Hope to be fishing the “big” river below Genoa end of March (first time river fishing) , prob mostly drifting, but would like to know what is a suitable anchor for fishing that time of year. I realize the flow can vary significantly. Using an 18 ft Lund. Thanks for any advice. Discovered this site 3 days ago.
Welcome to the site! 
I’m sure alot of people are out fishing but you should get some great replies really soon.
Welcome Harolde
Alot of guys like the water spike and richter anchors.
Personally I like using the spring loaded digger.A little on the pricey side but the release mechanism built in is well worth it. I have had one in my fiberglass for close to 10 yrs.now without having to replace it 
A general rule for an anchor is ,if you have any doubts,go bigger,not smaller.There is nothing more frustrating than slipping down on top of the fish you are after.
Also,give yourself plenty of rope to work with and fasten about a 3ft.piece of log chain from your rope to the anchor.This makes for a much faster grab 
Welcome Harolde, I have a 16 ft. Sylvan and use a 30# anchor it holds my boat in most river situations.I also use a 20# second anchor from the back sometimes.Words of advice though be carefull whenever anchoring from the front or back,but especially the back because if something big enough comes floating down river and catches on your anchor line it could pull your boat down.I always have a knife handy to cut the line if I would need to.Have fun fishing the river but be carefull.
Why? I don’t fish that area. Is it just to busy or do they do something at the dam that the current is just to fast?
If you want to be able to anchor anywhere in anything get one of these BEARCLAW ANCHORS and one of these ANCHOR RETRIEVAL SYSTEMS
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If you want to be able to anchor anywhere in anything get one of these BEARCLAW ANCHORS and one of these ANCHOR RETRIEVAL SYSTEMS
$160 to $190 for the whole works not counting shipping. 
You can get the 15 Lb WaterSpike Anchor System the largest one they make for $55. I think I will stick with my Waterspike and put the extra $135 in my pocket.
I have used virtually every anchor type made over the years. Most styles of anchor will work adequately for you if you go heavy enough. That being said, the Waterspike is the only anchor I will carry in my boat. It holds in any condition and it weigh a lot less than most other anchors. This is huge when jumping form spot to spot pulling and dropping the anchor dozens of times in a day’s fishing. Another bonus with the Waterspike is it rarely gets hung up on bottom. Couple with a length of rope and a section of heavy chain, this is truely an all purpose anchor.
The only way I fish…or at least 90 % of the time…I’m anchored.
Like Lenny said…the waterspike is the way to go on the river. Many times I’ve anchored in the wood and couldn’t pull it out by hand. Just a little tug with the boat going up stream pulls it free.
I do carry a 16 pound anchor to hold the back of the boat though.
Lenny, what is Dean selling them for? I think it was $59.00??
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Lenny, what is Dean selling them for? I think it was $59.00??
Something like that. I know he always has them in stock. I haven’t kept up on the prices since I bought mine from him. Unlike many of my other anchors, I am not real worried about losing this one to the river gods.
Thanks to all for the timly responses. Seems like the anchoring issue can nicely be resolved with the “Waterspike”. I’m familiar with the Danforth style, and this adds that great sliding ring for difficult removal situations. harolde
Another vote for waterspike. If you’re near Redwing, MN stop in and pick one up from Dean at Everts Resorts.
Not to hijack the thread but has anyone had any problems with the waterspike holding over rock as compared to the richter?
I haven’t had any trouble with my spike holding on anything. Soft, hard, sand, rock, clean, snaggy, whatever. The spike is a big anchor, not as easily stored as some of the other choices, but I want to stick when I thrown the hook.
Being this is an anchor thread, I have a question. I see they make a coated chain to hook up to your anchor on one end and your rope on the other. I have no idea what this chain would be for other than if the anchor got hung up the chain would prevent any cuts whereas the rope could get severed. That is if there is something rubbing on the chain. Do I stand correct?
I hardly ever anchor. I think the chain gets the anchor down faster (added weight) and also lays the anchor over to dig in quicker? Thats my guess. I’m sure some river rats will jump in and give us the straight poop. 
That’s about right. The chain helps hold the anchor down in current for better digging action. I imagine it would help with anchor retrieval if it got tangled up in some debris.
I have 100′ of rope, a section of plastic coated anchor chain (to cut down on noise) and then the big spike.
you need a chain when you are fishing shoals or jagged rocks, where the rope will rub against the rocks on a windy day and cut you off.
A 15# waterspike and 150′ of 5/8 inch rope is the ticket on the river… or anywhere else for that matter. The richters hold pretty good, I’ll give you that. But you can count on losing at least one a season as their release system just doesn’t work well. I’ve had the same waterspike for over 10 years… and it just keeps doing the job.
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you need a chain when you are fishing shoals or jagged rocks, where the rope will rub against the rocks on a windy day and cut you off.
I was thinking something in that line. But some of the guys mentioned that it will help lay down the anchor and dig better.
You learn something new everyday. 
I like the Richter. Holding has never been an issue, period. I mostly fish the river and do not use a chain…I rarely (if ever) anchor on rocks that could cut the rope. It is plastic coated and has no sharp edges so I don’t worry about nicking the boat or even scatching the compartment it rides in. Just another view…never used a water spike.
OK, since we are getting into the nitty gritty of river anchoring let me ask a question of James or Jason or Lenny or one of you Pool 4 regulars. I use a waterspike with a chain and it works great 95% of the time but in early April when current is whipping and I am fishing spot on a spot for the big gals I have a heck of a time positioning. It seems that the waterspike gets pushed downstream a long ways as it is dropping. I have tried dropping then backing the boat up but the spike just doesn’t seem to end up anywhere near where I drop it. It seems to not bite right away either that time of year. I am fine at other times but I just really fight to get set up on current seems in April. Any suggestions or ideas?
Thanks!
Rich
I have your solution. ‘Cuz I’ve been there. 
Vertical jig your spike… lol
Seriously. Start well above the spot where you want your final anchored position to be and let the anchor down off the bow. Use your trolling motor to control your position relative to the anchor so you remain over the top of it. Let out line until you’re almost on the bottom or just tapping. You don’t want to over do it and have the spike grab too early.
Once you’ve drifted to your drop spot…. drop. And instead of having the current drag your anchor 50 feet downstream before it can hit the bottom you’ll basically be able to lay the anchor on the bottom in the exact spot you want it. Play out extra rope to allow the anchor to “bite” and hold in all that extra current and to allow your boat to settle into the spot intended.
Works for me.
Thank you sir. That makes sense but I’m sure it will take a little practice in real life. I was beginning to wonder if the waterspike was the way to go but I think you have answered my problem. One of the many reasons why this site is so great. Thanks again!
Could someone please clarify…
Is the water spike the actual brand that everyone is referring to or is it mearly the reference to the type/style of anchor? Last week at FF, I saw a bin full of anchors that I presumed were water spikes, but they didn’t have any labeling on them as to the manufacturer. I’d hate to spend the money on something that looks similar, but may not actually perform as discussed above.
Thanks,
Jim
><(((>
Nope…what I saw looked almost identical to the picture shown (just didn’t have a label on it). So I guess the question is…will it perform the same as the Water Spike brand?
Thanks for the quick reply.
Jim
><(((>
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I have your solution. ‘Cuz I’ve been there.
Vertical jig your spike… lol
Seriously. Start well above the spot where you want your final anchored position to be and let the anchor down off the bow. Use your trolling motor to control your position relative to the anchor so you remain over the top of it. Let out line until you’re almost on the bottom or just tapping. You don’t want to over do it and have the spike grab too early.
Once you’ve drifted to your drop spot…. drop. And instead of having the current drag your anchor 50 feet downstream before it can hit the bottom you’ll basically be able to lay the anchor on the bottom in the exact spot you want it. Play out extra rope to allow the anchor to “bite” and hold in all that extra current and to allow your boat to settle into the spot intended.
Works for me.
This is kind of the way I dump the anchor. I think one important thing is never just throw the anchor out. You never know how it will land. I also like tug on the line to “set” the anchor when my anchor line loads up.
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