I would say that the best way to convert more figure8 fish is to change depth and speed. When you start your 8 at the boat I like to burry my rod as far as I can and when I start to make the first outside turn I’ll rip the bait high on the outside then back deep on the inside. Just keep changing depth and speed.
Also try to read the fishes mood if they come in hot (mouth open fins out ) that’s a fish that eats boat side. If they come in low and slow go with a mix of fast and slow 8’s but keep the bait at the same depth and don’t stop till you can’t go around any more I’ve caught a few low and slow fish on my 15th-20th time around.
Went to the Musky expo and got talked into buying a 8’6″ rod, have to admit it makes figure 8’s easier.
What works?
What ever gets them to hit the lure, try fast then slow, try shallow, then deep, vary the presentation and if all else fails have your buddy throw whatever he/she/it has in front of the fish.
I usually run the drag lighter than most so when a fish nails it at the boat, they can usually pull off some line before I set the hook.
Having the drag cranked down and setting the hook at the boat can tend to have lures come back at ya.
Al
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I usually run the drag lighter than most so when a fish nails it at the boat, they can usually pull off some line before I set the hook.
Having the drag cranked down and setting the hook at the boat can tend to have lures come back at ya.Al
That shouldn’t be an issue on the figure 8 unless you’re leaving 6 or 7′ of line out for each pass! As long as the amount of line at the end of the rod is less than the rod length, you’re safe. Also, set the hook toward the fish’s tail. You’ll get better hookups and the lure won’t come out of the water on the set.
Also, most of the new lines only have 2-3% stretch. If you’re 100′ out, that’s 2-3′ of line stretch on the hook set with your drag cranked completely down. That’s not a lot of room for error.
With those things in mind, does it make sense to have your drag at full lock down on the retrieve and then pause to loosen it just for the figure 8? Personally, I think it’s a lot easier and takes very little effort to keep the drag on lock down until you get strike. After the hook up, take a split second to ease off the drag and then fight the fish.
dream’n:
Every one’s advice is spot on, but what you have to remember is that Moose is a very dark lake so your knowing a fish is there with you is not going to be so easy!!! That makes an 8 after retrieve even more imperative!!! It may also make you do your 8 a little higher in the water column so you might get a hint as to there being a fish there. The other thing about deep 8’s on Moose is to know how deep you are and whether or not you have wood in the vicinity.
As for loose drag/tight drag thing, that is something you are going to have to determine… I usually keep mine tight so that long hooksets are not a problem, but hooksets in the 8 may become one. I do hit the freespool and 8 with thumb pressure holding the bait. Make sure you do not have too much line out, typically 6″ to a foot of line before the leader. If you get cracked boatside I have heard of guys getting their thumb pinched in the spool, but having the ability to give the fish some line before engaging the reel again seems worth it to me. Good luck and be safe on Moose, it is great musky water!!!
Mark
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Quote:
I usually run the drag lighter than most so when a fish nails it at the boat, they can usually pull off some line before I set the hook.
Having the drag cranked down and setting the hook at the boat can tend to have lures come back at ya.Al
That shouldn’t be an issue on the figure 8 unless you’re leaving 6 or 7′ of line out for each pass! As long as the amount of line at the end of the rod is less than the rod length, you’re safe. Also, set the hook toward the fish’s tail. You’ll get better hookups and the lure won’t come out of the water on the set.
Also, most of the new lines only have 2-3% stretch. If you’re 100′ out, that’s 2-3′ of line stretch on the hook set with your drag cranked completely down. That’s not a lot of room for error.
With those things in mind, does it make sense to have your drag at full lock down on the retrieve and then pause to loosen it just for the figure 8? Personally, I think it’s a lot easier and takes very little effort to keep the drag on lock down until you get strike. After the hook up, take a split second to ease off the drag and then fight the fish.
If you can keep the lure at the rod tip true, but I see a fair amout of people with enough line out at the boat to hook them or someone else in the boat.
I keep my drag looser than most and have no problems hook setting, little thumb on the spool at hook set and your set.
I’m betting I have lost less fish than those I fish with that have the drag set at max.
Does seems to be 2 schools of thought though, and which ever one works for you is what you should use.
Al
Thanks everyone, maybe I can get one to go and get some boatside action. I will report when I return.
Dream’n
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… does it make sense to have your drag at full lock down on the retrieve and then pause to loosen it just for the figure 8? Personally, I think it’s a lot easier and takes very little effort to keep the drag on lock down until you get strike. After the hook up, take a split second to ease off the drag and then fight the fish.
I always wondered why you wouldn’t set your drag fairly tight…but loose enough that it gives slightly on a hook set…and then just ‘add thumb’ pressure to ‘lock it down’ on the hookset…
this way, once the hooks were ‘in’ at boat side…the fish could surge and take line…but you would always get ‘positive’ hook sets?
seems cumbersome to pause/change drag just before the boat…
I like mine a bit loose too 
Put the thumb on the spool, so the drag doesn’t slip. Then just let the fish peel off some drag 
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