Frame damage

  • Deke12
    Posts: 152
    #2222479

    I’ll be the first to admit I am not mechanically inclined whatsoever. that being said I recently discovered frame damage to my truck and was told that it probably shouldn’t be driven anymore. Im wondering if anyone has any opinions on if this can be repaired or if the truck is a total loss. the truck is an 06 Silverado with 207k on the dash so she’s not in her prime but id love to get a few more years out of it. thanks in advance!

    Attachments:
    1. IMG_3158-scaled.jpeg

    Deke12
    Posts: 152
    #2222480

    can’t get the pictures to load. let me try again

    Bearcat89
    North branch, mn
    Posts: 20279
    #2222487

    That is pretty bad crack all the way through. I’d find a welder who can at least reinforce that. I wouldn’t recommend to push it to much. I assume that’s your fuel tank I’m also looking at

    mojo
    Posts: 719
    #2222495

    It will take some work to reinforce that if you know a good experienced welder. In the meantime, you have no real control over driving conditions, so it would be safest to not drive it. Definitely not something you want to take off-road or do any towing with.

    chuck100
    Platteville,Wi.
    Posts: 2625
    #2222497

    I would start looking for it’s replacement.I have had to break the the news to more than a couple of people that there not going to get a coupla more years out of the old girl.
    I think you could check into getting it patched up but you usually find out the frame is getting to thin to weld to.

    stevenoak
    Posts: 1719
    #2222520

    No welder with an understanding of liability will touch it. IF he could find something solid to weld to. With that mileage, I would defiantly cut and run.

    Pailofperch
    Central Mn North of the smiley water tower
    Posts: 2918
    #2222524

    If it’s cracked there, it’s gonna crack somewhere else very soon.
    Full coverage and hit a deer…… jester
    Just kidding of course. whistling

    grubson
    Harris, Somewhere in VNP
    Posts: 1608
    #2222525

    It’s a bummer but that truck is ready for the scrap yard.

    Coletrain27
    Posts: 4789
    #2222526

    I’ve heard of many chevys with Plate steel and drill some holes in the frame and sandwhich the plates together. Not enough there to just weld it together

    milemark_714
    Posts: 1285
    #2222532

    That’s a bad spot,right where the torsion bars mount.You’re lucky it didn’t separate and drop the bars.But anything can be repaired,and that’s the reason I just hate the crap they spread on the roads.

    MX1825
    Posts: 3319
    #2222536

    Time for something different to drive.

    Huntindave
    Shell Rock Iowa
    Posts: 3088
    #2222547

    That’s a bad spot,right where the torsion bars mount.You’re lucky it didn’t separate and drop the bars

    Where are you seeing torsion bars?
    I see parking brake cables.

    Netguy
    Minnetonka
    Posts: 3169
    #2222554

    I’ve heard of many chevys with Plate steel and drill some holes in the frame and sandwhich the plates together.

    You mean like the 35W bridge??

    CaptainMusky
    Posts: 22618
    #2222557

    I dont think that is salvageable. No reputable welder would touch that I dont think.

    TheFamousGrouse
    St. Paul, MN
    Posts: 11610
    #2222561

    Even if you could find a legit shop that was able to determine that that is fixable and was willing to to take it on…and that’s a huge if….

    The problems will be cost and then finding out what else is wrong.

    A legit repair is going to cost $$$. And on top of that will be whatever it costs to fix whatever else they find. $$$ more. No legit shop is going to just fix one frame break and not look at whatever else might be wrong.

    Just life in the rust belt. All good things must come to an end. You might be surprised at what you could get for the motor even with that many miles on. If it’s a good runner it’s pretty amazing sometimes what stuff like that can sell for.

    FinnyDinDin
    Posts: 801
    #2222710

    I had a 2003 Tacoma frame crack. Bought a support cap from autorust.com and found a frame shop that would fix it. Cost me about $1,000 total if I remember right for cap and labor. Money well spent because it bought me a few more years but then had frame troubles again and the estimate was $3k+. Sold it for $2,000 to a guy who is welder by trade and he was gonna fix it and keep driving it. Engine had 240k but tacomas run for ever and the body and interior were clean. Not sure a chev would be worth much. If you are considering fixing have someone with welding knowledge that you trust inspect the whole frame before you put any money in to it.

    mrpike1973
    Posts: 1505
    #2222714

    My sister had a Chevy lumina that had the rust issue in the rear. She had it “welded” by someone. She was in a minor fender bender not her fault however it folded up bad were it was “welded” Total blame went to her because of an unfit car with “aftermarket” welding. Not being a jerk but there it is.

    catnip
    south metro
    Posts: 629
    #2222720

    It’s rusted beyond repair. The rust caused the crack therefore not enough solid steel left to weld or bolt to. And the rust will also make it cost prohibitive to do a frame swap. Best option is to sell it as a parts truck.

    Charles
    Posts: 1936
    #2222749

    Yeah its done for. I had to scrape my wife’s Honda pilot after the shock housing rusted through. This is why I spraying my Yota with oil like crazy now.

    Tom P.
    Whitehall Wi.
    Posts: 3518
    #2222844

    Yeah its done for. I had to scrape my wife’s Honda pilot after the shock housing rusted through. This is why I spraying my Yota with oil like crazy now.

    Add a little diesel fuel 50/50 to your waste oil and it will help eat in to the rust that is there. This is what I have done to my 2003 Ford F350 7.3 Crew Cab Dually 4X4 and barely any surface rust on the underside. Do it every spring and fall a big upside is every nut and bolt comes right loose if I need to change shocks or what ever.

    isu22andy
    Posts: 1733
    #2222858

    If you live in a rural area I’d weld that baby up with a plate and use her for a hunting rig and wood truck . If you’re taking it down I94 of California of the north I’d prob get something else to drive . I grew up pretty rural . Saw some crazy hunting truck fixes that lasted surprisingly long .

    Charles
    Posts: 1936
    #2222878

    Add a little diesel fuel 50/50 to your waste oil and it will help eat in to the rust that is there. This is what I have done to my 2003 Ford F350 7.3 Crew Cab Dually 4X4 and barely any surface rust on the underside. Do it every spring and fall a big upside is every nut and bolt comes right loose if I need to change shocks or what ever.

    That is what I am going to try this winter. Ever added wax to the mix?

    Bearcat89
    North branch, mn
    Posts: 20279
    #2222879

    <div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Tom P. wrote:</div>
    Add a little diesel fuel 50/50 to your waste oil and it will help eat in to the rust that is there. This is what I have done to my 2003 Ford F350 7.3 Crew Cab Dually 4X4 and barely any surface rust on the underside. Do it every spring and fall a big upside is every nut and bolt comes right loose if I need to change shocks or what ever.

    That is what I am going to try this winter. Ever added wax to the mix?

    Would this mix spray through a Hudson sprayer ? I do a under coating every year on my trucks as well but it’s a pretty spendy product

    big_g
    Isle, MN
    Posts: 22432
    #2222902

    Back in the day… that would take a steel fence post repair to keep driving. crazy doah

    Charles
    Posts: 1936
    #2222906

    Would this mix spray through a Hudson sprayer ? I do a under coating every year on my trucks as well but it’s a pretty spendy product

    The Diesel and Oil, yes will go through a pump sprayer. If you add wax, then maybe.

    A cheap undercoating gun is around $40 and they include the door spray nozzles.

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