Terrova install

Going to bite the bullet and purchase the Terrova 101 Ipilot this weekend. You guys got any pointers I should know about before I install it?
Thanks Mark

congrats!!! may suck on the pocket book but well worth it when on the water

http://www.odysseybattery.com/
Match it with some good batteries and you will have done it right.
Skeeter Boat Center carries them as does Batteries Plus.

Run heavy gauge wire from the batteries to the motor. Make sure you have the in-line 60 amp breaker with it as well. Other than that, it’s pretty simple.

All of this is reguarding a 24V system. I’m sure wire and breakers will be different for a 36v.

Wire– electrical current actually flows on the surface of wire. That said a braid is best espicially one composed of smaller guage wires. I actually found it cheaper to buy jumper cables (which were 8ga for the 24v) and just cut the clamps off. Also automotive stores will sell pre made jumper wires for hooking paralleling the 3 batteries to get 36v.

Breakers- don’t forget to buy. I belive one should suffice but don’t quote me.

Plug attachments – I did replace mine upon install.

Base plate mount- I assume you are making it removable?

I used the minkota block style (foget the model #) and the additional base plate. Don’t forget to back the mounting bolts there is a lot of torque.

You will LOVE the ipilot and the 36v.
-Mark

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I actually found it cheaper to buy jumper cables (which were 8ga for the 24v) and just cut the clamps off.

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That’s a fantastic tip!

Depends on what you had on your boat prior to the new one. i just replaced my 05′ 80lb powerdrive with a new 80 terrova with I-pilot and I didn’t have to do any rewiring from the receptacle to the batteries (breaker already in place. so just put on the correct plug on the i-pilot power cord and good to go.

i was hoping not to have to drill new holes for the mounting plate as it used the same one for the terrova but I found the plate needed to be closer to the edge of the boat for the terrova to hang off the side correctly.

remember to measure twice and drill once!

Converting from a 24 vdc system to the 36 vdc system. I know I’ll need to replace the 8 ga wire with 6 ga and install the breakers other then that any other worries you can think of…? Oh yes I do plan on getting all new batteries…boy that will hurt

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Converting from a 24 vdc system to the 36 vdc system. I know I’ll need to replace the 8 ga wire with 6 ga and install the breakers other then that any other worries you can think of…? Oh yes I do plan on getting all new batteries…boy that will hurt

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I believe that’s about it. Those batteries are going to hurt the pocket book though.

Thanks guys if I have any $$$ left over I’ll go fishing

The iPilot is voltage sensitive. Make sure you use 6 ga wire, 60 amp breaker and good batteries all the same age / condition.

I have only one major pointer……
Once you install the Terrova, try not to laugh at everyone else who hasn’t got one.
It’s not fair, but as they say membership has it’s priviledges.

Actually the 101 Terrova 36 volt only draws 36 amps max so your 8 gauge wire should be fine. The Terrova 80 24 volt draws 56 amps max that is when 6 gauge needs to be installed.

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Actually the 101 Terrova 36 volt only draws 36 amps max so your 8 gauge wire should be fine. The Terrova 80 24 volt draws 56 amps max that is when 6 gauge needs to be installed.

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Trust me as I’m not trying to stir the pot! But you might want to check your resources before making a statement in the matter of fact.

The 101 Terrova does require at least 6 gauge stranded marine grade wire drawing 46 volts at full power needing 60 amp breakers (50 amp is marginal). I researched this whole lot 1 1/2 years ago when I first heard of the I-Polit in the 101 Terrova. Not only did I get it from online resources from Maine to California, and Canada to Australia but, From Minnkota!

I wired mine last March according to manufactures directions, (MINNKOTA). I installed the first complete unit sold from BPS, a Minnkota 101 Terrova 36V US/2 with I-Polit in a 60in shaft that they had sold.

Sir, I think your information is wrong.

Sorry for the rant, but that was misinformation. Chastise me, or strict this from the record books if I’m incorrect.

Guys, Please do not think I’m a know it all cause I absolutely don’t. But, I dislike information that is put out to help people that is given incorrect. If I have offended anyone, then I apologize.

My research on this topic was extensive not only in the product but the complete install as well.

DennyO

OOOps sorry it was 46 amps ME BAD.

How can it draw 46 volts on a 36 volt system? I think you meant 46 amps.

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DennyO

OOOps sorry it was 46 amps ME BAD.

How can it draw 46 volts on a 36 volt system? I think you meant 46 amps.

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Yes my bad as well, I over looked that mistake more than once, as I proof read my posting more than once.

Tom, I apologize for coming across so strong. I got a bit bugged last night at some other stuff I was reading and seeing way too much miss information that was being put out. Guess I got week and had to vent. Again, I apologize.

I was born and raised as a plumber and trained as a carpenter. Correct information and learning is how I’ve trained in my life. That allows me to make my own decisions intelligently being informed correctly. As a company owner and a site superintendent in the commercial construction field, correct information is not only mandatory but, it is a must!

I really tire of forums when a poster states “never had a problem” in a particular circumstance and many others chime in with the same words, only to hear later “well you should expect some of that”. Dag nibity nabbed, Never Means Never!! Then comes miss information, well,,,,,,,that could potentially do someone damage or add cost to their issue, or wish they had done something completely different.

Anyway I got to dismount from the pony. Guess I had to vent last night and you seemed to have been in front of my windshield at that particular time. Again I’m sorry.

Denny O

Those darn Iowa people

Some great info posted here guys!

One thing I suck at is electrical stuff. Not totally but enough that I know to get help.
When I finally break down and get the Minn Kota I-pilot, I will have to remember to pull this post back up for reference.

Hey Joel, I just put mine on today. Piece of cake. Let me know when you want to go out and play with it.

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Going to bite the bullet and purchase the Terrova 101 Ipilot this weekend. You guys got any pointers I should know about before I install it?
Thanks Mark

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Well are you up and starting your day yet?
Todays the day! Daddy got his “New Baby” yet?

Got tired of biting my tongue the more I read here. Not one to offer advise often and wasn’t even registered to post but couldn’t take it the more I read. After 27 yrs of investigating fires caused by amatuer electricians take this for what it’s worth
1) If the manufacturer recommends or requires 6 gauge wire and a 60 amp circuit….use it. They have tested their product six ways to sunday under every imaginable circumstance.
2) Smaller conductor wiring carrying the same load = more resistance. More resistance = more heat. More heat = damage -to the wiring, connections and motor and maybe…fire!
3) Smaller conductors = less current (amps), less amps burns up motor.(and voids warranty)
4) Stranded wire (jumper cables) are cheaper because of basic economics of copper. Bigger solid conductor cost more, but solid conductors will carry more load than an equivalent size stranded one. (look at your typical house wiring….hopefully it’s all solid conductor 14 or 12 ga) Stranded is used where repetative bending and flexing is required (lamp cord) which is not the case on your boat from battery to plug. Your run it one time, bend it to fit one time, tie it up and forget it.
5) (This one I loved) “Electricity only flows on the surface of the wires” Tell ya what. I’ll insert an insulated probe into the center of a heavy gauge, solid core conductor so that it’s not touching the surface as it passes out to the exterior and bare the end. you hold on to it while I plug the conductor into my dryer outlet and we won’t have to worry about you being around to repeat that nonsense.

It always amazes me that someone would spend $1300 or so on a new trolling motor….only to short change the performance and safety (let alone void the warranty) over $40 wirth of wire and circuit protection. It’s like buying a NASCAR stock car body and putting a volkswagen engine in it. Looks nice and was cheaper….but will never run right!
I’m done, just couldn’t resist this one. Sorry.

Great first post!, great contribution to the thread Welcome!

I know a fair bit about electricity, I know almost nothing about wiring.

So I picked up a 36 volt Marinco plug the other day. This plug will except up to a 8 ga wire so number 6 ga is out of the question. The rating of the conductor and it’s insulation is what determinds the amount of current it’s rated for. If I run number 8 ga THHN copper single conductors in free air (Not conduit). NEC states that conductor can safely handle 70 amps at 167 deg F.

Just a question,
what is the differance between, marine wire versus other?

Marine stranded versus other?

I understand thhn opper wire.

conductor size and insulation rating THWN is what I’m going to use it’s rated for wet locations