I recently purchased a new eskimo hc40 propane auger and I had a problem with it starting. Before you pull your hair out there is a air purge button on top of the carburetor plate it is a tiny hole in the middle of the plate.Use a toothpick or small screw driver and press the button to release the air.Then connect the tank and turn the button to on and squeeze the throttle lever half way and 1 or 2 pulls and you should be fine.
20150217_170132.jpg
20150217_170153.jpg
Good tip ive read a few times now of guys a little mad theirs wouldn’t start.
I’m having problems with my Pro4 lite jiffy and thinking I should of went with the Eskimo…maybe not..sounds like an easy fix tho.
Hopefully it will be a helpful post,I know that I was at a loss with it being a brand new machine and it wouldn’t start especially when we have a trip planned for this weekend. I will post how it worked from what I have read there are alot of positive reviews all I know is it sure will be better than the old reliable hand auger lol my arms are still sore from last weekends trip.
Here is my update on the Eskimo hc40 propane auger, I’ve used it on 3 trips so far and probably drilled over 75 holes and im still on my first tank of gas. I have drilled through ice from 15 inches to 20+ with no problems at all. The machine works fantastic,i haven’t had any problems with it starting even in the cold,the coldest I have used it in has been between 5°to -5° maybe colder with the wind chill and it fires right up even after sitting. I went with the 10inch and it does have a little weight to it but its easy to put it in the sled to drag around. I would rate this machine as excellent and I wouldn’t be afraid to purchase another one.
I really like my hc40. After having my first hc40 fail I was unsure of my future with this unit. But after receiving great customer service from eskimo and a brand new unit shipped fast, I am a happy fisher.
I use mine about every other day, drill lots of holes in all conditions. No regrets about sticking with the hc40 for the long run.
I agree there customer service is really good ,I had a small bend in the regulator where you screw in the propane tank ,I called them and they sent me one right out and I had it in a few days. Its nice to see a company stand by there equipment and not give you the normal run around.
Thanks much. Worked like a champ when I tried your tip. And I love that Eskimo Propane Auger
Thanks for this great insight. I have the same model. First use was excellent. Second time out would not start.
With the advice here I used the air bleed.
Only with the throttle fall will it start … but not run or idle. Short burst and quit. This is more than I had but not eliminate the issue. Then auger will not start until I bleed air again. Then short burst and quit. Have tried full throttle, half throttle, no throttle.
Thanks for any help.
Maybe try a different can of propane?? Just a thought.
All- I believe this is the issue found in another thread. Thank you.
Did you store it in the off season upright and with oil in it? I had a similar issue with my Jiffy Pro4 Lite before I got rid of it and got the HC40. I had to take the carb apart and clean some residual oil that I think was in there from the manufacturer. It had a tendancy to kill while I was drilling a hole or shortly afterwards, it seemed hesitant when I’d give it gas. I then had problems starting my HC40 last year after I replaced the oil from the previous year. It was really hard to pull the first time, like it was stuck. I found out here, and confirmed with Eskimo, that even though their manual says you can store it upright for storing, you can’t if there’s oil in it, as it will get into the carb. So now I drain the oil before storing it, then put new oil in at the beginning of the season.
Thanks for sharing the tip. I have had my HC40 for years and never had a problem with it. I do store it on its side with the arrow saying up up. ½ pull then full pull it starts every time no matter how long it sits for.
CONFIRMED –
I removed the air cover/foam filter which gives you access to two nuts. Remove them. This allows you to pull off the lower air filter housing along with the carb and gasket. Leave carb hang by fuel line.
Use a couple q-tips to clean the intake tunnel. Throughly clean the air filter box interior and dry. It was oily all through this area. I used dish soap on the cover when removed.
Reassemble.
Starts on first or second pull again.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
