Gearing up for open water

  • Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #1241633

    I’ve been spending the last couple days sorting gear and identifying what I’m missing or low on. As I’m finding a few broken bills, cracked bodies, hooks I missed for replacing…I just couldn’t help day dreaming about the next night that I get to dump the boat in and enjoy crank’n some eyes.
    I know there is plenty of ice yet to be drilled and explored. But there is definitely something that creates an adrenaline rush for me that can’t be matched when it comes to walleyes crushing crank baits in 39 degree water. Maybe it’s more being intrigued that all day walleyes will thump or tick plastics. Don’t get me wrong, Moxies, Pulse-Rs, ringworms, and other quality plastics are snatched up by some mighty big eyes. But it’s that flip of a switch at night when walleyes rise out of 12 to 20 feet of water and go absolutely nuts, just smashing cranks at times just inches below the surface.
    I’m also looking forward to exploring more water and finding the mini-ecosytems that are out there that most guys just drive by. I’m still fascinated by how different the presentation can be on each different river system I fish can be, yet so similar.
    Last year I had a lot of PMs asking for more assistance in locating the type of structure I look to crank on. For me it’s not only the general location, its what that location has to offer in relationship to the habits of the fish. I’m not an expert by any means on the Mississippi River – though it is where my heart is at.
    First, I like to know what specific attribute the fish want. Is it remnants of cattails, wood, clam beds, pea gravel, rock, or weeds. Next, its finding that attribute in areas of pockets, current breaks, isolated spots on a vast blank shoreline. Then I look at the the access to deep water. If I know the fish during the day are hanging in 16 to 20 feet, I look for near by areas that the fish will most likely move into – possibly as shallow as 2fow.
    My most aggressive feeding locations I hit tend to be a shelf as apposed to a gradual drop off. Possible a pocket along the main channel that offers a current break that is 1/2 to a 1/3 of the main channel current.
    On the Wolf river system, many fo these spots are the mouths to a slough or marsh. On the Miss, they seem to be more isolated around a subtle variation in the shoreline creating an eddy or seam.

    Transition spots like the beginning or end of rip/rap shores also provide ideal early feeding areas. Especially if there is timber or other attributes to the habitat for holding baitfish or other food offerings.

    Next is selecting which cranks I throw. Surprisingly, I think that has become the easiest task to figure out. I look at two things immediately. Profile and depth. The consistency I have found on different waters is the preference of body shape. When I used to wade the WI River. from Prairie Du Sac, long stick baits by far out produced shad raps. The Wolf River system has proved for me to be smaller sticks. The Mississippi most frequently for me has been body or taller profile baits. Now its just matching the depth range I want to cover. If I’m on a shelf that rises from 16 fow to 3 fow, I’ll generally start with something that will run 5′. After fanning across the shallow pocket, I’ll go to the 7′-10′ and work the drop off edge. Very seldom am I ever tossing anything that will track deeper than 12′.
    If I’m tossing along cattails or timber, I generally opt for a lipless or a bill design that will get me the tick/pause -release. A favorite thing to have has been suspending baits. Once I know the feel of the bottom, I’ll run a suspending Rainbow Smelt down until it is almost in the snag, then “work it” around and through without ripping it the snag.
    For color – I think that discussion could go on until the end of time. The last couple years I have become a huge fan of the more natural colors. “Match the hatch” type of thinking. Without a doubt, Pearls, Chartreuse, Purple, Orange, and so on have all had their place and time. In some places, they do get eaten more and I’m always open to roll with their program. They are biting it – not me.

    Anyways, I had some time to kill as I nurse a hangover and figured I’ll do something constructive
    So what do you look for to have success with early eyes on cranks?







    kwp
    Eden Prairie
    Posts: 857
    #1142620

    What kind of crankbaits do you like for river wingdams??

    I have found Bomber 6A’s to be pretty effective in orange and blue/chart. I haven’t tried rapala DT10’s but I plan to do so this yr.

    I have always wondered how lipless crankbaits would fish on wingdams (on top or the face)?? I would think they would be a little snaggy.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #1142621

    Quote:


    What kind of crankbaits do you like for river wingdams??

    I have always wondered how lipless crankbaits would fish on wingdams (on top or the face)?? I would think they would be a little snaggy.



    My favorite baits are:
    Kopper’s Live target – Gizzard shad – lipless
    Koppers Live target – Gizzard shad – w/bill
    Kopper’s Live Target – Rainbow Smelt (jerk bait)
    Storm small thundersticks – old original model
    Bomber Fat Free fingerling
    Shad Raps – with rear hooks replaced with a Gamakatsu white feathered hook

    As for lipless on the wing dams – learn to fish them like a blade bait or verticle jigging! They rock! That lipless gizzard shad is my money bait. Half the time I’m verticle jigging it along seams. Awesome bait – It balances out better than any other lipless I tried for clever jigging

    brad-o
    Mankato
    Posts: 410
    #1142626

    great read. Only need line selection now

    nhamm
    Inactive
    Robbinsdale
    Posts: 7348
    #1142627

    Fantastic read, thank you for it. I am looking forward to bottom bouncing the main channel edges with stick baits, looking to try those new flat raps, and the original floating in chart. And fire tiger. Get some of those post spawn females that are looking for deeper cover.

    Chuck Melcher
    SE Wisconsin, Racine County
    Posts: 1966
    #1142631

    I’ll second the great read! I don’t have anything to add… but it sure gets me wishing for time and opportunities to do the trial and error of learning it all.

    I’ve stocked up on flicker shads for Bago (casting)…. and hope to put some to good use on the rivers this year.

    Last fall I was on the WI river in my kayak (great new experience) either trolling upstream or casting shoreline breaks with a #5 silver or blue tiger flicker shad and had a great time. Walleyes, smallmouth, and a musky that took me for a heck of a ride in the current.

    I’m always afraid to work too close to what would most likely be productive structure… not wanting to give up that crank bait. Going to take some more chances with that this season.

    I like the ideal of “jigging” lipless cranks… like rattletraps and such. Caught my biggest northern ever doing that, and sort of forgot about trying it more often.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #1142637

    Quote:


    great read. Only need line selection now




    7′ Quantum Medium/fast rods (both spinning and casting)

    Tour edition reel

    Cajun braid – 15# or 20# on the spinning and 10# floro on the casting rods

    Barrel

    18-24″ of 10# floro & a snap

    If its freezing out, I soak my line in reel magic.

    Some may think that’s pretty heavy artillery; but when cranks get to be $10 – $14 a pop, I’m pulling it out!

    BBKK
    IA
    Posts: 4033
    #1142641

    Maybe you said this and I missed it.. but what are your favorite cranks for the first time out in the COLD water? I’ve never really done good on cranks until after the spawn.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #1142648

    Quote:


    Maybe you said this and I missed it.. but what are your favorite cranks for the first time out in the COLD water? I’ve never really done good on cranks until after the spawn.


    The list above is what I use shorty after ice out. I love the lipless gizzard shad because I can control so many aspects of it – depth, speed, action, and so on.
    If your not having success pre-spawn, 2 things 1. Location 2. confidence

    jsprosty
    Soldiers Grove, WI
    Posts: 58
    #1142671

    Great read randy! Can’t wait to get on the river.

    Joel Ballweg
    Sauk City, Wisconsin
    Posts: 3295
    #1142752

    Quote:


    Cajun braid – 15# or 20# on the spinning and 10# floro on the casting rods
    Barrel
    18-24″ of 10# floro & a snap

    Some may think that’s pretty heavy artillery; but when cranks get to be $10 – $14 a pop, I’m pulling it out!


    Actually Randy, I think your a little lite on the leader material.
    It’s common for us to run 20# fluorocarbon leaders when fishing jigs or cranks.
    I generally don’t use those expensive crankbaits but if I was, you can bet I would have nothing less than 20# leaders.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #1142778

    Joel, I don’t disagree with the heavier floro leader. I’ve just ran with a combo that works for me.

    Buut if your toss higher priced cranks (any for that matter) a good investment is a retriever.

    Fleet farm telescopic retriever

    Chris H
    Posts: 143
    #1142875

    Awesome post Randy! I have been doing the same thing lately.

    moxie
    Sioux City,IA
    Posts: 874
    #1146146

    Great read and tips, I always thought cranks wouldn’t work with more lethargic fishes in colder water but what do I know .. Gonna give it a try
    And one question you mentioned you don’t track deeper than 12FOW, is this just during prespawn?

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #1155300

    Quote:


    And one question you mentioned you don’t track deeper than 12FOW, is this just during prespawn?


    Just to clarify, I seldom run deeper than 12fow. Not always. But usually at night from prespawn through spawn, they move much shallower to feed. I also find that they will come up nearly 10 feet off the bottom to feed as well.

    Tom Sawvell
    Inactive
    Posts: 9559
    #1155416

    Great information here. I’ve often thought that maybe walleyes get energized when the water temps start to inch uphill. Crappies do after only a degree or two rise from the winter, under-the-ice, water temps. The difference in the fish’s willingness to hit larger more aggressive baits is uncanny and on a couple occasions I have have some “accidental” walleyes come along and hammer what I am tossing to these crappies and as Randy has mentioned, the hits are well off the bottom.

    Good reading and learning stuff. Thanks for starting this thread Randy.

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