Crankbait-braid connections

I have used snapswivels for many years, but was recently advised by a sporting goods employee to consider tweaking my setup. When connecting crankbaits to Fireline/PowerPro/Etc, what are your thoughts on the following options?

1. Remove the split ring and connect direct to the eyelet molded within the lip of the bait.

2. Using Duolock style connectors secured with a Palomar knot between line and crank.

3. If switching from cranks to 3 ways/spinner rigs, using a single barrel swivel within the spinner rig’s leader to provide protection from the rig wrapping upon itself.

Thanks in advance for any responses!

It depends on the crankbait. Typically I do not like to use any snaps or swivels because I feel that some of them may affect the swimming action of your crankbait, the swimming angle of your crankbait or the vibration of your crankbait. I’ve done a lot of experimenting and always get better results directly tying onto the crankbait. In regard to removing the split ring – this doesn’t make much sense to me because if your line gets pulled in one direction and it slides to one side of your eyelet, your crankbait will be out of tune and not swim properly.

I usually use just a snap when using crankbaits. It keeps the knot from slipping side to side and affecting the lure allowing it to run true. Also makes switching cranks a lot faster.

i’ve heard its the other way around brad.

from my understanding, the duo-locs, snap swivels, etc, allow your crankbait to achieve its full range of motion because if you tie directly to the ring, you can pinch the line onto it and it will limit the movement. unless of course you tie on some sort of loop knot with plenty of room for the ring to rotate.

but then again, mb its all personal preference… kinda like a chevy/ford debate.

Unless I am ripping a floating Rap on the surface I use a #2 Duoloc snap on my crankbaits…

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Unless I am ripping a floating Rap on the surface I use a #2 Duoloc snap on my crankbaits…

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X2

I have played around numerous times with all different ways. When it comes down to it I always end up going right back to a #2 duo lock. Until I can prove that something else works better I will stick with that!!

X3. If you do not use the snap your crankbait will often not have the proper action and / or it will not be correctly balanced. Braid just makes the problem more evident and the baits tend to try and roll when speading up your retrieve.

Thanks to everyone for the input! It was great to get all of the feedback. For now, I am going to try #2 Duoloc snaps and no swivel.

This is a good post and it’s got me thinking a bit more on this topic. For those of you using snaps, do you remove the O-ring if the crankbait comes with one? I could see removing it on a stick bait with a shallow lip or no lip but what about deep diving crankbaits? When I experiemented with snaps before, I removed all of the o-rings.

One thing I do hate when tying on directly to the o-ring crankbait is when the line gets into the entry point of the ring. This may affect the crankbaits swimming action or may fray or weaken the line thus causing it to break. To avoid this, I started replacing my O-rings with oval rings (pictured below) because they don’t rotate around as much.

I also started using a non-slip loop knot with mono line. I really like the free range of motion with this knot.

I’ve heard using a duolock snap enhances the swimming motion (wobble) of your crankbait. If this is the case, do you believe it may also affect the depth curve?

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For those of you using snaps, do you remove the O-ring if the crankbait comes with one?

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I take the time to tune my Flicker Shads but that’s about it. I do not remove the O-rings. Same goes for Rapalas.

Brad, after reading your post, my thought was that removing the split ring but using the snap would maintain range of motion for the lure while allowing me to quickly switch cranks or even go to three-ways and so on. My thought on removing the split ring was related more for casting. I am hoping that I can decrease line fouls (line wraps around treble hook, snap, split ring), increase energy transfer from crank through gear to hand (wondered if some vibration loss occurs at the split ring), and ease changing of cranks since my ten thumbs can’t seem to hook the flopping split ring easily as the smaller but steady eyelet. I really appreciate your consideration on the topic.

One can always trhead a swivel onto the split rings…works wonders for me. Most of all, it’s lure dependent. Some lures, especially magnectic weight transfer systems, doesn’t matter so much for how the connection will be. Other lures, especially balsa type lures, a direct snap will give it the best action.

real nice thread here… must agree with about everything. I do use a basic snap for all crank jerk and topwaters. leave the split rings on most times.
If I’m in a tourney and got the crankbait size color dialed in, I may just tie on to the split, mainly cause it looks cool… a little less hardware can’t hurt.
Check out the new snaps from Owner. heavy duty. pike, walleye guys might like them.
great thread with great info.

some of you purists out there will probably be horrified by this but i was losing a bunch of crankbaits to the zebra mussels while casting and trolling wingdams down on pool 14. i noticed that most of the “cuts” were on the first 5-6″ of line closest to the lure. so i started using a 9-12″ steel leader with a snap on all my crankbaits. i feel this has saved me about 50% more lures than w/out the leader. also comes in handy when you hook into a snot rocket which is quite often. haven’t really noticed the fish showing any disapproval to the leader and the cranks run fine. i do notice a slight difference in the action of the smaller cranks like flicker shads and #4/#5 shadraps, but when tossing the DT raps and bombers i can’t tell the difference. just my 0.02 cents worth.

Brad,
I’ve noticed a few more of my cranks coming with those oval rings, and I think I really like them and the idea behind them. I’d like to use more of the oval rings on other cranks, too.
What kind are yours and where do you get them?

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Brad,
I’ve noticed a few more of my cranks coming with those oval rings, and I think I really like them and the idea behind them. I’d like to use more of the oval rings on other cranks, too.
What kind are yours and where do you get them?

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Bass Pro Shop (here’s the link) – they come in nickel or black nickel and various sizes depending on the size of your crankbait.

Excellent. Thanks!

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some of you purists out there will probably be horrified by this but i was losing a bunch of crankbaits to the zebra mussels while casting and trolling wingdams down on pool 14. i noticed that most of the “cuts” were on the first 5-6″ of line closest to the lure. so i started using a 9-12″ steel leader with a snap on all my crankbaits. i feel this has saved me about 50% more lures than w/out the leader. also comes in handy when you hook into a snot rocket which is quite often. haven’t really noticed the fish showing any disapproval to the leader and the cranks run fine. i do notice a slight difference in the action of the smaller cranks like flicker shads and #4/#5 shadraps, but when tossing the DT raps and bombers i can’t tell the difference. just my 0.02 cents worth.

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I run steel leaders too, usually 4-6 inches against them Zebra Mussles.