Ford trucks

Is it only the F-150 model that has the Aluminum body? The 250 & 350 are steel?

Thanks.

ALL F series.

pretty sure its just the f150. 99.9% sure. Unless they changed it in last couple years.

After a quick google search…. the .1% won out… 2017 and newer are aluminum now on the 250 and 350’s.

In 2017 super-duty also gained aluminum bodies.

You mean me!
yay!

My 2013 is not aluminum. It’s rusting on the front bumper. Disappointing to say the least.

ssaamm wrote:

My 2013 is not aluminum. It’s rusting on the front bumper. Disappointing to say the least.

Ford F150’s 2014 and older are steel.
They rust if you sneeze on them. Especially the cab corners.

tornadochaser wrote:

Ford F150’s 2014 and older are steel.
They rust if you sneeze on them. Especially the cab corners.

it’s funny because it is true. My cab corners are starting to look bad. Once it warms up, I will try some POR 15 on it.

tornadochaser wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>ssaamm wrote:</div>
My 2013 is not aluminum. It’s rusting on the front bumper. Disappointing to say the least.

Ford F150’s 2014 and older are steel.
They rust if you sneeze on them. Especially the cab corners.

Every steel truck in the Upper Midwest rusts eventually. My 2013 F-150 does not have rust now on the body or cab corners, but I wash it whenever it is above about 25 degrees in the Winter. If you live in more populated areas where salt or salt solutions are poured on the roads like mad…every component on a vehicle made of steel seems to rust. I wish we could move away from all the salt. It’s absurd how much is sitting on roads right now before an early Spring rain washes it all into the local watersheds.

Rodwork wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>tornadochaser wrote:</div>
Ford F150’s 2014 and older are steel.
They rust if you sneeze on them. Especially the cab corners.

it’s funny because it is true. My cab corners are starting to look bad. Once it warms up, I will try some POR 15 on it.

My 2010 still looks really good. POR 15 works GREAT!! IMO
With the White, I use the Meguires Ultimate All Wheel Cleaner. Spray it on, wait 5 minutes and all the rust spots turn purple. REALLY easy to see. Use one of my old blue, kitchen scrubbies ( one side sponge the other that blue bristle stuff) and clean all the rust off. Takes about an hour but well worth it.

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How many of you guys are getting your trucks rust proofed?

Either the body and frame last or the drivetrain lasts. Not both for any mfg. They cant have you driving the vehicle too long before replacement….

super_do wrote:

How many of you guys are getting your trucks rust proofed?

I’ve been looking into it. I’ve read a lot of people saying that if you didn’t get it initial don’t bother. The existing salt on the frame will get trapped between the frame and the coating and will accelerate the problem. I am looking at applying amsoil HD

I think one of the issues is, most trucks now have the tubular nerf bars, not running boards. They don’t protect the rocker panels or lower edge of body panels from rocks/chips like a running board would do and that speeds up the rusting process.

crappie55369 wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>super_do wrote:</div>
How many of you guys are getting your trucks rust proofed?

I’ve been looking into it. I’ve read a lot of people saying that if you didn’t get it initial don’t bother. The existing salt on the frame will get trapped between the frame and the coating and will accelerate the problem. I am looking at applying amsoil HD

Once the rust is there, you are doing yourself no good by getting something “rust proofed.” If a truck has seen any winter driving with the way salt and solutions are overspread on MN roads, there’s no point in rust proofing it. Either have it done from the factory or not at all.

Coating with a product, such as line X, starving it of oxygen will slow the process.

buckybadger wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>crappie55369 wrote:</div>

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>super_do wrote:</div>
How many of you guys are getting your trucks rust proofed?

I’ve been looking into it. I’ve read a lot of people saying that if you didn’t get it initial don’t bother. The existing salt on the frame will get trapped between the frame and the coating and will accelerate the problem. I am looking at applying amsoil HD

Once the rust is there, you are doing yourself no good by getting something “rust proofed.” If a truck has seen any winter driving with the way salt and solutions are overspread on MN roads, there’s no point in rust proofing it. Either have it done from the factory or not at all.

Yes I’ve read more or less the same. Amsoil HD and other similar products are in a different category though. They are applied usually on an annual basis and they wear off and need to be reapplied. It could help prevent salt exposure once applied without trapping in Whats already on the frame.

big_g wrote:

Coating with a product, such as line X, starving it of oxygen will slow the process.

My use of POR 15 is totally to slow it down. As a used truck it came with what it had, Ground off what I could and coated the rest. Also put it on the inside, bottom part of door panels, took the weather-stripping off And applied it there over the existing “good” paint just to try and keep it from progressing “as much as possible” -it is rust and a losing battle in the end.

All the guys on tacomaworld forums rave about fluid film. I bought a few cans with the intention of doing my trucks underside this summer but never got around to it. Been washing it about once a month at self service and getting the underside good(I think).

It really is absurd how much salt gets put down on sidewalks, parking lots and roads each winter though. It makes me sad, honestly. And kind of angry. I know it helps a lot but you’d think we could cut down on the amount a little bit…

Sold my 2013 F150 to a buddy about a year ago. I bought it new. Before the first winter, I sprayed Fluid Film in the concealed cavities of the body. Rear fenders, cab corners, rockers (pulled the tape off the access holes on the backside), doors, tailgate, etc. Took around 3 cans if I remember right. Washed it on average every couple of weeks and made sure to flush out those same cavities most every time. I re-coated with Fluid Film about 3 years into ownership. To this day, the only rust on the truck is from a couple fender rock chips that didn’t get addressed soon enough.

suzuki wrote:

Either the body and frame last or the drivetrain lasts. Not both for any mfg. They cant have you driving the vehicle too long before replacement….

Toyota Tundra. I have not seen one of the new body styles with rust and they are super reliable also.

John Rasmussen wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>suzuki wrote:</div>
Either the body and frame last or the drivetrain lasts. Not both for any mfg. They cant have you driving the vehicle too long before replacement….

Toyota Tundra. I have not seen one of the new body styles with rust and they are super reliable also.

Was gonna say the same but didn’t want to start an argumnet

I used Fluid Film on my 2020 Tundra and plan to do it every fall. My end goal is to drive it till I can’t drive anymore and then I will give it to my Grandson. Not sure what it do for a Ford with the aluminum body but I know it couldn’t hurt.

Key word.. NEW body style.. if a NEW body style truck is rusting already, it should be returned fast !!!

big_g wrote:

Key word.. NEW body style.. if a NEW body style truck is rusting already, it should be returned fast !!!

Assuming you are referring to John’s remark the tundras current body style dates back to 2014 and the drivetrain hasn’t changed since 2007

John Rasmussen wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>suzuki wrote:</div>
Either the body and frame last or the drivetrain lasts. Not both for any mfg. They cant have you driving the vehicle too long before replacement….

Toyota Tundra. I have not seen one of the new body styles with rust and they are super reliable also.

Tundras are pretty much bullet proof unless the frame rusts.

tornadochaser wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>John Rasmussen wrote:</div>

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>suzuki wrote:</div>
Either the body and frame last or the drivetrain lasts. Not both for any mfg. They cant have you driving the vehicle too long before replacement….

Toyota Tundra. I have not seen one of the new body styles with rust and they are super reliable also.

Tundras are pretty much bullet proof unless the frame rusts.

The rusty frames was an issue from the previous smaller body style. FYI

John Rasmussen wrote:

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>tornadochaser wrote:</div>

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>John Rasmussen wrote:</div>

<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>suzuki wrote:</div>
Either the body and frame last or the drivetrain lasts. Not both for any mfg. They cant have you driving the vehicle too long before replacement….

Toyota Tundra. I have not seen one of the new body styles with rust and they are super reliable also.

Tundras are pretty much bullet proof unless the frame rusts.

The rusty frames was an issue from the previous smaller body style. FYI

The rust issues were throughout the entire fleet, from the sequoia to the camry

Correct they were actually replacing frames on the Tundra at no charge at the dealers for a while. Not sure about the others.