Fluoro leader brand with braid and how heavy

In particular what make and more importantly what pound test to couple with 4, 6, and 8 pound diameter braid. Talking basic uni to uni connection, although i have done a simple spider hitch on the braid vs uni to uni after breaking off at the connection assuming the braid is cutting into the leader. In general ive gone heavier as i typically fish stained water, and often snaggy areas. Minus that for general conditions what have you found to be your go to braid to fluoro combos? Another factor is presentation, fishing say inline spinners or topwater or jerkbaits vs a stronger hook set scenario such as tubes or texas rigged plastics where there is more ‘shock’ on the setup. One more factor, im talking spinning gear in general…how many questions can a guy fit in one post!

I run 10lb test suffix 832 braid and have been using 15# floro for the leader, I want to say it’s Berkley vanish but not 100% sure. No real science to the 15#, just saw it at the store and said that sounds like a good weight to use and have stuck with it. It’s worked well for me, I can only think of two break offs last year and both were on the floro down from the knot like I missed feeling some nicks and should have replaced it. I normally run a double uni to marry the two. (i only use spinning gear, never got the hang of baitcasters)
Probably others here who can give you way more scientific advise on how and why that is most likely a better setup, but the above has work well for me on walleye, pike and smallies.

Suffix 832 in 6 or 8# I use an 8 #10# floro on a spinning setup. Usually seagar braid. Walleye and smallie river setup.

15# braid I run 15 or 20 floro. If there are a lot of pike I tend to go heavier.

20# braid and I run a 25# floro.

The floro can nic up pretty bad so I tend to run long leaders and retie a lot.

If you are in stained water why run the leaders?

Scott:

I generally run 10# braid and to start I was running 10# Berkley Vanish. But if I was ever snagged on the bottom, I would lose the whole setup at the knot. That was pretty frustrating, but I never really lost fish so I was always leary… Eventually after having to tie another back-to-back uni, I pulled out some Seaguar 20#. We were fishing on a pretty clear body of water and fishing walleyes that night and I was with some pretty good sticks and we had a decent bite going. Well after tieing that 20# on I never relly lost in any fish catching competition and was able to keep the integrity of my uni knots!!! So I basically run that set-up.

I do run the 10# braid to 10# Berkeley still, just use it for finesse for pans… I have run the the walleye setup for panfish and it doens’t even bother 10″gills!!! I have started to integrate 20# braid in to my fishing and generally don’t see any difference at all there either.

Mark

I use Offshore tackle, Extreme, 100 percent fluorocarbon made by Seaguar or use High Seas 20# or less for smaller fish if water is clear.
Flouro 20# to 40# for pike. If you use 40# use the 2 sleeves and crimp the swivel in a loop. I spool the tip up with 50# teflon coated braid from Mason.
Sounds like over kill but the heavier line is easier to handle and bring in a fish.
Beware that some fluorocarbon line is not 100 percent fluorocarbon.
Good luck fishin

On my spinning gear, I run 10# Suffix 832 (in Yellow if I can find it) to 8# Seagar flouro (yellow box) connected with the FG knot. I haven’t found a more sensitive combo yet. For comparison sake. On my Baitcasting gear I run 30# 832 to 12# Seagar also with the FG knot.

I run 10lb Sufix 832 braid to 8lb Sufix 100% fluorocarbon invisiline. That’s my setup for almost all of my spinning gear. I use straight mono for jerbaits.

Here is the link to the fluoro, as a lot of people get the sufix castable fluorocarbon mixed up with the leader material. It’s much different line.

https://www.rapala.com/sufix/leaders/100prcnt-fluorocarbon-invisiline-leader/100prcnt-fluorocarbon-invisiline-leaders/100+Fluorocarbon+Invisiline+Leader.html?brandname=sufix

For snaggy areas, I highly recommend sticking with mono leader. Flouro when stretched out gets compromised and will no longer have the same strength as before. Been there done that on the river. Plus if your water clarity is stained as you say why the need for flouro.

Back when I ran braid 10# Powerpro and 8# mono with a modified Albright would break off all day where it should, at the lure on snags. I’d start with 4′ of mono and by days end it might be 8″ bc of breakoffs. Not once the Albright broke, or the mono from stretching over and over.