Brakes on a surge brake System.

I happened to look in my Reservoir the other day to see there was nothing in there! Is there a way to “bleed” the air out or do ya just fill it back up again. I can’t see how you’d bleed them if there’s no pressure on the system. Anyone have any Ideas?

Maybe someone would be able to shed some light for me on this as well.

Master cylinder is shot, trailer sat for years and was bone dry. The actuator came back to life for me after i removed and compressed decompressed a few dozen times, hopefully fixes the large clunking noise when taking off/braking.

My issue is can you/need to clean the brake lines before installing new cylinder? Shouldn’t the new fluid clean it enough when bleeding them? My fear is the lines are shot as well. Only way to know is hook up new cylinder and have a go at em?

Thanks for any info

Get yourself a pressure bleeder and flush the actuator and lines with fresh fluid.

But the real question is, where did the previous brake fluid go?

Marine Bleeders and extractors

HRG

are your brakes disc or the old wheel cylinder type?? if a line is not rusted out,it could be leaking at the master cylinder rod or the wheel cylinders.
either way when you are done,get yourself an old pump type oil can,hook it to a piece of hose and then hook the hose to the bleeders one at a time and pump brake fluid back to the master.
this is the easiest way I have found when doing it yourself.

if it were mine and you find it needs a complete rebuild,I would convert it to electric brakes,takes a bit of time but is easy to do,my two cents.

Good question on where the old fluid went. Hoping bc the master was rusted to all heck it left somewhere there. Other than minor surface rust on the line by hitch, all of those and connections look great.

Brakes are drum. All the parts are moving and in order on that end. Not going to electric, to much extra money, just want to have that ER lever work in worse case scenario.

By all accounts I thought brakes were working for a few longer road trips now. Had the clunking but the hitch had good enough pressure going in/out I thought all was ok. No noticeable stopping distance change. But putting in the new bearings showed the no wear on pads and after attempting to bleed noticed had larger issues. Learning as I go here.

The actuator is a solo unit separate from lines that rides underneath by the ball coupling on mine making life easy.