Dipsy Rods

What are you guys using for dipsy rods and which ones should I avoid?

I’ve been meaning to get some real dipsy rods for Superior and I think now is the time. Keep in mind that I do not run down riggers. I do plan to run leadcore and planer boards.

Thanks!

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What are you guys using for dipsy rods and which ones should I avoid?

I’ve been meaning to get some real dipsy rods for Superior and I think now is the time. Keep in mind that I do not run down riggers. I do plan to run leadcore and planer boards.

Thanks!

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I’m still a rook when it comes to dipseys but what I’ve been using is the 9′ Shimano Talora Med. Dipsey rods. I got a pair of them from Dean at SBC and although it is hard to get excited about a foam handled rug-beater intended to pull dipseys… so far so good. And I do like the fact that they can pull double duty as a board rod when needed.

I’ll be very interested in hearing what others are using as well.

This is a good question, I run dipsys on Nipigon once or twice a year. I would like a cheaper rod for the same purpose.

Guys I know that run a lot of dipsys rave about the Shimano Talora’s. ive used them once myselft and was quite impressed. Cabelas depthmasters do make a nice cheap fix, but if you’re looking for something for long term use with a lifetime warranty, the Talora’s get my vote.

As always, get a hold of Dean and he’ll get you set up.

Cabelas also has a store brand dipsy rod that works well. I’d suggest getting rods made to run dipsies just because they put so much strain on things.

Something you may want to think about is the rod holder that will be holding one these critters. A dipsy pulling a bait down 40 feet or so is putting one heck of a load on the rod holder. Use quality products and check the moving parts and mounting hardware often to be certain things haven’t come loose or that the strain hasn’t cracked anything. Just a little experience talking here.

A lot of great replies guys. After looking on Cabelas website, the reviews for the Depthmaster has me looking elsewhere. The reviews said that they break when they run dipsys.

I live close to Thorne Bros and I think they have the Taloras so I may check them out first.

Now, I thought that the dipsy rod were long to gain some distance out to the side of the boat to get away from the down riggers. Is that the only reason they are so long? If so, can I get away with a shorter rod with the right action?

As far as rod holders, I run Scotty for my dipsy rods and don’t have any problems. My wife on the other hand has some trouble getting them out when there’s a fish on. I think I may need to get extensions for my holders to raise them up a bit.

Thanks!

I pretty much run wire dipsy’s most of the time now so I won’t comment on the best braid or mono dipsy rod.

As for the length of the rod, your definitely going to want a long rod for dipsy use. Long rods give you the advantage of using a longer leader. Doesn’t mean you have to run a long lead but it gives you that option.

Imagine having a 12′ lead behind you dipsy and trying to pull a big king salmon or lake trout to the net with an 8′ rod. Trying to control that fish behind the boat with a long rod can be hard enough. A short rod will only make it more difficult.

Good timing for you post. i’m just getting ready to leave on a Salmon fishing trip to Lake Michigan, so I’ve got all my gear out and could take some pictures. As far as Dipsy rods go, there are different ones used often times for different line types. If you’re going to run braid or mono, then really any longer trolling rod will work just fine. Even though you mentioned you won’t be running downriggers, I would still get longer rods of 9 ft or more as you’re going to need the rod length as you attempt to bring the fish close enough to the boat to net. Behind the Dipsy, you’ve got 6-12 ft of leader depending on personal preference, and in some cases another 24-30 inches or so if using a flasher and fly, and even more if using a meat rig with a big paddle. Even with the long rod, you need to have the guy on the rod walk towards the front of the boat so the net man can reach. As far as rod types, traditionally, guys have used roller rods if you’ll be using stainless wire, or any longer trolling rod for power pro or mono Dipsy’s. If you do use wire and choose to go the roller rout, I’d definately stick with Shimano Tolara’s. Many have switched over though to a standard long trolling rod with a Twili Tip. The tip is nothing more than a spring that allows the wire to make a gradual bend around the rod tip when pulling hard so the wire doesn’t get kinked. These are MUCH simpler than using a roller rod and work great. I’ve posted a picture below. If you go this direction, the rod doesn’t need to be fancy. I use Daiwa Wilderness series trolling rods because they are very cheap, and they work great for this presentation. I’ve also used Shimano TDR rods and they work great as well.

If you’ve used Dipsy’s before, you probably already know this, but the reel is what’s most important in this fishing technique. Those Dipsy’s pull hard, and the fish that often hit them are mean. You need a really good reel with good drag’s or you’ll burn them out. The most popular option here is Shimano Tekota’s but many have had luck with Diawa Saltist or Sealine reels. I use the Sealine’s as the price is reasonable and they do have good drag’s.

As far as rod holders, I’ve gone to an aluminum ratcheting model after breaking a plastic Scotty’s and loosing the whole setup overboard. The Burt’s Ratcheting rod holders are nice because they are very durable, and they ratchet up just by pulling with one hand so you can remove the rod straight up which is much easier than trying to muscle it out away from the boat with all that pressure on it. When a fish hit’s you just grab the end of the rod holder and pull the whole rod and holder up to you and lift straight out the top of the holder.

I run dipsys all spring and summer with braid. I use 10′(2 piece) Ugly Stiks with heavy action. Depending on the size of dipsy and the amount of line out, there is a tremendous amount of pull on the rod. Then wait for a big King to smack it .

As already stated, longer rods will keep the bait away from the boat as well. You’re not looking for a fancy handle here, just a good stout rod. A quality rod holder is also necesary. Don’t use the plastic holders that you’re trolling with for walleye.

I run the Cabelas 9′ dipsey rod. For Superior size salmon it is too stout. I run the 4″ disks too.

As far at the scotty rod holders, I ran my dipsey rods in a set last year and cringed the entire time. They flex way too much. Even though my rod, reel, power pro flasher, snubber and divers are not super expensive I would still be looking at about $150 to replace one set up plus the holder if and when it breaks off. Add extensions to that and its even more likely to snap one.

At minimum get a pair of the Tite Lok tube style rod holders. You should be able to pick them up for about $30 each.

But TO is right I love my Burts and use them for my Dip rods for just the reasons he mentioned.

Just my advice.

https://www.okumafishing.com/product/view/rods/salmon-steelhead/classic-pro-glt

These are the rods that I have been using for the last two years and I love them. 10′ Okuma Classic GLT dipsy rods. Theyre great for both braid and mono but as previously mentioned, if you plan on running wire, you would need to switch the tips or look at something completely different. I have tried several different rods for dipsys over the past few years and I like these best for a few reasons.

Biggest selling point for me is the action on these rods. With dipsys, its really important to have the right action or you are going to loose a lot of fish on them. Too stiff and you will loose fish on the initial hit. Too soft and you will have a hard time getting fish into the net because not only to you have to guide the fish to the net, you have to do it with a dipsy reeled up to the tip, and then the fish is still 6-12ft or even more behind that. You need some backbone here or its hard to guide the fish away from your other gear (rigger cables!!!!). Secondly, the price is really hard to beat. These rods come in at under 40 bucks which allows for more money to be spent on the reels and holders, which IMO are even more important than the rod you choose (again previously mentioned). Last of all, these rods are tough! Im pretty mean to my L. Michigan rods. They get thrown all over the boat and endure some bumpy rides in and out. These rods take the abuse and come back for more. I cannot say the same for many of the other, more expensive dipsy rods out there that some of my friends and I have owned (too many busted eyelets to count). Anyways, thats my recomendation for a braid or mono dipsy rod.

If i could make some other suggestions for running dipsys…… Always use snubbers! They are absolutely crucial for this application. Keep your drags loooooose. They should start to slip on outside turns or if you speed up even the tiniest amount. When a fish hits, before you ever touch the rod, dial that drag back and let the fish peel out. Then remove the rod and slowly tighten the drag back down. And lastly, take your time fighting dipsy fish. Horsing them in is a bad idea, not only is there a lot of valuable tackle attatched to that fish, the last thing in the world of salmon fishing that you want is a green, angry king at the back of the boat running circles around your riggers, gets expensive in a hurry. Good luck out there, tight lines and full coolers…..

Thanks guys! This turned into a fantastic thread full of info. I got much more than I need at this time. I’ll keep this thread in my back pocket in case I need to make any adjustments. I’ve been using dipsys for about 2 years now with great success. My hookup percentage is probably near 90% so I must be doing something right. I just want to get the right rods for the job now.

I’m getting really serious about buying a new boat so I’ll do the rod holder upgrades at that time.

I run the same Sealines as you had pictured above. I really like them so far.

I’ll surely be posting pics of my next trip to superior at the end of the month.

Thanks again!

So is the general consensus that M action is ideal for Lake Superior? Or MH?