Wingdam Crank Rod

I have been wanting to get a baitcast setup for throwing cranks to walleyes on wing dams –I think I will finally get around to it this year. I’d like to get some rod recommendations.

I need something that will throw light baits, say a #7 shad rap or a hair heavier, up to something like a DT14. It will have to have a fairly moderate/soft action to help with snags and keeping fish pinned. I’m thinking long and light, like 7’6″-8′ (closer to 8′ might be good) medium power, with a moderate or mod fast action. The new 7’4″ glass St. Croix mojo looks like a serious contender. I also threw a 9′ Avid steelhead rod last year that i liked, so there could be options in that category. Many others just seem too heavy — more geared towards bass fishing, which makes sense given the small number of guys who want to throw walleyes cranks with a baitcaster. Any ideas?

Oh yeah, and how about reels?

Thanks for any thoughts/suggestions.

I throw cranks at wingdams a ton. One suggestion I have is to seriously look at spinning rods for this. My arm always gets tired much faster with a baitcaster. I find a 7′ + rod with a big spinning reel works very well.

I use the cheapo Rapala 7′ Medium action sportsman rod with a big Pflueger Trion. I cast #7 shad raps a long ways with this rig, but usually use either jointed shads or bulkier baits like bombers etc….

I don’t skimp on equipment but this set up works well enough that I haven’t felt like I was missing anything. I usually sit 20+ yards above a dam and the spinning rod will almost always cast way over the top of the rocks (except in a strong south wind).

For what it’s worth, I have a Skeet Reese (wright mcgill) s-glass 7′ crankbait rod and an old shimano curado reel spooled with 14lb fluor/ green fireline and it throws anything from flicker shads to heavy bombers. (i believe they also make a 7’10” inch model as well). if that wind is blowing out of the south i’d go with the 7′ spinning rod as suggested in the earlier post. i really like the set-up i have and the rod is guaranteed for life and runs about $80-90.

I saw those skeet reese rods in the Bass Pro catalog. I thought they seemed a bit heavy, but if you’re throwing flicker shads with the 7’er they can’t be too bad. Thanks for the recommendation!

I have a bunch of spinning rods I use for cranks. I’m just looking to add to the arsenel. It would probably get used for heavier cranks more often than not, but rarely for anything a bass guy would consider heavy. I love the X-Rap Shads, for example, but the big one is a little on the heavy side for a spinning rig. Same deal with the DT series. When you get to a DT10 it’s putting a ton of wear on a spinning reel to crank it back to the boat … and anything bigger is almost out of the question.

Lamiglass Makes nice cranking rods. You can get them light and heavy with the parabolic bend that you are looking for – as to not pull hooks.

Check our their site.

Dog

For the last two years I have been useing a 7′ Ambassadeur Tournament Grade medium action rod for throwing cranks on wingdams and pulling 3-ways. It’s a fairly soft rod with a slow curve but plenty of strength. I use 8lb. test and have no trouble at all landing big fish. I pull alot of small crankbaits on 3-ways and the softer action of these rods keeps from pulling those small hooks loose. Wal-mart sells these rods for around 30 to 35 dollars. They seem to be the best I have found for this type of fishing. Find a bait caster that still has a ‘Flippn Switch’. It makes it alot esier to run two rods at once.

I’m using baitcasters for virtually all wingdam fishing on P2. Everything from 1/8 oz jig/plastic to big DT-10 raps. I don’t think one rod will do it all.

A good starting point would be a St Croix Premier PC70MLF paired up with a decent reel like a Shimano Curado. (This is one combo I never leave home without) You will be able to toss the light stuff no problem. The heavy cranks will load this rod up more than it is designed for.

I really disagree with the statement saying a baitcaster will tire your arm out faster. I think its all in technique. Keep that casting elbow tucked into your ribs and let the rod do the work. Go all day no problems!

-J.

A Dawia Pixie is a great light crankbait baitcasting reel.

take a look at the Loomis crankin rods. I’ve got a 7ft heavy (which is more like a MH) that has proved to be a pretty sweet rod for anything up to a DT10.

Can’t wait to try out my new crankbait casting rod – St Croix Premier 7′ graphite medium moderate (PC70MM) Paired it with Diawa’s TD Viento. Anyone use either? I also got a new trolling reel and figured the rod would double as a good long line trolling rig since it is similar to the 7’6″ tidemasters so many on this site use.

Quote:

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St Croix Premier 7′ graphite medium moderate (PC70MM) Paired it with Diawa’s TD Viento.

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I agree with your thinking there. That is going to be a very versitle rod getting a lot of use!

-J.

I have a Legend Tournament MM 7` I do not like it for cranks and that is what I bought it for. For me the tip is a little too soft it is hard to feel when the crank ticks a rock or object. I can see the tip flex but it dose not transfer to the rod. Around weeds the tip being softer lets the crank stop for a split second ( while the rod loads some to pull the crank free )which allows the crank to hang up in weeds. I would rather have a stiffer tip for cranks.

My Two Cents

IMO you’re wise to go with a slightly softer rod. Not only for launching the crankbaits, but I found through painful experience that the bigger walleyes will often tear the hooks out of their mouths on those last desperate power dives near the boat, and they are often lightly hooked. I use a St. Croix 7′ “Big Cranker” for Bombers, DT’s, and generally “denser” crankbaits that can punch through the wind. It’s tough to cast size 7 and below Shadraps with consistency with baitcasters, so I have a somewhat limber 7 1/2 foot spinning rod with braid set up for the balsa crankbaits of that size.