I’ve got a good pattern going now for walleye, but I’m having issues finding a good line . Going off a recommendation i strung four rods with berkley big game in eight pounds test. The line seems very strong but it twist and tangles like I’ve never seen before. What do you think is a good mono for corking . I don’t use a leader and don’t want braid. My simple setup is bobber two split shot and a red bead at the hook. Thanks for any recommendations
I use regular Berkely Trilene 10lb xt on my bobber rods. Big game is good line and shouldn’t give you issues.
I think you need a swivel between your weights and your hook. They will reduce your twisting issues by a good margin.
Also make sure you’re not reeling against the drag.
I like Trilene XL. Strong, Very soft and knots hold well on it.
I like 6# trilene sensation, I also have switched to blaze orange and solar green for visibility. Nice to see the slack. But I do add a swivel and anything from 4-15# flourocarbon leader. Eliminating line twists and cut offs and visibility.
Thanks for the comments I’m going to try a swivel but I like the simplicity of not using one. I would think I would put it between the weight and bobber though not between the weight and the hook. I should add that I’m fishing an eddie in a river so I’m guessing that’s causing a lot of twisting.
I do slipknot, bead, bobber, bead, bullet weight, bead, swivel, leader hook.
Sensation is a copolymer which after time exposed to water does sink a lil imo. Didn’t find it ideal last summer using it for slipping. 2 cents
Sufix elite is an extremely supple monofilament.
Sensation is a copolymer which after time exposed to water does sink a lil imo. Didn’t find it ideal last summer using it for slipping. 2 cents
Sufix elite is an extremely supple monofilament.
I just finished rigging two rods with the sufix elite. I’m going to rig the other two with trilene xl. Should be a fun experiment. When spooling the line I’ve read to put the label up on the spool and also read to put the label down. Anybody have the definitive answer (with proof) of course ! 
When spooling the line I’ve read to put the label up on the spool and also read to put the label down.
This may depend on the brand of line. I don’t know if ALL manufactures put the label on the same side of the spool. (in relation to the direction the line is wound onto their spool) I’m sure they are using different equipment in their respective factories.
Trilene 8lb. XL or XT in 6lb. is ideal.
Suffix Elite.
Imho there’s no such thing as good mono
I do slipknot, bead, bobber, bead, bullet weight, bead, swivel, leader hook.
I do the exact same except I use a small egg sinker.
DT
If you aren’t already, close the bail by hand instead of cranking the handle.
Suffix Elite
Imho there’s no such thing as good mono
And there’s no such thing as “good” braid, so you must be sol.
Suffix elite was awesome. Floated real good making picking up the slack super easy. I added a swivel and never had a single twist in the line beginning to end. Thanks for advice guys!
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A couple more
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I should add that when I respooled I had the new spool flat on the floor with the label down and then after the reel spool was full I soaked it in a cup of warm water to help it relax and form to the new spool size. I pulled in over twenty walleye this morning and the line was perfect.
<div class=”d4p-bbt-quote-title”>Tom Albrecht wrote:</div>
Imho there’s no such thing as good monoAnd there’s no such thing as “good” braid, so you must be sol.
Never saw a need for those new fangled inventions. Cat gut and silk work just fine. 
Well heck Dave…..do we agree on something? lol Right back atcha.
People have to learn a little about monos. Some are designed and developed softer for spinning reel use and slip knots [stops] can grip the line for slip corking. Some are harder, but still made for spinning reel use. Some are even harder yet and work best on casting equipment where any chance of twist developed by the bail is nill.
I cast the Two Harbors breakwater a LOT. 130-150 foot casts are common and then more line is fed out with an open bail until the lure hits bottom. THEN THE BAIL IS CLOSED MANUALLY. I have never needed any thing more than the swivel tied to the line to clip lures and get rid of twist created by them. I can fish the entire season and never, ever have line jump the spool, get “wind knots” or any of the usual maladies that have been mentioned here. On my last trip to the brekwater and during the last few minutes of it I’ll find a kid with his parents walking out and will give him a couple bucks to take my net with my line tied to it towards the end of the breakwater until they see me wave when the end is reached at my end. They slip the net handle into a ladder and I then walk out , tie that end to the reel and crank all the line back with the line in the water. Its fresh end is right there for a swivel for next year. Here at home I have a stream and good current right in my back yard. When I spool new line I always make a trip to the footbridge crossing the stream and let the current take every inch of the new line right back off the reel, then I re-reel it using some slight pinch tension on it and there’s zero ugly memory in when I am finished. When I use those rods, I close the bail manually every time. Its an instilled habit now. Again, forget twist. However, one cannot control fish caused twist and when I see it start and am in a boat I’ll take time to let all the line off the reel without anything tied to it and again re-reel. Doing this absolutely gets rid of line twist. The biggest problem with mono lines is people are too lazy to understand the little things that signal in the future issues and take steps to alleviate those issues.
Too many people get sucked into the “too heavy of mono” world. Light pound testing mono even if its a soft and memory free mono is way tougher than most people give it credit for because they think they have to have a drag set tight enough to tow an extra boat.
Too many people are putting the stiff mono on a spinning reel when in fact its best use is on a casting reel.
Copolymers and fluorocarbons also fall under the heading of monos and perhaps the biggest issue in these lines is that not near enough people know they sink like a brick within minutes of being exposed to the water. These are dynamite lines for making long leaders, vertical jigging and trolling but are the absolute pits if you’re fishing pannies in some backwaters with a float. And they tend to be very temperature specific lines…..the warmer the water is they are being used in the fewer issues that tend to be noticed, but cool the water down to 40 degrees and watch those little gremlins pop up all over the place. These lines have their place IF one is aware of those little gremlins.
Braids and super lines all have their place as well. My comment to Tom Albrecht is about as empty as his comment on monos. I have two casting and one spinning reel filled with various weights of power pro and they get used when I get into the backwaters for some top-water action while the crappies are being left alone to spawn. I have two custom weight ul spinning rods that each carry 3 pound Nanofil and are used specifically for vertical jigging very light lures on docks and when vertical jigging deep, submerged wood or other structure. But quite honestly I think that if people took time to understand mono lines a little they’d find fewer uses for braids. Trilene XL is one of the best and most affordable lines on the market today and I use it from Lake Superior for casting to southeastern Minnesota for all other kinds of fishing and don’t use any mono over 6 pound test.
Gino you’ll love Suffix Elite through the ice too. Awesome stuff 
Gino you’ll love Suffix Elite through the ice too. Awesome stuff
yea a good ice fishing line now that’s a whole other thread there . I’ve been labeling my ice rod handles for years with the line i have on to see what works best for me. I’ll have too give it a try.
Well heck Dave…..do we agree on something? lol Right back atcha.
Tom, I suspect we actually agree on a lot of things. I also think we both are mature enough to accept that there will be things even the best of friends disagree on.
That out of the way, I whole heartily agree with your dissertation on fishing lines. Nothing wrong with most any line, if and when it is used in the application in which it’s qualities excel.
Another vote for tri-XL.
Have tried a lot over the years and keep going back to trilene XL in green. Use to go 6lb, but now for the most part it’s all 8lb with a good, small barrel swivel with a smaller diameter dropper if it’s deemed useful for the conditions.
If something else works for you, good deal.
About 10 years ago switched to braid for my slip bobber setups. Prior to that I used to order a gross of slip bobbers every March. Since switching to braid I probably only lost a 12 bobbers if that many.
Since I do not or very rarely fish rivers. Mostly reservoirs and almost always in a boat.Perhaps the braid doesn’t hold up under rocky river conditions ?
I use 15-20# braid with duo cross lock at end of it. Leader usually about 3 foot of 6 or 8 lb clear mono or fluorocarbon. Swivel at one end of leader and another duo cross lock on business end. When I snag or even if a fish breaks me off. I get the bobber back every time ad the duo lock won’t let it slip thru.
I snag often as brush piles and stump fields are two of my favorite places for crappie fishing. Standard mono will cast further than braid for sure. But the headaches I have had with mono makes me glad they invented the braid.
About 10 years ago switched to braid for my slip bobber setups. Prior to that I used to order a gross of slip bobbers every March. Since switching to braid I probably only lost a 12 bobbers if that many.
Since I do not or very rarely fish rivers. Mostly reservoirs and almost always in a boat.Perhaps the braid doesn’t hold up under rocky river conditions ?
I use 15-20# braid with duo cross lock at end of it. Leader usually about 3 foot of 6 or 8 lb clear mono or fluorocarbon. Swivel at one end of leader and another duo cross lock on business end. When I snag or even if a fish breaks me off. I get the bobber back every time ad the duo lock won’t let it slip thru.
I snag often as brush piles and stump fields are two of my favorite places for crappie fishing. Standard mono will cast further than braid for sure. But the headaches I have had with mono makes me glad they invented the braid.
My reason for using mono is that I’m floating my rig up to two hundred and fifty feet to get to a location that is very productive that is not legally possible to get my boat any closer. I’ve tried using braid but the slack line sinks so bad that it will not make it there without getting snagged on under water rocks. I love my braid on most all other presentation, but slip bobber below a dam , in my opinion is best done with monofilament. I’m feeding line out until a fish bites and must be able to pick the slack up very quickly, a good floating monofilament accomplishes this no problem.
I’m with Tom on the braid comment.
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