Fluorocarbon leaders

Muskie and Northern fishing. Question what size Fluorocarbon do you use and what size crimps? Thanks in advance.

I always use wire leaders. Not worth losing the fish of a lifetime on anything less. Furthermore, I and many others argue that large pike and muskies don’t even see the wire leader. You’re not finesse fishing them?

The reason for the use of fluorocarbon leader is because when a pike or ski decides to roll they won’t get all cut up by the wire leader. The ones I buy are 80lbs

My recommendation is to make your own. Then you know what it is made out of and that you can ensure you are using the line the swivels and snaps that you like. For the right line look at Hi-Seas. I get it in 150-200lbs depending on the application. Also I would shy away from crimps, crimps squish and damage the line. learn a good saltwater knot for heavy lines and use that instead. You can make a ton on a dollar and you can make them as long as you want as well. I like 6 inches to 15 inches. Having full control over the leader is very nice. Also some times a wire leader hampers the action of certain baits Phantoms, hell hounds, tubes and other baits will all be effected by wire leaders.

I use #90 18″ store bought ones. I agree that they won’t see or be shy of a wire leader, but fluro leaders outlast wire leaders by far in my experience. All it seems to take is a snakey northern to kink, twist and ruin the wire ones. I also had many pike in the 15-20 pound range completely inhale my bait and fluro leader with no issues. I’d trust my fish of a life-time with one, but just my .02 cents.

Well what’ya know? I didn’t even ask the question but I agree with everything you guys are posting. That’s what I love about this site.
I think I’ll be switching over to the Flourocarbon leaders now.

And let’s Remember that the fluorocarbon is for no stretch not so much for visibility because pike and musky the more they see the better it’s also for kink resistance and flexibility for better action

I use floro leaders more when I troll and wire for casting. My lures get fouled more often in the line/leader when trying to cast with floro.

I use Fluro 90% of the time. I only use wire when fishing WTD or some other jerk baits.

http://www.bigwoodmuskylures.com/lures.php?cat=leaders&make=&page=1

Here’s what I use 180lb Stealth leaders. Wouldn’t go any less than 130#. I’ve seen them shred 90#, granted not often but have lost fish.

I run the VMC 150# 18″ leaders. Never had a problem with them. Like everyone said, the fluoro leaders don’t get nearly as beaten up us steel wire.

Allan Davis wrote:

learn a good saltwater knot for heavy lines

Care to share?

I’ve been using store bought for pike fishing the past few years. Mostly I’m a fan but want to start making my own. Basically smaller hardware on the ends but nobody sells what I want.

Thanks Guys for the info. I am thinking about making some of my own. Thanks again.

I really like this knot I haven’t had any issues and it is simple. I burn the end of the tag end to form a little ball at the end of the line.

Did you mean to put an attachment on here? Would love to see the knot you use.

Allan Davis wrote:

I really like this knot I haven’t had any issues and it is simple. I burn the end of the tag end to form a little ball at the end of the line.

chirp wrote:

Did you mean to put an attachment on here? Would love to see the knot you use.

Well,,, The knot shown hides well.

lol sorry lets try this again

Thanks Allan.

not a problem and there are a lot more knots to. Look at what the saltwater fisherman use and trial and error.

I use 130lb Hi-Seas with size “C” double-barrel sleeves (1.3mm).
In my judgment this is a good balance between flexibility and durability. I’ve never had one fail, though I do replace them when they start showing wear.

Sleeves do not cause damage as long as you use the right size and crimp them properly. They’re easier to make and I trust them more than trying to tie a knot in the fluoro.
Everything you need to know is right here:
http://leadertec.com/tipsandtechniques/crimp_techniques.html