2007 Lowrance GPS / Sonar install.

  • jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #1235024

    The three attached video clips cover the basic installation on the LMS 520c. Note that the 520c has the same basic peripheral connections as any of the new units that run the new LGC-3000 GPS puck. So, these tips may be helpful to anyone installing any of the new units for 2007 including LCX series units. (LCX112/113, LCX 37/38, LCX 27, 28 ect)

    Manual for 520c install

    What I found confusing were the directions I received with my unit kept referring to blue and grey “T” connectors and also pictured in the diagrams were the “Double T” connectors used for expanded networks. (Page 36 in above pdf file.) I received a single BLACK “T” connector. Later I discovered there is a diagram in a separate publication from Lowrance that shows how to wire in the black connector. It’s publication 988-0154-65.

    Anyway, I can imagine that I’m a lot like many of you who are visual. When the pictures don’t match up with what came in the box, I get confused! So, I hope going though the set up connections with the Black T connector on the NMEA 2000 network will help. The new networks are a little different that the old ones in they are powered via the display. I have done installs on the old LGC 2000 puck where power needed to be supplied to the puck. The LGC 3000 puck picks up it’s power via the network. So, unlike the LGC2000 where you could plug the puck directly into the display, the LGC3000 puck, MUST be installed into the NMEA 2000 network.

    Take a look and let me know if they were helpful. Any questions, please post!

    First video clip is 18 meg, second clip is 30 meg and the final clip is 13 meg. Thanks to my helpful wife for the camera work! These were all done in ONE take! The video was taken on a $99 camera and compressed for the internet. Not the greatest quality, but a picture/video is worth a 1000 words typed up.

    Clip #1 – LGC3000 Puck.

    Clip #2 – Connections to Display unit.

    Clip #3 – Final Tips.

    Fireash911
    Holmen, WI.
    Posts: 160
    #551418

    Jon, did you install the “mandatory network shut-off switch” that you mentioned to keep the ends from corroding? If so, what type of switch did you use? Thanks for the video, I will be trying to install my 520c very soon and this will be very helpful

    jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #551439

    Yes. I made a mention of it in clip #3. I wired both the display unit and nmea power through my boat’s main electrical shut off. In my boat, I have one “master power” switch that kills power to all electrical devices on the boat. Not all boats have this feature so you may need to add the 2 switches.

    Some boats have an un-used accessory switch that you may be able to tap into.

    -J.

    farmboy1
    Mantorville, MN
    Posts: 3668
    #551508

    Jon,

    Where the heck were your two weeks ago when I was muddling through this

    Even after doing it myself, it is clearer now being able to see it. Thanks for the video

    doubleshot
    Brooklyn Park, MN
    Posts: 277
    #551535

    Jon, that was great!
    Especially great to see in video as someone who has to do this exact install, but has no experience whatsoever…like myself!

    Thanks you are making my worries fade

    wade_kuehl
    Northwest Iowa
    Posts: 6167
    #552341

    Jon,

    You Da Man!

    I’m looking forward to the next video, when you network the LCX-112C to the LMS-520C.

    Nicely done sir!

    Jami Ritter
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 3065
    #552495

    Great job John, now that you have the hang of it, you want to come down and install mine once it arrives in the mail?

    One quick question, did you have to run the network because you planned on running multiple graphs/graph locations with the one gps puck?

    Jami

    jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #552497

    Quote:


    One quick question, did you have to run the network because you planned on running multiple graphs/graph locations with the one gps puck?


    No. You must set up the network to add any device including the GPS. You cannot connect the LGC-3000 directly to the display.

    Quote:


    you want to come down and install mine once it arrives in the mail?


    If I have the time and you have the beer.

    -J.

    Jami Ritter
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 3065
    #552523

    I have the !

    So does all of the components needed come with the unit, or will I have to make another trip to Wade to get this done?

    jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #552524

    You will get all of the parts you need with the unit.

    -J.

    wade_kuehl
    Northwest Iowa
    Posts: 6167
    #552560

    Quote:


    So does all of the components needed come with the unit, or will I have to make another trip to Wade to get this done?


    Network cables are supplied in all combo units and with the purchase of an LGC-3000. If a person buys a unit without GPS, the network cables and connectors are not supplied.

    Jami, your LCX-27C combo (if it ever shows up) will have all the network cables and connectors in the box.

    Jami Ritter
    Hastings, MN
    Posts: 3065
    #552591

    Sweet! Thanks fellas, figured I’d ask before I got everything torn apart only to have to run and get that one little “extra” piece.

    Jami

    wade_kuehl
    Northwest Iowa
    Posts: 6167
    #552600

    Nope. The only thing I would add is that if you plan to connect the power directly to the battery, and not through the electronics buss on the boat, you will need an electric power switch. A simple toggle switch will work. You just need something to shut the power supply off, similar to the master power switch on a boat.

    Fireash911
    Holmen, WI.
    Posts: 160
    #552668

    Quote:


    Nope. The only thing I would add is that if you plan to connect the power directly to the battery, and not through the electronics buss on the boat, you will need an electric power switch.


    Wade, I was looking over the manual and it recommends a switch for the power and a switch for the network, are 2 really needed?

    jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #552677

    Quote:


    I was looking over the manual and it recommends a switch for the power and a switch for the network, are 2 really needed?


    Two switches would be needed if you were running something off the network other than the display. (For instance, a display in another location in your boat) And you did not want power supplied to the unused display.

    -J.

    SharkTeam
    Mosinee, WI
    Posts: 22
    #555240

    That was great! I just moved up to blue connectors myself and will be installing 3 ‘new’ units next week in my boat. A 7600c, 25c, and 332c. Is there a great simple link to help me do this style, or is really simple enough to do? I am really wondering if there are any parts that I should obtain before I jump in on the install, so that I am not looking for parts in the middle of the project.
    Thanks so much for your helpful post…

    nick
    Lakeville, MN
    Posts: 4977
    #555455

    You should have everything you need, unless you wanted to add any modules, like fuel, or fluid level or additional water temps sensors (like livewell). Maybe some ram mounts depending on how you want to mount them.

    Pretty straight forward on your systems, the only precaution is to only power the buss, once through one unit only.

    You can always post up if you have questions, someone will chime in to help you out.

    wallgeye
    Richfield, MN
    Posts: 157
    #558170

    Heya everyone, My first post here, thanks Nick for pointing me to this site!

    I find myself in a bit of a pickle. Opener is what, 5 weeks away now and my boat will be coming out of storage next week. I have a 18ft. G3 that is coming into its 3rd season. When I bought it, I purchased a LMS-332C and a X67C or was it a X68? The sonars were installed by the dealer and have worked flawlessly for me.

    This year, I bought and just recieved the LCX-113HD in the mail. I DID NOT buy the version that shipped with the LGC-3000 antenae figuring I already had the LGC-2000 that came with the 332c and would hook it up to the existing antenae.

    Reality check time. The 113 uses the red connectors, 332 uses the blue. I have talked with Cabela’s and Lowrance and am still confused. What I had hoped for and think that I have ordered (on backorder thru 4/23 of course)is an adapter cable that will connect from the 113 to my existing LowranceNET network (the blue connectors)thereby limiting the need to buy a bunch of new connectors and cables. A follow up call confused me even more, this person told me the adaptor cable would not plug into the 113 directly but would adapt blue cables (lowranceNET) to red connectors (deviceNET) and I would need to know if I need male of female connectors to order correct stuff. This would also require the purchase of a red “T” conector and associated cabling and terminators.

    Not sure if I should just toss it back to a dealer for the install of the new sonar or try to tackle it myself. The plan was to move the 332c to the bow, sell the x67c and mount the 113 at the helm where the 332c now sits. I did not think this would turn out to be such a PITA and I have not even looked at the boat yet.

    Lowrance’s website has not been updated to include the new connectors (red and grey) so I am required to make calls to them to try to get answers. I really wish they would have come up with something differant to name the new network, we got deviceNET, LowranceNET, LGC2000, NMEA2000, this things just arent differant enough for me not to get confused when talking about them.

    Has anyone done an install similar to mine? Updating an existing system with a new unit that uses the new Red and grey connectors? I think I am going to ask Lowrance if they can email me a parts list of the new stuff and adaptor cables so I can try to get this straightened out. I am getting worried that I may not be up and running come opener.

    Thanks in advance!

    *EDIT*

    WHOOPS!

    I am very sorry about the above post! It was my first to these boards and this was the only thread I had read so far. I really got a bit excited when I saw this information and posted before I trolled the rest of the threads. After 3 hours of looking at posts dating to the first of the year I see several posts where peeps have already asked what I was looking for!

    Great information here, lots of info mining to be done yet!

    nick
    Lakeville, MN
    Posts: 4977
    #558232

    Let me see if I can sort this out a little…

    Ok, so the catch is with the lgc2000, and the new 113, I’m not familar with adapting the NMEA networks, as it appears no one really is too much, yet. Probably the simplist option right now to get GPS on the 113 would be to leave the LCG2000 hooked up to the 332, and use the older standart NMEA 0183 to communicate between the two for GPS signals. All you need to do that is probably some more wire and you are good to go.

    Atleast until your cables show up then we can figure out how to adapt the network properly so everything works like it should.

    I’ll have to dig a little to find some of the posts that explain this in more detail…

    Edit: here’s one really good post where Wade talks about how this is done. NMEA 0183 connection

    PickerelSlough
    Dakota County, Minnesota
    Posts: 21
    #558353

    I have another install question. I am installing a transducer from a 334C. I would like to run the cable through the splash pan drain hole as this makes for a nice neat cable path (my old x85 is run that way). The blue threaded part of the plug is just a hair too big to get through the hole. Does anyone know if there is a way to pop the threaded part of the plug off and put it back on when I am done installing the cable?

    The only other ideas I have come up with is that I could shave off a little of the plug or try puting some lube on the plug and push like heck.

    Any help is appreciated.

    nick
    Lakeville, MN
    Posts: 4977
    #558393

    Hmmm not sure you can take the blue part off, not sure I’d try myself, I’d probably attempt to grind it down and lube it through myself, being careful to not push or pull on the cable itself.

    BTW Welcome to IDA Sounds Like we got ourselves another Pool 2 Fisherman

    saguarokid
    Waterloo, Ia
    Posts: 84
    #569308

    Great presentation!! Can I run three 520c units off of one GPS ant.? I’d like two in the back (tiller boat) one for sonar and GPS and one for GPS then one in the bow for sonar and GPS.
    Could some one show me a diagram on how to do this or did ya??

    Also it’s my understanding that you only need to power the network from one 520c head unit? Do I need a on/off toggle switch just for the network or one for the network and one for each head unit too?

    I’m not very smart when it comes to this kinda stuff but I can lift heavy things….

    Thanks for any help!!

    Mark

    dandorn
    M.I.N.N.E.S.O.T.A.
    Posts: 3201
    #569324

    Mark,

    Yes you can run three units off of one antenna.
    If your going to run two side by side at the back
    you would really only need to connect two of the
    units to the antenna.
    If you plan on buying one unit with GPS, and two without
    you may need a longer extension cable to reach the bow.
    You will receive a 15′ cable with the unit with GPS.
    Manual says to install a mandatory switch for the network power. The diplay power is your call. I guess it will depend on where your power is coming from. (existing switch panel or direct to batt.)

    Good Luck,

    Dan

    saguarokid
    Waterloo, Ia
    Posts: 84
    #569365

    Thanks dandorn, yes the plan was to get one with transducer with GPS and two with out. Good call on how to run the two in the back.

    It’s my understanding the network will share stored coodinates between the two GPS units?

    I’m powering them right to the battery on the plus side. Inside the rear counsel there appears to be a grounding terminal (block) I planned on using for ground?

    So, I will have one unit in back for sonar and one unit for GPS then in the front one for sonar and GPS using the univerasl trolling motor transducer. I run power to the network from only one unit?? I will put in a switch for the network and one for eack unit…four?

    Did I mention this is all new to me..I just started Walleye fishing..

    Wow….

    Thanks much….

    Mark

    dandorn
    M.I.N.N.E.S.O.T.A.
    Posts: 3201
    #569481

    Mark,

    Yes, the network will allow you to share coordinates
    between GPS units.
    It will also allow you to share speed and temperature.

    The grounding block is nice to have!! I would use it
    if there is room.

    The network must only be powered once. Three displays
    plus one network = 4 switches.

    You may have to network the unit you plan to use for
    “Sonar Only” at the back if you want to see water temp.
    on the bow unit. You will only have the one temp. sensor
    on the rear transducer so if its not tied into the network
    you will not be able to share the temp. with the bow
    unit. The extra parts to have all three networked would
    be minimal.

    Dan

    saguarokid
    Waterloo, Ia
    Posts: 84
    #569547

    Thanks much Dan……

    saguarokid
    Waterloo, Ia
    Posts: 84
    #570571

    Well I tied two head units and the network to one toggle switch? It’s a 12 amp switch so it should be ok? Instead of the black tee with 60 mhz caps I used the red double tee with 120mhz caps….seems to work? I need to save up for the front unit now!!!

    Thanks again……

    Mark

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