Jackplate ???

  • Boone04
    Fountain city, WI
    Posts: 321
    #1237415

    Hi guys Im thinking about getting a jackplate for my boat this year. Wondering if I should spend the money and get a hydraulic or a manual plate and what should I look for or what should I stay away from. Im running a ranger r83 with a 175 evinrude. Or does it pay not to put one on my boat and save my money.

    Randy Wieland
    Lebanon. WI
    Posts: 13475
    #774808

    I would go hydrolic. Since you run your boat in different conditions everytime the wind blows, you can make those minor adjustments. A manual plate is stationary when set

    lax79
    La Crosse, WI
    Posts: 124
    #774683

    Boone,

    I have one that came off my r83. It is manual and I am willing to sell.

    Boone04
    Fountain city, WI
    Posts: 321
    #774875

    Quote:


    I would go hydrolic. Since you run your boat in different conditions everytime the wind blows, you can make those minor adjustments. A manual plate is stationary when set


    I guess im still a way newbie on this subject. So on the hydrolic I understand you can move it up and down but what would the advantage of it being jacked up and set down in the water. Can somebody give me and example of when i’d need it up/down?

    James Holst
    Keymaster
    SE Minnesota
    Posts: 18926
    #774886

    Quote:


    Quote:


    I would go hydrolic. Since you run your boat in different conditions everytime the wind blows, you can make those minor adjustments. A manual plate is stationary when set


    I guess im still a way newbie on this subject. So on the hydrolic I understand you can move it up and down but what would the advantage of it being jacked up and set down in the water. Can somebody give me and example of when i’d need it up/down?


    There’s some advantage to be had when running shallow or BIG water. For most guys the desire to install a jack plate is not 100% about gaining speed.

    Here’s a couple examples… Running the WI channel when the sandbar near the cabins is all but impassable. Jack it up once you’re on plane and flying and gain critical clearance.

    Running big waves… leave the motor trimmed about 3/4 and run the jack plate down. This gives incredible”nose up” bow control which is great when running in big water at speed + with your motor down your prop won’t blow out between waves. I think we all know what happens when you trim up and run rollers at speed and the prop blows… eventually the bow comes down hard between a couple big ones and some of the water is coming over the bow. Or worse the prop blows and before you can get the prop to grip again you take a big gulp over the transom from a following wave.

    Boone04
    Fountain city, WI
    Posts: 321
    #774957

    Thanks for the great examples that really helps me out. Thanks again guys.

    bassmaster
    SE, MN
    Posts: 464
    #775374

    All the above is great advice. I would also spend the money on a water pressure gage if you don’t already have one. With a hydrolic jackplate it is possible to run the motor so high it won’t pick up enough water to keep from over heating. watching a water pressure gage will let you know if you are getting enough. Also keep in mind that your boat will change how it handles greatly with a hydrolic jackplate. So if you get one take it easy and get a feel for how the boat handles befor you start realy testing it out. Go with the hydrolic you won’t be sorry.

    francisco4
    Holmen, WI
    Posts: 3607
    #776095

    I am not trying to hijack your thread, but any broad ideas on cost with installation of a hydraulic jackplate?

    Thanks,

    FDR

    Boone04
    Fountain city, WI
    Posts: 321
    #776160

    Quote:


    I am not trying to hijack your thread, but any broad ideas on cost with installation of a hydraulic jackplate?

    Thanks,

    FDR


    No dont worry about it. I was about to ask the same question. Anybody have a rough idea on price?

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