Just wondering what some of your preferences are on this.I usually cast my crankbaits with braid. But they advertise that with using fluorocarbon with it’s low stretch that you can get those baits down just as deep. Does anybody out there use fluorocarbon alot while throwing their crankbaits? Just thought I’d throw it out there.
I use fluorocarbon line for allmost everything now. I love the low stretch, sensitivity, and no visibility. This stuff is the best thing thats happened to fishing since the “green box”! 
I’m almost all floro now too.
-J.
What lb. test flouro are you guys using?
Thanks,
FDR
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What lb. test flouro are you guys using?
Thanks,
FDR
On top of that, could you do a little education? Regarding diameter, are mono and fluorocarbon the same? Example: 10# fluorocarbon…is that the same diameter as 10# mono?
What’s so great about flouro BESIDES it resistance to abrasion?
12 to 20 lb.
10# mostly 8# if useing bait. 15-20 for heavy cover bassin.
Ruger,
Make this same post on the bass forum, you may get a lot more chatter. BLueFleck turned me on to floro or florocopolymers like P-line 5-6 years ago. I absolutely love the stuff for casting cranks. And I’m talking casting with a casting rod and casting reel. (Levelwind, low profile reels like a Shimano Curado paired up with a quality St Croix rod in the 7 foot range) Not a real typical set up for most “walleye” guys. But now I have 10-12 rod/reel set ups specifically for this purpose.
This was reinforced recently watching the Linders on TV. All of their crankbait casting set ups are similar, some mono, some floro. All in the 12-20 pound range. Shows for both walleye and bass. You never see these guys using a hard line. Whats good for the Linders is good for me! 
You can straighten out snagged hooks with 17 pound P-line. Easy to work with and you can cast this stuff a country mile! I use these same set up to pitch ¼ ounce jig/plastics combs too. I’m totally sold!
-J.
Braid in Hi Vis yellow (Power Pro) for trolling and castings. I will break out the mono for V jigging again in Hi Vis yellow. The bad thing about the power pro is those damn knots and my p-poor near vision 
Trolling Power pro 20lb. which is only 6 lb dia. Casting 15lb. power pro which is 4lb. dia.
I would be interested to hear what brands of Floro you guys are having success with. Everything that I have bought will not stay on my spinning reel spool no matter what. I have given up on the floro except for using it as leader material when fishing clear lakes attached to my p-pro.
I don’t use floro or cast crankbaits on spinning reels. 
I guess I assumed most of the bass guys used casting reel a majority of the time. 
-J.
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I would be interested to hear what brands of Floro you guys are having success with. Everything that I have bought will not stay on my spinning reel spool no matter what. I have given up on the floro except for using it as leader material when fishing clear lakes attached to my p-pro.
Nic that’s the same problem I experienced so I just went back to my Power Pro also.I have had some guys this year at some shows tell me to try either the Seagar or the P-Line. So maybe I’ll give it another go-around. It’s not like I fish a bunch of clear water lakes. Mostly river systems but I do fish Lake Michigan here by home. But I usually use Stren mono there. All my casting on the river is done with Power pro though.
i usully use about 10lb flouro on my crank bait rods. i usually dont throw them much, but the flouro sinks, and helps it dive a little bit. i would think pp would almost be better with the smaller line diameter, but i dont really like braid when you are dealing with treble hooks. unless you have an extremly whimpy rod, you tend to rip the hooks out with braid. flouro isnt neary as stretchy as mono, but it stretches some
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I don’t use floro or cast crankbaits on spinning reels.
-J.
Jon I don’t usually cast cranks with spinning rods either unless I’m throwing little ones shallow. Mostly with Curados or Citicas.
I find myself using fluoro for more applications but not much on spinning gear. Because of it’s stiffness it tends to spring off the spool. I find anything over 8-10lb test is the limit, and even then you need to be paying close attention to be sure the line is laying down properly on the spool. Also fluoro is stiffer in cold weather.
As far line diameter, most fluoro’s are as thick or thicker than mono of the same weight. I have a spool of 17 lb Silver Thead in hand and it list the diameter of .0145″.
John
I run 10# or 12# p-line floro on my bait casters when throwing cranks. I think the little bit of stretch with the floro versus zero stretch with braids seems to help keep the smaller trebel hooks in the fish and they dont come unbuttoned as easy. I go with 10# if Im fishing “clean” areas like sand or mud bottom but I use the 12# if Im in the rocks or there are Zebra Mussels. I throw my cranks on a medium action 7 footer. Just my .02
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I find myself using fluoro for more applications but not much on spinning gear. Because of it’s stiffness it tends to spring off the spool. I find anything over 8-10lb test is the limit, and even then you need to be paying close attention to be sure the line is laying down properly on the spool. Also fluoro is stiffer in cold weather.
As far line diameter, most fluoro’s are as thick or thicker than mono of the same weight. I have a spool of 17 lb Silver Thead in hand and it list the diameter of .0145″.John
I agree John and have the same experiences. Dean has been testing the new Stren 100% Flouro (flo blue above the water 
) and it is working very well so far on spin reels in cold weather (6# test).
I have used P-line Flouro for years as leader material on my spin rods for deep water plastics in clear water.
I used 12# Berkley 100% Flouro last season on my baitcasters for cranks and it worked very well but the temps were not severely cold. I could also pitch 3/16oz swim jigs w/o a problem.
I use LTB 70MF and LTB 68MXF rods and Quantum baitcasters.
i like 12-15 lb seaugar inviz-x or abraz-x when fishing cranks on baitcasters. the 12 lb is better when ur in more open water but a 15 helps when ur fishin around grass and wood. also the 15 lb has a little bit less stretch than the 12 lb so you can use that to your advantage to rip it out of grass and pulling it away from wood. I made the switch to fluoro for using spinnerbaits as well last year and i like that, just have to make sure you have a good backbone on ur rod
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I don’t use floro or cast crankbaits on spinning reels. I guess I assumed most of the bass guys used casting reel a majority of the time.
…And most of us don’t have water spike and a large drift sock in the “bass” boat 100% of the time either.
If I am throwing light cranks I will go to a spinning rod many times, especially in high wind conditions or working a crank high in the water column. Much easier to keep tip up with a spin rod than caster. If I am working low water column, bumping cover or stick baiting it will always be with a caster. I use braid in all conditions.
power pro both spinning and casting, Its not worth hearing the loud snap flourocarbon makes when your setting the hook on the hawg down below. 8, and 30lb
After thinking about how to manage fluoro on spinning gear, I think I can add something to help. When I cast with spinning tackle I pickup and release the line with my forefinger of the hand I’m holding the rod with. I have observed a lot of walleye guys use their opposite hand to release the line. As soon as I complete casting motion, I bring my opposite hand along side the reel where I can feather the line to control the length of the cast. At the end of the cast I put 1-2 fingers over the spool to stop all line movement, then I manually close the bale. If you use these steps you can minimize the problems with fluoro on spinning gear.
John 
I use both braid and floro on my baitcasters, reg mono and braid on spinning gear. Getting old and stuck in my ways I guess 
if you want it deep , fluoro , shallow , braid
pretty good question that gets asked quite a bit. being on a walleye board, we’ll have to first get to the fact that you may be trolling. I won’t get into that.
a far as casting crankbaits I’ve tried it all… I like floro but have had a problem casting in cold weather. Also had a problem with it breaking too easy on snags. But I really love the way you can feel the lure and the bottom. So I may throw floro at times. I’ve used 20-30# braid in the past and it has its place. works good in the weeds to tell you your lure is buggered up.
So when it comes down to it, 75% of the time I’ll have 12-15# mono on… I use P line floraclear. strong and hasen’t failed me. like it when that 15.00$ crankbait is hung up… better chance of getting it back.
I also throw crankbaits on a baitcaster full time.
I have had very very poor success on Crankbaits on braid.. to the point where I changed reels on my crankbait rod and immediately started catching bass..
and I don’t use flouro either..
I use AN40 Sliver thread.. 10 lb or 12 lb at most..
the only time I use a heavier line or rod is when I am tossing shallow compact balsa lures.. in laydowns..
then its 17 lb XT..
I use a mix of Power Pro and P-Line Flour Clear which I believe is a copolymer not full flouro.
I’ve used a lot of lines over the years for cranking walleyes. Right now I’m using Izorline Platinum #10 and it seems to be good line. I have a spool of #12 that I haven’t tried yet, but I will at some point.
There a lot of good line available right now with with the likes of Yo Zuri Hybrid, Sufix, Berkley Sensation, and Trilene Big Game, and McCoy’s to name a few.
I’ve used Powerpro and Sufix Performance Braid with success, but I like a softer rod especially with walleyes. I’ve had too many NICE ones tear the hooks out of their mouths on that last “power run” with a too stiff rod.
I’ll add I’ve never tried flouro. Not sure I want to with all of the knot-strength questionability. I’m not convinced enough to even try it.
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