Bleeding trailer brakes??

  • Ben Garver
    Hickman, Nebraska
    Posts: 3149
    #1234970

    I’ll soon be putting a new actuator on my boat trailer and will need to bleed the brakes. My instruction manual doesn’t say anthing about how to build up the pressure before opening the bleeder valves. Do I just park on a hill and build pressure or what? Any advice would be much apprieciated.

    jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #547095

    There should be a way to actuate the brake right up on the hitch. I did it on a Yacht Club trailer a few years ago. Used a large screwdriver to pump the brake. Just like a car. Its a 2 person job. Open the valve at the wheel, pump the brake hold it down, close the valve, release the brake, repeat. The reservoir was right up on the hitch. Keep the fluid full on each pump.

    puddlepounder
    Cove Bay Mille Lacs lake MN
    Posts: 1814
    #547103

    maybe i am wrong, but don’t you pump the brakes to build up the pressure first then open up and shut the bleeder valve, add fluid, pump up the brakes, open up and shut the
    bleeder valve…………
    i am not a wreach head and it has been a while since i have bleed brakes, or maybe trailors are different……………..tom fellegy

    fearnofish82
    Warroad/LOTW
    Posts: 387
    #547105

    I had work done on a boat trailer of mine a few years ago at a local repair shop and they had a doohickythingamabob that they put on the front of the trailer to do it.

    randy-k
    West Central MN
    Posts: 106
    #547166

    Hi Ben. How’s it goin’? My advise (experience) on surge
    brakes? Don’t spend another dime reworking them! Convert
    to electric. I did it on my last trailer and loved ’em.
    I’ll be putting them on another trailer this spring. I also
    suggest switching to the oil bath type hubs at the same
    time. You’ll need new pre-assembled backing plates (these
    include the shoes) & new drums plus oil bath kit. Your
    light cord plug will need to be the round 7 blade type
    because you’re adding two more wires. Although surge brakes
    are fine when they are new, most guys who pull the inclosed
    type construction trailers will tell you electrics are
    safer and more reliable. Good luck with which ever way you
    go.

    mrbill
    Posts: 4
    #547531

    Best way is to beg, borrow or steal a power bleeder or one of those Mini Vacs that you pump by hand. If you cant find one you can try this. Mount a trailer ball on the end of a strong 2X4 or piece of steel. Put this into the hitch and have a helper lift the 2X4 so that it operates the surge brake. This works just like stepping on the brake pedal of your car so the lever must be held while the brake bleeder screw is opened and then shut. If the lever is release while the bleeder screw is open you will suck air back into the line. The power bleeder or Mini Vac only requires one person and a lot less effort.

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