Three ways……………..

If you clicked on this post with a big smile on your face………. PERVERT!!!

Seriously, I have never fished walleyes pulling a 3-way and was wondering exactly how it was done. I’ve read that the dropper for the weight should be 6-12 inches and the bait line can vary from 2 to 5 feet. Is this a standard rule-of-thumb? I am guessing that the baits should be floaters or suspenders instead of divers. I’ve also read that a jig and minnow can be used on the dropper (two baits on one line). Is this legal in Wis/Min boundary waters? Is this tecnique used in a vertical presentation or as a “long-line” presentation like trolling cranks?

I’m sure I will come up with more questions as this process moves forward so please bear with me. Thanks for any input.

Hopefully some good info comes from this thread….I’ve been searching old posts trying to find any hints that are out.

I like to start with an 18 inch drop to my sinker and 42 inch leader to my bait. Floating Rapala’s (#5’s to 11’s) are my favorite baits to pull. I like to pull a crawler harness later in the year with a 3 –way rig.

I will use anywhere from 1oz to 5oz lead, this depends on flow. I like to keep my line at as close to a 45 degree angle as possible. This helps prevent picking up a lot of grass and keeps the 3 way from becoming a tangled mess.

I like to use a lighter line on my drop to the sinker than the leader to the bait. The sinker is what will snag up 90 percent of the time and by using a lighter line to the sinker increases the chances of getting your stick bait back.

I normally run 10lb power pro all the way to the bait with 8 lb mono for my dropper. If I seem to be getting a lot of short strikes I will use a mono leader. I believe the stretch in this case helps the percentage of hook ups and fish to the boat. Setting the drag lighter will also help when encountering short strikes.

Using a heavy jig is legal on the boundary waters but counts as two hooks/lines/baits which is the limit of lines on the Minnesota side

I went back and pulled up a few old threads on this subject. There’s so much information here on IDO it amazes me!

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Here is a report I did a ways back with some info on how I run a 3-way.

3-way report

And it is all good stuff James

Here is a system I have used in place of the factory 3-way.

Starting with a high quality barrel swivel tie a fifteen in.dropper to your pencil weight,jig,
etc.

Slide the barrel with the weight through your main line and attach another barrel to your main line.

On the average I like to start around 6ft.for the length of line to my stick bait,of course that will vary with different situations.

This set up eliminates problems with line twist associated with factory 3-ways and also gives a person an added gain in feel when fishing with live bait instead of stick baits.

On really tough days this set up is outstanding when using a single bait hook with live bait,gives you a chance to hand feed those finicky biters with out them sensing the added weight of a 3-way.Kind of a built in lindy rig in a sense.

Line length and lb.test all vary but this is what I start at.
Sorry for the bad graphics too,hope you can see what I’m getting at.
This really is a dynamite set up with tons of options behind it

This set up would be illegal in Minnesota, unless the jig turns into a weight without a hook.

Pencil weights work well instead of the jig.
This rig is legal in Wisc.

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This set up would be illegal in Minnesota, unless the jig turns into a weight without a hook.

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Toolman you can use that setup on border waters

What is the advantage of pulling a floating rapala with a three way rig versus pulling a floating rapala on a bottom bouncer?

Pulling sticks with 3 ways lets you adjust the dropper weight length to allow your bait to run just off bottom.

Bottom bouncers don’t give you that.

Got it. Thanks.

What weight sinker would be typically used on the river? I know it depends on flow and current, but most years what weight would do the job? I would like to try this and don’t want to buy a million different weights if I can help it.

3oz is a good starting point for me with sticks. The key is to keep your line close to the 45-60 degree angle rule.

Jeff, I like that idea, I’m going to give that whirl this spring.

Right now in my area, a 1 oz weight is plenty, but that will change as the flow picks up.

Jeff-No offense, but your set-up looks like it would be a pain to tie. Also, with all the different knots, do you ever have problems with knot failures?

My set-up is just a standard 3-way swivel, with a line going to the weight and another to the Rapala. No line twist problems and everything runs true. Simple and effective

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What weight sinker would be typically used on the river? I know it depends on flow and current, but most years what weight would do the job? I would like to try this and don’t want to buy a million different weights if I can help it.

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Get some 1.5 and 2 Oz bells for livebait.

Get some 4, 5 and 6 oz bells for stickbaits. The total dollars invested will be under $10 and you’ll walk away with a heavy sack o’ lead.

QUOTE…..Jeff-No offense, but your set-up looks like it would be a pain to tie. Also, with all the different knots, do you ever have problems with knot failures?

No offense taken Am.
With the slip rig set up I am tying five knots which is the same you would tie with a 3-way.Knots have never been an issue (unless I get in a hurry )

I just noticed and maybe it is what buddy Wats missed also….the line just runs through the barrel with the dropper.

I am going to give the rig a try. I would imagine there to be less line twist and knotting that tends to happen after pulling the standard 3-way all day long.

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I just noticed and maybe it is what buddy Wats missed also….the line just runs through the barrel with the dropper.

I am going to give the rig a try. I would imagine there to be less line twist and knotting that tends to happen after pulling the standard 3-way all day long.

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That’s right Bret,that was a poor graphic that I drew up.

Now I know why I flunked art class

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I just noticed and maybe it is what buddy Wats missed also….the line just runs through the barrel with the dropper.

I am going to give the rig a try. I would imagine there to be less line twist and knotting that tends to happen after pulling the standard 3-way all day long.

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That’s right Bret,that was a poor graphic that I drew up.

Now I know why I flunked art class

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I think the drawing was good, but my eye’s are bad

I am making the change on my trolling rod tonight and giving it a shot this weekend.
Thanks for the diagram

Jeff, my question is why wouldn’t you just use these 3-way swivel this is what I use & I don’t get any line twisting with this.

I guess I just like the fact that the barrels will give the set up a slip sinker feel when the bite is tough.

Don’t get me wrong,I still use 3-ways with stick baits at times, have a tray full of them in my component box but for live bait and phelps floaters etc.I like the added touch that it offers.

Personal preference I guess

BTW, there are good and bad 3-ways out there,I’m sure you would agree that it doesn’t pay to skimp on junkie components. The Spro that you showed looks like a high quality 3-way.

Guys, thanks for the info!! I read all of the links front to back, and think I have gathered enough info to finally catch the first walleye or sauger on this technique. So far all I have done is snag sheephead!

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So far all I have done is snag sheephead!

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What’s wrong with the Sheepshead? They fight like mad and taste pretty darn good.

lol, well i guess it would be cooler if they were actually hitting the bait. I just don’t really like snagging fish that much

I tied up a trolling rig following the diagram Jeff Jensen provided and love it already
I see a lot of advantages with this set up over the standard 3-way swivel and haven’t even dropped it in the water yet, tonight it will be pulled around

Line twist will be a thing in the past for me with this set up.

I have to believe it will improve the hook up percentage also with the main line not really being attached to the drop sinker.

Thanks Jeff

Bret, I don’t understand what you mean by line twist I’ve never had that problem running the standard 3-way swivel. Also I don’t see how adding more knots into can be helpfull. I a standard 3-way setup you have 5 knots, but on the other you have 7 knots.

If I understand this properly, there’s only 5 knots. Hopefully my diagram is correct.

I’m sorry after seeing blue’s diagram, now I see what you are doing. Now I want to go try that setup.

Jeff when you have the weight touching the bottom can you feed a little line to move the floater away from the drop weight while keeping your 45 degree angle?

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If I understand this properly, there’s only 5 knots. Hopefully my diagram is correct.

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Thanks for the graphic Tom,couldn’t have done it better myself
The illustration shows the set-up perfectly

Mark,that’s the beauty of this rig.When you let up on the line after pulling it forward your baits will free fall back behind the weight of the dropper.How much they fall back I’m not sure.
Alot of guys have weighed in their thoughts on maintaining around a 45 deg.angle when running stix, most of the time this is pretty accurate,however,I love to long line this presentation with just enough weight to maintain contact with the bottom.Not the kind of contact where you can feel the weight “thunk” the bottom but to feel it just barely tickle the bottom at times.
Lots of possibilities with this set up,especially when finessing with live bait.
Let me know how it works out