Bunk vs Roller Trollers?

I’d like to know what anyone’s thoughts are on bunk vs roller trailers for an 18ft Lund. Bought a new Lund last year with Shorelander 3100 Roller trailer. Great for launching even in shallow launches, but now so easy to do any kind of of power loading. After watching quite a few guys power launch with bunk trailers, is that the way to go? I’m thinking of converting my roller trailer to bunks? What do you think?
Dave C.

I have had both and prefer the bunk. I had a Mr. Pike 17 w/ roller and enjoyed the ease of unloading and with practice didn’t mind loading. I now have a 1800 Fisherman w/ bunk trailer. Once I got used to the depth to back the trailer in, it was a breeze. I fish mostly alone and the bunk for me is much easier to load and unload. For unloading (when alone) I leave the winch strapped attach and back in until the boat floats. Start the motor, undo the strap and back off the trailer. For loading I back the trailer in til most the bunks are underwater and drive onto the trailer, attach the winch and pull the boat out. The bunks help load straight every time. That’s great especially in heavy wind, waves or current. Swallow landings are tricky but I mostly fish the same lakes and rivers so the ramps are not a problem. Hope it helps.

My opinion is that the bunks are much easier than rollers. I had a “98” 1900LE Lund w/rollers for 4 years, and I can count on one hand the times that I did not have to get wet when trying to get the boat on straight. Had the boat/trailer back to dealer for adjustments and still no better. Prior post is right in that, in shallow water, the rollers are better for launching only. With bunks, you can be crooked on entry and it will straighten out everytime. Wind, waves, and/or current makes no difference! At least it has with my Warrior. To aid in shallow water launches, when you have the trailer out of the water sometime, let the bunks dry off. Then spray silicone on the bunks. Let that dry, then load your boat. Do this 3 to 4 times a year. But don’t make the mistake of unhooking your safety chain as you back in, at least on steeper ramps. My buddy launched his Yar Craft on the concrete! Now there may be a difference between aluminum and glass, so I would suggest that somebody else respond, that has had rollers and bunks with an aluminum boat.

I have an 18′ alumimun with bunk trailer and am extremely happy with it. Majority of the time I load/unload by myself and have not had problems – it is just about impossible to not get loaded straight. My previous rig had bunks as well but they sat up higher and the boat was a little more difficult to unload, I added those composite slick pads to the bunks, helping dramatically.

I agree with the popular opinion here. I now have a Lund Explorer 1675 SS with bunk trailer and it does load very nicely. I spoke to my boat dealer (who I trust) when I bought this and he suggested the bunk trailer too. He says you don’t need the roller unless you plan on dropping and loading in very shallow waters, or if you use very poor access ramps (too flat angle, etc). Good Luck!

I also agree bunks are great, especially on a glass boat.

I did however change from bunks to a roller set up on my jon boat. (14 foot aluminum) I was having problems with the boat freezing to the bunk carpet. This is the boat I use from late fall to early spring and rollers are the way to go for me on this boat.

I would also add that if you are having problems loading with your roller trailer, an adjustment to the roller placements can mean everything. Once they are set up correctly for your boat, and with a little pratice, it should load straight every time. The biggest mistake I see guys make while attempting to powerload onto a roller trailer is they back the trailer into the water way too far. Typically, only the rear-most set of rollers should be just an inch or so under the water.

If you do change over to a bunk set up under a riveted hull aluminum boat, I’d also suggest getting the glyde sticks as the rivets will trash the carpet every season.

Jon J.

I have bunks on a ‘glass boat and it has helped me a lot with loading straight. The only downside that I have seen is that on some lakes (thus far, all in northern MN), the ramps are so shallow that I need to back the truck in until the bumper is underwater before the boat will come off. Iowa seems for some reason to have the exact opposite problem, where all the ramps are extremely steep.

My sister-in-law’s husband has a Lund with a roller, and he would never consider switching. Like Jon said, he doesn’t even get the back set wet. He just keeps them about an inch out of the water and throws the boat up on there with the motor.

Man a lot of the launches I go to are not the best launches, they are indeed shallow and most of the time crooked, the big bennefit I have found to my roller trailer is I can always get my boat on the trailer straight, one launch I got to is both shallow and crooked, I have learned the only way to get my boat on straight is to leave the rollers quite a bit out of the water and just wench it on. I agree they are probably not the best for driving on, But I wonder how people with bunk trailer do it sometimes, I never have to worry about loading or unloading. For me my boat size was a big thing, I have a smaller boat, I needed for towing reasons, that and It’s easier for one person to handle IMO , and I tend to do a good part of my fishing alone. I also know I can get my boat in/out of pretty much anywhere.

My old boat had a roller trailer and I even bought a better roller trailer for it and really like it. When my son Nate got the boat I have now [he had it from Oct.-March one winter] he got it with an Eagle bunk trailer. The Eagle bunk trailers are made specifficly to fit the boat. The ease of loading that boat on that trailer is great. It supports the hull very well and trailers very well. Both boats he has had since mine have the Eagle bunk trailer, its a must. He is waiting arrival of the new bunk trailer and is using a roller trailer til it comes and he hates the roller trailer. [the bunk trailers spoiled him maybe, lol.] Sure love mine. Thanks, Bill

I have a 17 ft. Smoker and when I was buying it I asked the dealer (my wife’s uncle) what he thought was best. He asked me if I was going to be traveling a lot with it. He said the bunks are much better on the road for your boat than rollers. I find it very easy to load and unload by myself as well. No leaving the motor in gear so I can get up to hook up the strap. Pull up and shut her down. It stays put. My two cents.

I’m in need of a new trailer in the next 2-3 days.

Mine decided to flip on its side on the way back from Canada yesterday (very little damage to the boat)So I need to buy one so that I can go get my boat.

I have an older 16′ alumacraft – it doesn’t get used very much, maybe 10 times per year – Every trip is at least an hour drive, including 3-4 trips per year to Canada(30-40 miles of gravel roads)

Question 1 – for my boat, rollers or bunks

Question 2 – what name brand (EZ Loader/Shorelander/Karavan/etc?

Question 3 – who has the best deals (new trailer wasn’t part of my plans for the trip)

Thanks again

Here is what you should consider per your questions.

#1 if your going to be traveling longs distances go with the bunk trailer with the marine radial tires.

#2 I’d go with the Shorelander trailer. I have gotten a lot of miles on mine and when I had any questions the service department took care of all my questions and even sent me replacement parts directly.

#3 you need to go with someone you trust, someone that you know will be there in the future when you have questions, someone you trust assembling your trailer

We’ve had 2 incidences where we’d wished with had the other type.

When we ordered our 1750 Crestliner we requested Bunks. Dealer thought we were nuts but we like bunks. Picked up the boat realizing they hadn’t installed the bunks, but they were on order. Not a problem. On our second voyage out, I was backing the boat into the lake, my husband was in it and I heard that awful noise. The winch let loose, it had completely separated and the boat landed on the ramp. Not much damage, just a bent skeg but it was back to the dealer the next day to have the bunks installed.

Now, here’s where I’d wished we had rollers. Saturday, half hour before take off for a Club Tournament, we lost the starter on the motor. Our T director knew we always fished the opposite side of the lake and it would take us 3 hours via Troller to get there. 5 minutes before take off, he told us go load it up and take it to the other ramp. Well, it’s not easy to load onto bunks without power on a steep launch. Lucky for us 2 guys waiting to unload helped. Reloading it in the afternoon was easier, the ramp was deep but flat. BTW, there’s no way you’re going to work on the starter of a 115 Johnson. It would have taken an hour just to get all the bolts off.

Jo

I have an 18 ft Alumacraft with a roller trailer. After seeing and hearing so many good things about the bunk trailers I have a couple of questions.
1. it seems that most glass boats have “grooves” in the bottom that fit on the bunks pefectly and allow them to be loaded with no problems. My aluminum boat has a rounded bottom with no “grooves”. How can I be sure it will load right?
2. I saw an earlier post regarding strips that can be added to the bunks so that rivets won’t destroy the carpet. Can someone explain this to me more?
3. Can I go to my dealer and have them replace my rollers with bunks, or is it cheaper to trade trailers for a bunk trailer. I have a Shorelander 2800 roller right now.

Thanks in advance for your help gang.

Crossin’