Does anyone here use snap-weights when trolling cranks? Last year I used them, and about 30% of the time I would end up losing the snap weight when bringing the fish in. I was using 10# mono, and the snaps were “heavy” spring tension. Is there a better way to secure the snaps that I don’t know about. I’d appreciate hearing any tricks to the trade if you guys know of any. Thanks.
SEDNERB
I use my own weights with a red off shore snap. Never lost a weight yet, except dropping them over the side. I think there an OR-11 or OR-19 snap. They have a pin thru the pads making it almost impossible to lose.
Hook is right on. I also use the Off shore red snaps with the pin on snap weight and planers boards. They don’t come off!
Hey guys,
Well, that probably explains it. I’ve been using the yellow snaps, which do not have a pin through them. Now I know, and hopefully I don’t lose any more, cause they’re expensive as hell. Thanks guys.
SEDNERB 
I lose my fair share of snapweights every season. I’m still using the black releases without the pin. (When I run out, I will be buying the pins!!) When I use a heavy weight such as +2 ounces, I’ll use a rubber band and tighten up the snap. I can get it so tight that it takes two hands to get it off! Give it a try.
Jon J.
A little tip….
Take a snap swivel. You know the loop where you usually tie your line on? Attach it to the ring on the snap weight. When using the snap weights attach them to your fishing line like you always have. Then attach the snap swivel to your line. Now if the snap weight comes loose it will slide down your line to the lure.
Jason,
Sounds like you’ve run stacked lines for salmon?
Work great til it hits the fish in the nose, kinda spooks em. 
Guilty…Stackers and fixed sliders work great when the mayfly hatch is here on the central basin. I can target hi and low fish at the same time… I am looking forward to the first time I have two steelies on at once!!!
If you are going to be running a lot of snap weights… Buy some of the “string on a tube” type bobber stops. Put a bead on your main line, then put bobber stop between that and your lure leave a 3-4ft gap more if you can.
rod———snapweight———–bead-bobberstop—–3-6ft—–lure
If you use the proper size snap swivel the bead will stop the weight from smacking the fish. It will also help your lure stay clean of weeds and debris thats in the water.
Great suggestions Jason.
Thanks for the Pros Pointers!!!
I have never tried the snap weights when trolling cranks. How far in front of the crankbait to you attach the weights?? I assume this would be an alternative to running leadline??
Thanks,
barc
I will start with 30 to 50ft. in front of my lure.then let out enuff line to get the lure just tic tic tic on the bottem.Yes it has replaced leadcore trolling for me.
The Precision trolling guide which is available at most sporting goods stores explains the 50/50 method of fishing snap weights. I run this system with most cranks I open water troll. I suggest if you don’t have one you add it to your arsenal. Very informative, explains many facets of trolling, snap weights, dipsies, jets………….. and more.
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