Do I need to or do I not need a backing line on the line couning reel? If so, how much and what type of line? Any other tips on lead core fishing setup would be great.My set up is an 8′ 6″ rod with a Diawa size 27 reel and plan on using 18 lb. line with a 12 lb. fluorocarbon leader. Thanks.
The only reason you would need backing is if you’re planning on running it on boards (you clip the board to the backing), or if you have a big reel and use backing as filler.
You’ll just need a few feet of mono or black tape on the spool so the leadcore line doesn’t slip. If using a piece of mono, tie it to the spool with a 4 wrap uni, then the other end to your core with a uni-uni or Willis.
Also, a size 27 is a pretty small reel. You’re probably only going to get 5-7 colors of 18lb on it anyways, so you don’t need backing to act as filler either.
Thanks B-man.
A couple other tips that may help.
To connect your leader to the leadcore, look up the “Willis Knot.” It works great with standard leadcore, the superline leadcore not-so-much….
An alternative is using a 50lb Spro swivel (size 8 I believe??). Strip some lead out of the sheath and tie a uni knot to the swivel, then your leader on the other end of the swivel. The swivel is small enough to reel through your guides and levelwind.
Use actual fluorocarbon leader material, not just fluorocarbon line. Look up Seagaur Blue label, Red Label, or STS.
For leader length I start out with a 20′ piece or so, and use it until it gets down to about 10′ before re-tying on a new one.
Also fill your reel completely full (like to the last 1/16″ of spool). It’s okay to even slightly overfill it if needed to get the last of a color segment on. Leadcore is thick, and your spool quickly gets smaller as you deploy line (especially on a 27 size reel). A thin spool without much line on it is slow, and also throws off your drag tension (compared to when it was originally full).
If you ever build a second combo, use the same size/brand reel, same brand/size line, same length leader and fill the spool to the same capacity. You want to be able to easily replicate.
See Below
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Here is a few tips as I’m getting pretty good at setting these up. I fish these for walleye and GL so it’s nice to go back and for with the same rods. The bonus is you have an extra rod if you ever end up on a GL.
-I don’t recommend filling the spool with lead. I know some reels fit 10 colors perfect, but don’t be tempted to take the easy path. With no backing you will never fish the bottom 3 colors and the spool will be way to small to get anything on one turn once you get to the bottom colors.
-for walleye, don’t go with a monster reel and 10 colors. No fun to hold or reel in. I would go smaller and split up a spool to your max depth. 5 colors can get you down about 25 for reference. A deep diver will add a little more which seems to be about as deep as I go.
– my preferred set up is mono backing, couple hundred feet of braid, 50 ft hi vis mono, lead segments ( I’ve done copper, wire, steel), mono leader. I can fit this on a Sea Line 27 and the reel is small enough to hold in my hand.
– I set these up the following way below. I copied this from another post I did, but it covers the basics. Sounds complicated, but actually is pretty easy when you get the hang of it.
Find a few old spools and use a cordless drill. Put everything on backwards, then use the separate spools to take it off. Finally put on in the order you want. I do this for my mono to braid to 50ft mono (clip to) to lead segments. It comes out perfect every time. Sounds more complicated than it really is and actually goes pretty quick. Tip- use duck tap as opposed to knots on the first pass. Helps you see when the knot is coming up. Also use duck tape to make an old spook stick to a drill bit. A little wrapped and the side does the trick. The key to putting this on backwards is you get to fit the line you want, but then just use as much mono or braid as needed to have a perfectly filled spool. I tried a bunch of other methods and this is the only one I found that you can do with out another identical reel.
Johnie I do the same thing with the drill for my setups. It’s the only way to go when setting up weighted planer lines (lead, copper, weighted steel). Let’s me fill a reel perfectly everytime.
I’m a great lakes junkie too with all sorts of weighted rigs 
I even do it with spinning gear. I’ll split a 150 yard spool between two spinning reels and back them with mono for filler.
But instead of using duct tape to a drill bit, I use a piece of threaded rod with nuts and washers. Works slick!
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It all depends on how you fish, where you fish and what works for you.
Here’s how I use leadcore when trolling for walleyes and what works for me. There are many ways to do it.
I use #30 reels on all of my leadcore rods and a 10 color spool of 18# leadcore (standard type of leadcore) fits perfectly on a #30 reel without any backing. I’ve never held my rods when trolling leadcore so the heavier weight and larger size isn’t an issue for me. I vary speeds and make S turns to trigger strikes and see no reason to hold a leadcore rod and pump it to trigger strikes while trolling for walleyes.
I never know what depth I’ll be fishing and 10 colors will easily cover all the possible depths that I’ll troll with leadcore with plenty of line left on the spool(barotrauma is an interesting subject for another time). I’ve done it this way for years and all I can say is that it’s worked well for me. It’s easy to do and the principle known as KISS is how I like to troll for walleyes with leadcore. The simpler the better.
I don’t understand what you mean by “With no backing you will never fish the bottom 3 colors and the spool will be way to small to get anything on one turn once you get to the bottom colors”. I’m unconcerned if the line near the bottom of the spools on my leadcore reels ever sees the light of day or not.
B-man, you have a serious problem collecting trolling rods. Better you than me though. 
B man- sweet set up. Maybe we should move this to another forum, but I’ve been tempted to dump my lead over 3 or 5 colors and go snap weight and lead combos. It seems to take for ever to deploy those otherwise. I have a few steel eyelet lead rods which help, but still is annoying to spend the time launching those when running a spread.
I use size 27 Diawa’s. Spool 100′ of 14 lb braid (put a small piece of elect tape on the first wrap so it won’t slip) and then all 10 colors of 18lb superline leadcore (Tuf-line or Suffix super thin), must be the superline lead to get all 10 colors on. Small swivel and 10-12 lb mono or floro for leader. I usually make my leader the same length as my rod.
B man- sweet set up. Maybe we should move this to another forum, but I’ve been tempted to dump my lead over 3 or 5 colors and go snap weight and lead combos. It seems to take for ever to deploy those otherwise. I have a few steel eyelet lead rods which help, but still is annoying to spend the time launching those when running a spread.
Some guys do it that way (short cores and snap weights).
It hear it works, but it can be tricky resetting shallower lines back over deeper lines since the snap weight can sink pretty fast and uneven.
If only running four boards (two on each side) it wouldn’t be a big deal to pull the inside board to reset the outside.
A lot of the time I run an 8-10 rod spread (six boards) so snap weights on leadcore is asking for trouble (when resetting a shallower line over deeper inside lines).
I personally like running just straight leadcore up to 7 colors (usually 1-5 colors though), anything deeper I use 150′, 200′, and 300′ coppers.
More depth with less line out.
A 150′ copper dives as deep as a 7 color (210′ of leadcore). A 200′ copper runs as deep as a 10 color (300′ of leadcore), and a 300′ copper hits depths not possible with leadcore (75-90′ depending on speed).
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