Newbie to Lead Core

  • Mark Steffes
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 1376
    #1234334

    I’m going to try lead core line for the first time, I was wondering what length poles work best. Also what reels work with lead core. When you put lead on the reel do you back it with mono first. Any other tips & ideas would be great help. Thanks

    jhalfen
    Posts: 4179
    #455610

    I’ve been exposed to a bunch of different leadcore setups. I’ll tell you what I have, but these may not be the optimum setups.

    I have 2 different setups. For reels, I have a diawa depthmaster 47 and an abu garcia 6500. These are on 2 different rods, 7-6 and 8-6 with the larger reel on the longer rod. The rods are glass/graphite blends that have a pretty soft tip for absorbing headshakes (remember that leadcore is no-stretch) but good backbone.

    You do need some mono backing on the reels before you spool up with leadcore. Then a bloodknot from leadcore to leader. I have 8-10′ of 10 lb xt as a leader. It’s easier to tie knots at the end of the leadcore if you remove a 6″ section of the core and just use the outer sheath for knot tying.

    derek_johnston
    On the water- Minnesota
    Posts: 5022
    #455616

    I use Cabelas Depthmaster linecounter reels on 8’6 St.Croix glass trolling rods. 18# Magibraid leadcore line.

    Todd_NE
    Posts: 701
    #455626

    Good question

    I do everything in pairs, so adjust accordingly.

    The ONLY reel I think worth using is the Daiwa 47, linecounters ARE helpful with lead. I know many are now saying the Bass Pro Gold Cups in the large size are working good too and use the Sealine frame.

    If I was to have one pair – it would be 8-9′ rods. BassPro Planer Board P & K rods work well and are 8’6″. Ugly Sticks and the like – shimano’s – are fine too.

    If I want to run 4 rods Ilike to use 7 or 7’6″ rods on the inside and 10.5′ on the outside. Scheels makes a 5.5′ and 10.5′ rod designed by Jim Carroll and Johnnie Candle that work very well. In fact, those 10.5′ rods are a VERY good rod if you want just one and they are only $59 maybe.

    I use 18#, though I have a reel with 27# on it. I’m going to start using more 12 where it isn’t snaggy.

    For a knot I tie an overhand knot and leave it at the end of the leadcore. Then I put it in a “U” In the bow of the “U” tie a palomar knot with your leader material. I use 20′ 10-14# fireline. Slide the knot down to the end knot, trim them both. Hope that makes sense.

    jhalfen
    Posts: 4179
    #455654

    Todd, I’m going to disagree with you about those shorties sold by Scheels. I used one for the first time in april….I’ll never use one again. They give you absolutely no leverage against the fish. You might as well be handlining or fishing with a tip-up.

    Mark Steffes
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 1376
    #455658

    I picked up 2 st. croix 8’6″ for it, now the question is linecounters or just baitcasters? Also how many yds of line do you usally put on there? Thanks for the respnse so far guy’s.

    Todd_NE
    Posts: 701
    #455660

    Jason,

    I personally am more comfortable with the longer rods, but in many situations where 4 lead lines are required the “Shorties” really shine. It probably helped fishing with Jim, who is a great PWT stick, and seeing him make them really work well.

    I think the action on the rod is perfect and for me, reeling in fish on any trolling rod is really a matter of holding the rod at a 90 degree angle to the fish and reeling them in slowly and steadily. The biggest issue with a leadcore rod is it’s softness, i.e. will it rip out hooks and yet show the action of the lure.

    IF you want a shortie rod, there’s none better than theirs. I’ve had a few others in my hands (I’m sure there are more out there) but it’s a good one. Understand I say that and I’m a Bass Pro sponsored angler.

    But, the question is, do I need a short rod? Something to consider. I tend to lean towards avoiding 4 lead lines if I can, but now and then, it’s a good solution.

    Todd

    sand_pike
    Posts: 51
    #455669

    I use glass rods for my leadcore set ups 6.5′-7.5′,
    diawa 47 series linecounters and about 10′ of 12# flourocarbon connected with a very small swivel.
    I love pullin lead, it’s my favorite way to fish and cover ground.

    derek_johnston
    On the water- Minnesota
    Posts: 5022
    #455670

    I rely on my linecounter. I think the colors are useless but then again I’m color blind..

    corey-studer
    Posts: 423
    #455673

    What everyone has said about glass rods and larger reels, I’d have to agree on. Just remember that with lead core, it’s very speed sensitive. Meaning, if someone tells you that they’re using 2 and a half colors(lead) with a certain crank bait, doesn’t mean you can duplicate the same results as to getting your bait the same depth. Just remember when you go to make a turn, that inside line is going to drop quite a bit with lead. When trolling with mono or a braided line that same inside line will somewhat stay at the same depth or may even float up if your turn is tight. Of course it will depend on the lure too. So, if you get a report on leadcore fish, be sure to ask specifics: leader length, colors of lead IN the water and speed…

    I generally don’t put mono backing on becuase my reels have a place to tie the line to. I use about a fifteen foot mono or florocarbon leader and tie a nail knot to the lead core line. This can be accomplished very easy if you have a certain tool Most fly shops carry this tool.

    I’m no lead core expert but, I have caught my share of eyes on Mille Lacs and LOTW using this presentation over the past 13 years. It’s a great way to get those smaller baits down like a #4 or #5 Hornet and #5 or #7 shad rap. It’s also a great way to cover water, catch the more aggressive fish and a great way to learn the lake and where the fish are…

    corey-studer
    Posts: 423
    #455675

    I’ve got 6 colors on my reels. I know some like to splice and use segments.

    luke_haugland
    Iowa City, Iowa
    Posts: 3037
    #455693

    Todd- those are sweet rods!! I picked four of them up the first day they “came out”…

    I can’t think of any better “inside” rod..they are awesome!

    Now, with that being said, I hate trolling, and I am no good whatsoever at it!!!!

    scottsteil
    Central MN
    Posts: 3817
    #455735

    All good advice here. No matter what rod you decide to go with make sure it has a very soft tip. You want a nice bend in the rod while trolling core so you can read your lures. As 500 said, core is very speed dependent which is nice because as you come up to shallow water you just give it a little and your lines will raise up. As it drops back down, slow down and let them fall.

    I use 9′ & 8’6″ on each side. Those short rods are not very forgiving, and on tour a lot of times I am not realing the fish in. I need every advantage I can get to get the fish to the boat. I would stick with longer rods with soft tips.

    Mark Steffes
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 1376
    #455851

    It look’s like linecounters are the way to go, one last question why do some of you have 10′ of leader, but some have it shorter? Doesn’t that afftect the plugs? If so what length is prefered? Again Thanks Guys like allways everyone on this site is very helpfull.

    mwal
    Rosemount,MN
    Posts: 1050
    #455870

    I Use straight lead core onto a line counter reel with about a 6 to 8 foot 12lb maxima leader. I take about 1 1/2 inch of the lead out insert the leader into the hollow space and tie a overhand knot in that section. It has never broken on me yet the leader always has broken near the crankbait. I replace leader every other trip. I use an old fiber glass 8.6ft downrigger rod. Good luck.

    Mwal

    Mark Steffes
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 1376
    #455885

    Do you guy’s use snap locks on your leader for crank bait for lead core?

    Todd_NE
    Posts: 701
    #455895

    Leader Length – I use 20′ because about 12-14′ is the shortest I’ll go. That way I can cut off a few times and be “ok” on length.

    Leader material – I used to be died in th wool mono thinking the stretch was important. I’ve long since decided fireline is the way to go because it shows the action the lure wayyyy better. Put it like this, anytime I see a competitor in a tourney rigging his with mono I smile now.

    Perhaps flouro has it’s place, but I’m the guy who thinks walleyes don’t think and they seem to swim into nets.

    whatever YOU believe in is always most important

    Todd

    Willeye
    La Crosse, WI
    Posts: 683
    #456040

    Quote:


    Do you guy’s use snap locks on your leader for crank bait for lead core?


    I use a snap lock to allow for quick changes of my cranks. Another leadcore tip I picked up on IDA is to use a small barrel swivel between my mono leader and the leadcore. The swivel is small enough to go through the rod eyes and it really cuts down on line twist.

    john-tucker
    Northwest Illinois
    Posts: 1251
    #456190

    I believe the wide variety of responses on leader length is due to the body of water fished. In clear water, a longer leader is desireable to prevent the fish from seeing the lead. I fish the Miss almost exclusively, and do very well on core with a 5-8′ Fireline or PowerPro leader.
    When buying your leadcore, make sure it is a good brand. I purchased an off brand at Scheel’s last year, and it has cost me several crankbaits. The line snaps with minimal pressure, so I am replacing it with 18# Magibraid!

    Willeye
    La Crosse, WI
    Posts: 683
    #456203

    John,

    What # test Fire-line or Power-Pro do you use for your leader? I’ve just begun using leadcore this year and was told to make sure my leader line has a lower break strength than the leadcore line. Made sense to me.

    Mark Steffes
    Farmington, MN
    Posts: 1376
    #457067

    I got my reels 2 diawa sealine 27, spooled with #18 magibraid. Now I can’t wait for the weekend to head to pepin to finally try my new setup. Thanks to all of the guy’s for input I’ll let you know my results from the weekend.

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