nut to the washer. Let it cool down then screw the bolt out with the nut you just welded on.Usually works the first time but sometimes on tough ones it can take a couple attempts
June 30, 2011 at 1:41 pm #977451A LH drill bit works great if they are not rusted in. You can find them in McMaster Carr.
June 30, 2011 at 2:04 pm #977457If it’s very small, Allen’s idea is best… and to take a step further, drill it all the way out and re-tap with a slightly larger bolt and eliminate the issue again next time
June 30, 2011 at 4:10 pm #977511Your right Glen and that always works the first time. The reason why is the quality of the easy outs steel. Over the counter easy outs break alot easier then the machine shop quality ones. If the easy out breaks in the hole you can’t drill that out, its too hard of steel, I’ve tried along with alot of other guys. Drilling and retaping is a sure bet the first time because the bolt is about the same hardness as the steel its threaded into.
June 30, 2011 at 5:03 pm #977536i’d go with the overbore also IF you have the extra material. the bolt is likely to be matched to the holding material for hardness, so the drilling should go pretty smoothly. the retapping is easy if the drilling goes smooth.
i’ve personally not been successful with an OTC Easy Out, but some mechanics will use PRO EasyOuts as their first stop.June 30, 2011 at 8:43 pm #977516If you have threads on top, you can put some extra strength super glue on the bottom of a new bolt and screw it down so it locks with the piece.. then unscrew them at once.
June 30, 2011 at 9:51 pm #977619Next time put a little heat to the nut or recepticle before you try to lossen it. It’s only 20 bucks,Mapp gas, does wonders.
July 1, 2011 at 4:04 pm #977823First you should spray some lube on the broken screw, let it soak down into the threads, and then use a left hand drill bit and run your drill in reverse direction. Use alot of down force to get the bit to dig into the remaining bolt material and hopefully it will back out of the hole.
There is another type of easy out called a “drill out” that works pretty good. You should be able to buy them at Ace Hdwe.
If you decide to use an easy out or the drill out, don’t drill the hole to big or when you put the easy out in it will just flare the remaining bolt out into the threads and will lock it into the threads even tighter.
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