Quote:
The cavitation plate on the kicker should be at or just below the hull. For many many boats, that means you’re looking at a 20″ shaft on your kicker. My Crestliner 1750 and my Ranger 1860 both took a 20″ kicker.
I think the ProV has a 25″ transom, but that’s measured at midline, not off to the side where a kicker would be mounted.
Here’s what I would do: contact your nearest Lund dealer. Ask them what kicker shaft length they typically hang on the ProV. My gut tells me it’ll be 20″.
I was pretty sure I needed the 25″ model based on talking with a few guys I know. It wasn’t until I started calling around to a few Lund and Mercury dealers that I started getting all the conflicting info regarding 20″ vs. 25″. I’m always a litte skeptical of what’s good info, and what’s just the salesman trying to sell me what he has left over in stock.
I’m still leaning strongly toward the 25″, I figure if a guy is going to go wrong, too long is better than too short. It’s not like the motor will be moving the boat at anywhere near planing speed where the position of the cavitation plate would become really important, in fact it seems to me, deeper into the water is better, especially for reversing, so the thrust isn’t just hitting the transom. So as long as it will tilt up out of the water when the boat’s on plane, I guess I don’t see a downside to the 25″.
I’d like to hear about it though if there is one.
Thanks,
Waxy
P.S. Dandorn, thanks for the PMs.