How much benefit from a stainless prop????

  • docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #1235498

    How exactly will I benefit going to a stainless prop over my current Hustler aluminum? I have heard many opinions, but never a concrete answer to what is the absolute benefit.
    Currently, my Hustler is ventilated-which really has helped my 4 stroke 115 Mercury get out of the hole and my top end GPS speed is 43 MPH with Alumacraft Nav. 175CS.
    If I went with a stainless:
    1) What would it achieve?
    2) Is there different types of stainless props?
    3) What prop would I most benefit from?
    4)

    fishman1
    Dubuque, Iowa
    Posts: 1030
    #588293

    I think the only thing you are going to gain is that a stainless prop is much stronger than an aluminum or composite prop. I never worry about breaking off a blade like I have in the past when I ran aluminum props. I had a friend tell me that an aluminum prop is actually slightly faster than a stainless prop but I wouldn’t know why.

    Ralph Wiggum
    Maple Grove, MN
    Posts: 11764
    #588295

    The big advantage to SS versus aluminum is that aluminum flexes under load. So, whe you are running a 17 pitch aluminum at WOT, the blades are actaully flexing and making it essentially a lower pitched prop. SS does not flex like that.

    starkj25
    Posts: 216
    #588368

    is it just me or would you rather have a alum. or composite break a blade off rather than have a ss not give if you hit something hard and ruin the lower unit or bend something else inside?

    ggoody
    Mpls MN
    Posts: 2603
    #588377

    Quote:


    is it just me or would you rather have a alum. or composite break a blade off rather than have a ss not give if you hit something hard and ruin the lower unit or bend something else inside?


    web page

    redneckjr
    Rosemount, MN
    Posts: 1037
    #588418

    Some of the newer motors have protections against the drawbacks to s/s props.
    I heard somewhere that Yamahas and a few other brands(I can’t remember who) have started putting neopreme bushings in their lower units that will flex under enough stress instead of wrecking the lower unit.
    This is just what I’ve heard so I have no idea if it is fact or not.
    All I know is our motor dosen’t have them and we will stick with aluminum and just carry a spare. I think we have had our prop repaired 3 times already this year but a new lower unit would still be more expensive.

    Mark Steffes
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 1376
    #588422

    Now my questions is when I hit that submerged log this weekend would my prop be all screwed up like it is now if I had a stainless prop? I know my skeg would still be broke.

    amwatson
    Holmen,WI
    Posts: 5130
    #588431

    Quote:


    Now my questions is when I hit that submerged log this weekend would my prop be all screwed up like it is now if I had a stainless prop?



    I honestly do not think your prop would be destroyed if you had had a stainless. They can take a lot of abuse before they are destroyed. I have first hand experience with how much they can take. I have been through more aluminum props than I care to remember, but never have I destroyed a stainless nor have I ever done any damage to my lower unit after hitting rock piles, wingdams, or various types of wood.

    TazTyke
    Central Minnesota
    Posts: 473
    #588439

    Quote:


    I had a friend tell me that an aluminum prop is actually slightly faster than a stainless prop but I wouldn’t know why


    I don’t know about speed but RPM’s for sure. Aluminum has more flex so at higher RMP’s it doesn’t cut as much water, less resistance equals higher RMP’s. Stainless has no flex so there is more water hitting the surface which in turn puts more lugging on the motor there for less RPM’s. Most people that switch from Aluminum to SS in the same pitch on the same boat drop top RPM’s by 200-400. I went from pulling 6000+ with Alum to 5600-5700 in SS.

    I have personally feel that I have saved myself replacing props 3 times from hitting things with the prop that I know would have shredded an Alum prop. I watched a guy hit a rock hard enough that I could hear the prop tinging off the rock from about 200 yards away and when he got back to the dock he had nothing but a small ding in one blade that we fixed with the hammer.

    I don’t think you would not be happy. I have never regreted the day I put a SS on mine. I would suggest going to the dealer to get a prop to try. Most have some around for testing. This way if it is not the right RPM’s you can get the right one. Some can go up a half to one size steeper because of the reduced RPM’s. There are different props out there and as the old saying go’s, you get what you pay for! I would think you would spend around $350 for a good prop.

    superdave
    NE IA
    Posts: 804
    #588457

    I agree, I’ve had at least 3 times I would have been in the prop shop if I had aluminum. On the river I feel its a must have.

    msriverdog
    Arkansas
    Posts: 28
    #588469

    Quote:


    I agree, I’ve had at least 3 times I would have been in the prop shop if I had aluminum. On the river I feel its a must have.


    Aluminum=1 hit=trash, bad dings and missing chunks
    Stainless= lots of small hits=fine, bad hits=get the hammer

    My prop repair bill has gone way down in the 20 years I’ve been using SS props on the Upper Miss. NO. other way to go.

    broadwaybob
    Janesville, WI
    Posts: 402
    #588471

    I’ve talked to the Turning Point Propellor people and they feel that their aluminum prop is so good that you would not benefit from a SS–even theirs. That’s what they told me. Make sure you have good insurance that covers lower unit damage due to prop strikes since a repair will cost thousands to repair. I run a Piranha composite prop in unfamiliar waters or where I know there are underwater hazzards. If I hit something (and I have) 5 mins and I’m back on the water, no harm done. I have owned a SS prop and you can gain around 5% over stock aluminum props–although it will depend on the fit of the prop and RPMs. Is it worth the risk? Not for me.

    docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #588593

    Thanks for the input guys
    Guess I am looking for a concrete answer to if I will gain more top end speed or other performance issues. I am happy with my Hustler prop,esp. the venting has really helped my 4 stroke get out of the hole, but would upgrade to a SS if there was more than durability as the issue.

    Jeremy

    darrin_bauer
    Inactive
    Menomonie Wi.
    Posts: 260
    #588784

    I have a stainless on a 25hp and have hit two stumps on marshmiller and the prop was fine but just destroyed the stumps, I mean those suckers were shredded.

    b_sander
    Red Wing , MN
    Posts: 800
    #588968

    Couldnt you prop up or down with either (ss or alum) to get out of the water faster, or more speed?

    I have had an ss for the last I dont remember how long.. the Ranger and the tuffy! And I have not wrecked a lower unit yet ( knock on wood )

    I surely do not miss fixing my aluminum props…

    Tom P.
    Whitehall Wi.
    Posts: 3518
    #588977

    Quote:


    Guess I am looking for a concrete answer to if I will gain more top end speed or other performance issues


    My opinion is there is NOT an aluminum or composit prop that will run or give the same performance as a stainless steel. I have never seen a double cupped aluminum or a raker in aluminum. Not all stainless props are created equal either as far as there performance.

    Most stainless props will run in skinnier water ( closer to the surface ) If looking for more performance I would definantley go with a raker which is designed to ride high in the water. In other words… can raise your motor on your transom and trim a lot higher then normal which in turn gets more boat out of the water which correlates to faster top end. That means you can allso run shallower water at speed.

    I have run nothing but stainless props for the last 25+ years and never once detroyed a lower unit or matter of fact replaced or repaired my stainless. I have hit logs, made trenches thru sandbars and gravel, and clipped rocks. I don`t think an aluminum prop would last me two outings on my boat.

    My Two Cents

    broadwaybob
    Janesville, WI
    Posts: 402
    #589015

    Quote:


    If looking for more performance I would definantley go with a raker which is designed to ride high in the water. In other words… can raise your motor on your transom and trim a lot higher then normal which in turn gets more boat out of the water which correlates to faster top end.


    If you look at the boat/motor combination you will eliminate this type of thinking. Alumacraft does not endorse jackplates with setbacks and the motor is a 115 hp 4stroke–not exactly a high performance motor for a boat rated for 150hp. I’ll bet he is propped at 17-19″. With a ventilated prop its probably 19″ with plenty of slippage. Mercury recommends LazerII(like the Raker) or Vengeance(not a performance prop). LazerII starts at 19″ of pitch (which may work). The only way to tell is to find a dealer who will let you try one out before buying. On this rig I doubt there will be any worthwhile gains.
    Docfrigo, you are actually getting some great performance from your rig already. I have a 2007 Alumacraft Trophy 175 with a 115hp and am getting 38mph. I tried the Express SS and gained 1.8 mph over my stock aluminum–not that impressive. I am, however, about 400-500 lbs heavier than you are. I did not buy the prop, by the way.

    jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #589018

    Quote:


    Now my questions is when I hit that submerged log this weekend would my prop be all screwed up like it is now if I had a stainless prop? I know my skeg would still be broke.


    I’ve taken off the skeg on a merc 150 three times and didn’t put a scratch on the s/s prop.

    -J.

    jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #589019

    Quote:


    I have a stainless on a 25hp and have hit two stumps on marshmiller and the prop was fine but just destroyed the stumps, I mean those suckers were shredded.


    Same here. I have also hit rock hard and only put a few dings that were easily filed out.

    -J.

    rvvrrat
    The Sand Prairie
    Posts: 1840
    #589052

    On the lower hp motors I prefer aluminum. I can get 3 aluminum for the cost of one SS, and am running a well balanced prop. Just another point of view.

    docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #589105

    Thanks for the replies guys, this information really helps. My current prop is a 19 and is vented. If I were to get a SS, would I start by staying with a 19 and having it vented? The stock Merc. prop was a 17, but the Hustler 17(also vented) was really different (lost top end big time-this is the reason we tried the 19, which was much improved).

    Thanks,
    Jeremy

    darrin_bauer
    Inactive
    Menomonie Wi.
    Posts: 260
    #589138

    I don’t know about prop up or down, but stainless also maintains a nice sharp edge for slicing through the slop. Aluminum gets enough nicks and just wraps the weeds around instead of cutting them up.

    showags
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 518
    #589165

    If you are going to switch, I would start with a vented 19, but make sure you stick with a vented model. Aluminum inheritantly flexes under load and most load is applied during the hole shot. When you load up the prop, it will flex and essentially drop a few sizes thus producing more slip, more slip enables the motor to come up to its power band quicker and then as the boat planes out and reduces load on the prop, it will “bend” back closer to a 19 pitch giving you your top end back. I use “closer to a 19″ because aluminum will still be flexing and never really give you a true 19” pitch. Since stainless doesn’t bend as much there will be a greater load on the motor itself which may cause it to struggle until it gets into it’s power band, this is where the vents come in. The vents allow air into the path of the prop causing it to cavitate ever so slighty, this slight cavitation produces the slip required to get the motor up to it’s power band. Once on plane/higher speeds, venturi(sp?) action will actually pull the “air” out the rear of the prop hub thus taking away the slip thus giving the full effect of a stainless on top end. So, to make a short story longer, if you are going to stainless, I would start with the same pitch but make sure you have the vents. Like everyone has said, find a dealer that will let you try one and focus on your speed/rpm of your motor and go from there. Also, an often over looked reason for lower rpms is the actual rotational inertia which is greater on a stainless(more mass). This is usually negligible, but on smaller engines it can be the difference.

    docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #589168

    Thanks Showags,

    Where could I find a vented 19 inch stainless?

    t-ellis
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts: 1316
    #589174

    Exactly like Tom P said. I got sick of repairing aluminum and went to a Turbo stainless. Best move i made for my boat performance.

    showags
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 518
    #589178

    I know Mercury has a few in their line up that have the interchangeable orfice sizes for the vent hole. I would try Mercurys website. I think they also have a dealer located available for dealers that will allow you to try it before you buy it. One other note on Stainless, some have mentioned that you need to be careful about the lower units getting wrecked. This has been greatly reduced by the use of “hubs” that are made of composite and made to give before the lower unit does. I know Mercury has the FloTorq hub system.

    t-ellis
    Colorado Springs, CO
    Posts: 1316
    #589240

    Quote:


    Where could I find a vented 19 inch stainless?


    PM sent.

    Tom P.
    Whitehall Wi.
    Posts: 3518
    #589313

    Quote:


    If you look at the boat/motor combination you will eliminate this type of thinking. Alumacraft does not endorse jackplates with setbacks and the motor is a 115 hp 4stroke–


    Actually there is not a boat manufacturer that does endorse a jackplate and I never mentioned a jack plate. Just raising the motor up one to two holes on the transom can really improve performance, with the addition of a stainless prop.

    Quote:


    I tried the Express SS and gained 1.8 mph over my stock aluminum–not that impressive.


    For not changing any thing else on your setup that is a pretty impressive jump in MPH. And the SS is not a true performance prop.

    docfrigo
    Wisconsin
    Posts: 1564
    #589489

    Tom P
    Just out of curiousity, how high would one raise the motor?
    Isn’t the rule of thumb that the anticavitation plate should be roughly level with the bottom of the transom?
    I looked into Mercury’s website, and they recommmended the
    Laser II in a 13.25 diameter and 21.0 pitch. My current Hustler is 13.25 diameter and 19 pitch. With my motor, they are calculating my RPM’s at 5750. Don’t know my current RPM, but seem to remember it around 5500, going to check that this weekend. The laser II is vented, which can be adjusted. Anyone out there run this prop? They did recommend a 4 blade as well, but wouldn’t that drop my top end? Seems since I am going in the direction of switching to SS for more durability, I might as well try and tweak everything else out of it if I can.
    Mercury’s website calculations did project a speed of 46mph, but not counting on that.
    I certainly appreciate everybody’s opinions and ideas–one reason this website is so great.

    Jeremy

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