My last in-line fuse fried and actually shattered. Therefor I can’t tell what fuse was in there previously. Wondering if anyone can tell me what size (amps) I should replace it with. I have a 24volt system 80lb auto pilot if that matters. thanks. mike
If you are talking about the inline glass fuses, don’t bother get one of these, save you a ton of time and headache the next time the load is just too much for your TM to bear.
50 amp auto reset like Dan posted.
Thanks I’ve been look’n for that, but what is Mid Isle Family Marine? Never mind, I see they change who the commission on the sale goes to each time you follow your link.
I’ve already rewired a new inline set up that takes a fuse like the ones in vehicles and not the little glass inline fuse. What would you recommend for this set-up?
A 50 amp.
Its sounds like you may have a problem somewhere melting fuses is not good.
How bad is it to run without a fuse?
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How bad is it to run without a fuse?
It could cost you an new trolling motor OR if your lucky just a week or two in the shop.
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I want to say you need a 60amp. I ran one of These for years until a litle water got in the connection and fried it probably real simalar to what happend to your last one.
When I wired my boat for my 24 volt I contacted Minnkota about this same question and was told a minimum of 60 amp. I also use the same fuse as *Nick* posted here.
Good call a 60 amp would probably be better.
I have no fuse but am going to put one in. Where in the circuit should the breaker go?
Fuse or circuit breaker should be as close to the battery as possible, usually within a foot.
On the positive or negative wire? I have a 24 volt system with a jumper.
Positive terminal that feeds the trolling motor.
Thanks Pier, that was my guess but my guesses have been wrong many times.
Pier,
Would that configuration you showed “drain” the one battery faster? If so, could it potentially “kill” the one battery, requiring you to buy new batteries more often?
Thanks.
JD
I suppose that could be true of the exact drawing, but if you took off the 12v to acc. from the drawing, the batteries should discharge at the same rate.
My 12v to acc. comes from my starter battery, not my trolling motor batteries, as I assume most people’s boat’s are similar (my Lund was this was as is my Ranger). I also suppose it depends on how much you draw on the 12v acc line too. Deep cycles are better designed to take deeper discharges too, so it may not has as much impact on battery life as you would think.
Bottom line is “possibably”, but I suppose it would be better to draw a deep cycle way down than a starter battery.
Anyways that’s how I’d see it.
I run a whole separate system for my electic stuff. Catfisherman own the night.
If your boat has a 4 wire system you will need 2 60 amp breakers. Running with out a fuse it is very possible to burn your entire boat up. Or blow your batteries up from a dead short.
That’s just the diagram I dug up for my application I have a small boat and 3 battery’s were not an option 2 were tough enough.
I can troll with my 24volt all weekend and have no problems running my electronics and starting my main motor !!! I use 2 group 29’s and it works great including long nights of Catten on the river.
With proper charging I don’t believe it hurts the battery’s in any way.
In my old boat, I had bad fuse problems; cooked and melted in-line glass fuses–one time leading to a burnt up trolling motor. The main problem was corrosion leading to heat build-up. My take on it is corrosion leads to pulling more amps which leads to too much heat, which leads to cooking things-like fuses. After being throughly scolded by my boat guy, he now makes me clean my battery posts and connections 2 times per year-well as checking all connections for corrosion elsewhere, and have never had a problem since. Hope the 2 cents helps, sure beats buying new trolling motors or having a fire in the boat.
Thanks,,
Jeremy
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