In the past I made a number of rods including an 8 1/2 foot downrigger rod. It was alot of fun but now I spend the time when I have it ice fishing or on the internet surfing fishtheriver.com. I use to use the Fenwick blanks and Fugi guides. What type of rods are you building and what blanks do you like. It’s been along time since I thought about this, thanks for putting up the post!
Zim
Hello Ron,
Have only built spinning rods to date but starting my first baitcasting rod. Want to use a burled wood reel seat and forgrip on this one. It should be nice if it turns out. This current project is for cranks.
I have pretty much settled on Lamiglass blanks. They’ve served me pretty good over the years and quality wise I think they’re as good as any on the market.
With the internet there’s a wealth of info out there now about rod building. Some of the sticks these folks build are more works of art than ‘fishin poles’.
I sure don’t save any money building rods, but, it’s a satisfying feeling using them… and, it keeps me out of political debates in other forums : )
I got hooked on St Croix after fishing with some of the guys on this forum (mostly James Holst). WOW….they are really NICE
but a little spendy for the average guy if you buy them factory built. So..I buy blanks (2nds) from the local shops here in Rochester
and build me own, exactly like the factory models. The local dealer gets me the St Croix handle set, eyes, and the blank 2nds.
I use the St Croix AVID series 6′-3″ spinning rod with extra fast tip for tons of stuff….pitching tiny jigs, hair jigs, superdoos,
ringworms, vertical jigs with live bait…..FANTASTIC rod. They cost $150 factory and I can make them for under $50 with real
St Croix parts, although as I mentioned, the blank is a “2nd”. Can’t tell them apart from the factory ones when in the boat except I have
no decal on the rod. I’m now building some bait casters for rigging on the river (pulling live bait), again St Croix blanks but stiffer.
Great little hobby for Winter
How much are you having to pay for these blanks? I’d like to get ahold of some inexpensive blanks to try some tings on.
On your casting handle, is it open in front of the trigger so that the blank is exposed? Still use tape or graphite bushings on those?
The blanks cost me between $12 and $15 depending on the length, and if they have a minor or major flaw. Once I put a rod together, even major flaws do not show. Major flaws are generally a slight bend in the rod up near the tip. Generally the bend is in line with the spline so once the guides are on, it is in perfect alignment. On the baitcasters, I use either genuine St Croix reel seats (have a couple colors available and use a threaded ring to tighten) or have purchased some Fuji seats, similar to the St Croix ones, and again come in a couple of colors. On the spinning rod handles, I use the St Croix handle set which has a very nice cork reel seat and steel ring to tighten the reel in securely. I tend to use the best parts I can find because when done the rod is also quality and I love fishing with good stuff.
NKT, sorry, missed answering one of your questions. No, the rod does not show through in front of the finger grip. I use both bushings if I can get close to the right size, and tape when I can’t. Always put on a trim ring to cover that space in the end and it hides all of what is behind it.
Wish I had access to those blanks. Always a bit leary of purchasing seconds over the internet, and, there’s no place anywhere near here to get them.
All the rods I’ve made to date I’ve used Fuji seats. Use cork rings to make the handle to the desired length, then turn them on a drill lathe (lot of home made tooling for this stuff) to shape them. Sure is a messy process getting everything lined up and into the clamp. I’ve used the skeleton seats a couple of times with cork between the reel clamps.
This rod I’m starting now will have the exposed blank in front of the trigger and not sure how I can get a spacer in there without interfering with the open space. As I mentioned, this is my first baitcasting blank so this type seat will be all new to me.
You use a spine finder or use the bend and roll method? Wondering if they’re worth the money.
For finding the spline I make sure the butt end of the blank is evenly cut nice and clean, I add a piece of masking tape into about 3 spots on the blank all the way around, then hold the blank at about a 45 degree angle facing upwards and while holding the tip with one hand, I slowly turn it with the other and apply enough pressure to deflect the blank a few inches. The blank just jumps into position when the spline is found and I use a pencil to make marks on the tape I had previously wrapped around the blank. I have seen the factory version at Cabelas and didn’t think it was worth the $$.
Give me a holler (PM) if you want the names of 2 local dealers that sell them. I’m sure they could wrap up a couple and ship them to you for just a few $$, would still make for very cheap blanks. I’d even go over to select them if you trusted my judgement.
I’m building my first rod this last week, so I’m sure no expert, but I was told a method to find the spline that is even easier and more precise for us beginners.
Hold the rod vertically, tip down. When it’s completely plumb, gently apply downward pressure. The spline becomes visually apparent immediately.
– Rick “Thumper” Torgerud
Neither of the pro rod builders I know use this method but doesn’t mean it won’t work. After you do that, just try the tape method to validate what you found….they should match up perfectly. If what I wrote confuses you just PM me, I will send some pics to your email.
I’ll give that a try and see if I come up with the same markings as I did with the ‘rolling’ method.
You building a spinning rod or a casting?
At the moment a casting rod, fairly heavy action, one that will allow me to use 3 to 5 oz sinkers on the river for deep water trolling in the winter. It is a St Croix AVID series blank (2nd) and I am using a handle from Cabelas on this one with a Fuji reel seat.
Ever ‘spiraled’ your guides on a bait casting rod? From what I’ve been reading it must be the latest and greatest (rolls the guides to the inside of the spine to prevent rod twist). I’m contemplating it, but, not sure I want to test things on my first bait casting blank.
Course, those sheepshead down here demand the best from a rod! : )
Have never tried that, will ask my rod building pro next time I’m in his shop.
The sprial wrap or Roberts Wrap is not new. It was developed by a rod builder by the name of Roberts in Kansas City in the ’50’s. On the west coast it is known as the “acid wrap”, because it looks like the builder was on a trip when he wraped his blank. Actually the wrap is not difficult to accomplish, and realy does stabilize a casting rod, eliminates torque and increases casting distance and accuracy.
We will have a couple of spiral wraped rods at the Walleye Expo and Canterbury Park the weekend of 1/31.
Kris Kristufek
I used a 15′ trolling rod built by Lakelady Rods on the river all of last year that is Spiral wraped. In fact it was 1st used in Dustin’s boat in June last year. Dustin and James were looking for a way to pull cranks right up into the rip rap and closer to shore without having to use boards or risk the lower unit. So we built a 15 footer. After seeing first hand how a spiral wrap performs, especially with a longer rod and trolling, I wonder why they aren’t all built that way!!!
Can you post a picture of that rod? Bet many of us have never seen one like that. Thanks
Spiral Wrapped rods are not easy to photograph, but I think I’ve got a shot of the 15 ft’r in use somewhere. Here’s a shot of a spiral wrap though. This should show basically how the guides are placed on a rod. Note that from the reel in the zero axis position, 4-guides are used to take the line in a straight line to the 180 degree axis, then on the 180 degree axis to the tip top. We will have this rod as well as the 15 footer at the Walleye Expo next weekend at Canterbury Park
Kris, do you have any hard and fast rules for placement of guides when using a spiral wrap for a specific length rod (ie, a 7′ blank)? All the information I’ve found so far poking around on the internet is somewhat vague – to a novice like me anyway.
I get the impression that I should simply begin by taping a guide onto the blank 180 degrees from the center of the reel’s spool and work back towards the reel…. but, how far up the blank should the first guide be placed on the inside of the spine?
I’d sure like to see some pictures too if you would have time to post some.
It is a lot easier to show than to tell how to do this wrap.
The first step is to find the spine where the blank “locks in”. There are several ways of doing this, most all of them work just fine. Be certain that you find the effective spine and not the weak spine.
The first guide must be placed where the line will freely flow without “bunching”. The entire guide ring should be used as the line moves through it. Most casting blanks will allow this guide to be in the 19″ range from the spool.
Basically start just like you always would at the 0 axis point. With some reels we might move the first guide off center maybe 10 degrees or so, the 2nd at about 60 degrees, the 3rd at about 120 degrees and the 4th at 180 degrees. It is critical that all guides be alingned so that the line from the reel to the 180 degree axis is a straight line. Anything less is a problem and the physics of the wrap will not perform as advertisied. Just work with it a bit and you will see when it is all lined up. From the 4th guide to the tip-top use the smallest guides (I always use #8 low frame “J” fly guides) or smaller. Add another problem to this by doing the Morton equal angle and the Fuji concept guide system to the tip-top. This may open a whole can of worms for the novice at this point. See I told you up front it is easier to show than to tell!
Another question that comes up is which way to spiral around the rod …. clockwise or counter clockwise. That answer is easy …. The rod does not care!
Only custom builders can afford the time it takes to set up the rod blank correctly for the sprial wrap. Tweaking is the key, it takes a lot of time to get it right. The manufacturers simply cannot afford that amount of time.
My son is trying to get one of the Roberts/Spiral wrap pictures posted here. Taking a picture of a rod and trying to show everything is nearly impossible and keep it all in focus.
Come see us at the Walleye Expo next weekend at Canterbury Park. We’d be happy to help you out.
Kris Kristufek
Effective spine is the outside of the curve when rolling the blank while bent and Weak spine is the inside of the curve? Or do those terms mean something else all togather?
Thanks kindly for this information. I’d love to come see your rods, but, that’s quite a’ways north of here.
Got your post printed out and am headed to the garage to see what I can accomplish.
The effective spine is the strong spine, where the blank “jumps” in the 90 degree flexed position. It is difficult to twist the blank with your fingers …. you just gotta try it to find the effective spine. Once you do, the rest is history. You’ll never, ever, buy a rod off the rack without finding it. Believe me, most manufacutured rods are not built correctly. That is whole another story too!…. Now, having said that, there is not a bad rod built…. some are just simply better than others…. all of them will assist in catching fish. I certainly do not want to create bad ill will amongst fishing rod companies, that is simply not my point. They have a job to do, and do it well, they just can afford to take the time to do it right, EVERY TIME!
Sooo, the effective spine is where the rod being flexed, jumps to its spine, and “locks in”. Look at the blank…. what does it look like…. is it in the fishing fighting position or the casting postion? what is more important to you? Fly fisherman are way different that bass or muskie fisherman …. jig fisherman …. live bait…. trolling…. get the picture.
Good luck in the shop…. you will learn a ton by just trying out various things. I very good friend and mentor of mine says all the time… “I don’t know if it is the only way , but it works for me every time”.
Tight wraps,
Kris Kristufek
LakeLady Custom Rods
http://www.lakeladyrods.com
Kris, you say that “It is critical that all guides be alingned so that the line from the reel to the 180 degree axis is a straight line.” I can’t seem to get this worked out. Doesn’t there have to be some wrapping of the line around the blank as it follows the guides around the curvature of the blank?
Been reading all I can find on spiral wraps but it’s just not sinking in.
NKT, try offsetting the stripper guide maybe 10-15 degrees than get to the 180 axis in 4 guides. Critical….
Kris
ok, I’ll try that. Just about used up a roll of masking tape moving guides around! : )
What seems to happen while getting *close* to having a straight line from reel to 180 degrees is that the first guide at the 180 spot is almost halfway up the 7′ blank (from the foregrip). The rod is a Moderate action blank, so, the bend places stress on the line guides wrapping around the reel.
Sure wish I was closer to your shop..
Thanks again for your suggestion.
Another way of positioning guides and moving them around before they find a final spot on the rod is to use surgical tubing (small) cutinto thin rubber bands. Add one or two to each guide and they will stay put until you wrap allowing very easy adjustments. Once a wrap is started just touch the tubing with an exacto knife and it pops right off.
I’ve read others suggesting that too but haven’t been able to come up with a place to get any. I thought about recycling some of your duct tape tho! : )
WIth the surgical tubing can you slid the guides without having to take them completely off the blank? That’d sure be a time saver.
Yes, you can slide them around all over the place. I generally put on 14 mini rubber bands made from the tubing for a rod with 7 eyes…then position the eyes (roughly) and add 2 bands to each eye. Once I get them approx, I start tuning…it works very well. I’ll see if I can get some up here, I know JannsNetcraft has it and believe MudHole has it but not necessarily worth putting in an order just for a couple feet of tubing worth $1.50 . Did I go overboard on the duct tape withthat box??
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