I looked for previous threads about using floro for the main line for slip bobber fishing and couldn’t find anything. If I recall correctly, I believe I read previously about guys not recommending it for the main line and most suggested using a good mono and just a floro leader. What’s wrong with using floro for the main line?
Appreciate any input you guys and gals have to offer.
Thx
It sinks…not good for a long cast and trying to set the hook
It sinks…not good for a long cast and trying to set the hook
Ah yes, thanks for refreshing my old memory B Man! 
And what’s everyone’s favorite mono for slip bobber fishing?
as well as LB test?
6 lb Suffix Elite. Best I tried. Used to use trilene xl but Suffix is better imo.
Trilene XL. Clear.
If you’re talking walleye, I use Suffix braid but when I used to use mono I used 8lb Trilene XT. You want your main line to be stronger than your leader. That way if you break off your leader you don’t lose everything. Just have to tie on another few feet of leader and a hook and cast it back out.
The only reason I’d ever use a 6lb main line would be for panfish.
If you’re talking walleye, I use Suffix braid but when I used to use mono I used 8lb Trilene XT. You want your main line to be stronger than your leader. That way if you break off your leader you don’t lose everything. Just have to tie on another few feet of leader and a hook and cast it back out.
The only reason I’d ever use a 6lb main line would be for panfish.
Joe
How does your bobber stop work on the braid?
Does it slip much from it’s original setting?
Or is there a better bobber stop for braid?
Search “Better Slip Bobber Stop”. Joe explains it well there
I can’t find the bobber stops joe suggested anywhere. Looked a couple of times since the OP.
I use regular string bobber stops on 8lb power pro line, and 6lb mononor fluro leader. The bobber stop needs to be wet before you tighten it. Not sure the science behind that but that combo has been the best for my walleye set ups. The bobber stop will last a whole summer and stay tight.
The best approach I’ve found for bobber stops on superlines is to simply use two stops put on separate and pushed together.
I’ve had difficulty with any other types of stops not casting smoothly.
Will
Joe
How does your bobber stop work on the braid?
Does it slip much from it’s original setting?
Or is there a better bobber stop for braid?
I don’t have much of an issue at all. If they get real old they might slip after reeling in a fish. If I notice any movement I just put on a new one and it works great again. The other stops out there just don’t work very well.
It depends…for most people slip bobber fishing is a dead stick presentation. You basically just set it and watch it. Slowly picking up slack. That makes that flourocarbon line work against you as it sinks and drags in the water.
If you’re an active slip bobber, or fixed bobber. You’re constantly imparting action onto the bobber/lure. That flourocarbon line isn’t so bad as there’s not much time given to allow it to really sink and drag in the water.
I have 2 rods in my boat rigged up and ready for slip bobbering… both are inexpensive, and honestly, the ones I like the best… 7 foot med light ugly sticks with shimano $40 reels (can’t remember the name of reel) spooled with 8 pound clear mono. Regular knot bomber stops, bead, thill wobble bobbers, bead ball bearing swivel, 3 foot of 6 pound flouro, and a 1/8 ounce google eye jig.
So why is the line sinking a problem? the lure is under the bobber (sunk) does it mess up the action somehow?
So why is the line sinking a problem? the lure is under the bobber (sunk) does it mess up the action somehow?
Your slack line sinks. When you pick up your rod and try to set the hook the slack line is submerged and you do not get a good hookset.
I use Florocarbon extensively for other things, but not slip bobbering.
I’ve used mostly braid for years, and honestly it doesn’t usually cause an issue. Every once in awhile I’ll find I need to double up on stops, but most of the time they hold fine. I do have two stops on my bobber rods just in case, but that’s more because I don’t want to re-tie on the off chance I’ll need them both. Nice thing with braid is the zero stretch and thin diameter means better hooksets and less issues with your slack line bowing in the water.
I’ve been using braid mainline on everything with a flouro or mono leader. Just so versatile and the zero stretch has prevented me from going back to anything else
Floats in braid or even very thin, light monos can be the pits. The double string knot steps up to the braid dilemma but I use a lot of small static floats with real light line. Here’s a couple of thill mini-stealths that I use many of and with light lines [and yes I’ve tried this with braids] and how I’ve addressed the slippage issue. These small floats come with one of the latex tubes to secure the line to the float. I use two of the latex tubes.
The line going away from the top of the float is going to the rod. You can see how the float is rigged thru the small hole in the stem from the lure, then the latex tubes are simply pushed on over the stem and line. The second tube on the right side float is strung and ready to be slipped on the stem. While the line I used here was primarily for visibility so you can see how they’re rigged, I have tried these exact floats with the 4 pound Clam Ice Braid that’s hair thin and the dual tubing works with it as small as it is. I’m almost certain that two string stops tied on the thin line will wok if this does for a static float.
Someone asked earlier what wetting the strings did…..the wet string tightens tighter because the water reduces the friction that would hinder the strings from drawing tight.
here’s the link to Joe’s better slip knot. (sept 10, 2018) about half way down page
(https://www.in-depthoutdoors.com/community/forums/topic/better-slip-bobber-stop/)
I just tie a uni knot on my braid using some old dacron casting line or some carpet thread, they don’t move !
Thanks Lindy, makes sense.
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