Winterizing your boat

By Dale Anderson, Recreation Safety Officer
Iowa Department of Natural Resources
Source: Sioux City Journal, Sunday, October 17, 2004
http://www.siouxcityjournal.com/

You’ve had lots of boating fun for the season. Maybe you have big fish tales to tell or maybe you have memories of wonderful water skiing adventures. In any case, if you want next year’s boating season to start out right, now is the time to prepare your boat for winter. Chances are that you have had a bad experience at some time in your boating career with starting your boat motor for the first time in the spring. If you did not winterize your boat before putting it away for the season, I can practically guarantee that you had a bad experience.

The easiest way to winterize your boat is to simply take it to a boat dealer and he can do it for you for around $100. However, if you want to save money and do it yourself, here is a little checklist of what your boat will need to make it through the winter in good shape.

· Add a fuel stabilizer (like Sta-Bil or OMC 2+4) to the fuel tank according to directions on the bottle.
· Fill (that’s right fill) your gas tank with NON-alcohol fuel. This prevents condensation, oxidization and spoilage of the fuel.
· Start the motor (either in the lake or with flushing muffs installed and connected to your garden hose to keep the engine cool).
· Allow the motor to run for 5-10 minutes to make sure that the treated fuel gets to all parts of the engine.
· Spray fogging oil into the carburetor(s) while the engine is running. You’ll see lots of smoke – that’s good.
· Shut the engine down. (DO NOT run it out of gas. If you have an oil-injection engine, running it out of gas will inject pure oil into the carb which will turn into a gooey mess by spring.)
· After the engine has cooled down, remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly into the cylinders.
· With the kill switch in the “Off” position, turn the engine over a time or two to coat the cylinder walls with fogging oil.
· Inspect the spark plugs and replace with new ones, if necessary.
· Tilt the engine down fully and remove the lower unit oil plugs and drain the gear lube into a pan.
· Check the used lube color for water. If it looks milky, you have a leaking seal. Also, check for metal filings. Either condition will require the attention of your dealer.
· Refill the gear case with lube by inserting the tube in the lower hole and filling it until fluid comes out of the top hole. Replace both fill/vent plugs.
· Check the prop for nicks. A little damage here can cause a big decrease in performance. Small nicks can be repaired, large ones can damage other engine parts and the drive system from vibration. Replace a badly damaged prop.
· Grease all fittings you can find (usually on the motor tilt mechanism, swivel bracket, and steering tube.) Use quality waterproof grease.
· Spray all electrical connections and the fuse panel with a moisture-displacing silicone lubricant.
· Store your motor in an upright position – not tilted.
· Remove the battery, check the fluid level and trickle charge on a board.
· Clean the battery terminals with a soda paste, spray the terminals with a sealant, and store the battery in a warm place.
· Remove the drain plug and drain any water from the bilge and live well. Wire the drain plug to the ignition switch to avoid embarrassment at the boat ramp next spring.
· Remove all life jackets from the boat, wash, dry and store in a dry place.
· Vacuum out the boat and leave a mouse cake or two. Better to find a dead mouse next spring that a live one!
· Cover the boat but allow for air circulation to avoid moisture problems.
· Pack the trailer wheel bearings with grease or, better yet, install Bearing Buddies® to keep moisture out of the bearings and maintain a grease filled environment.
· Check trailer bulbs and spray silicone on all sockets and wiring connectors.
· Put the trailer on blocks and remove the tires to prolong rubber life and thwart would-be tire thieves.

Well, there you have it. You have winterized your own boat, you feel good about it, and you saved yourself a bunch of money -in dealer service fees and in prolonged life of your boat. Happy boating.

Shopping list:

Fuel stabilizer
Fogging oil
Gear lube
Waterproof grease
Moisture-displacing silicone lubricant spray
Battery terminal spray
Mouse bait

Good info, however I disagree with filling the gas tank. I start adding StaBill during the last few trips of the season and run the tank down as low as possible. On that last trip, I’ll give the remaining gas another boost. Then in the spring fill ‘er up with the best non-oxy premium you can find. The last thing I want come spring is 30 gallons of stale gas to burn through.

-J.

Jon your gas should not be stale, that’s why your putting Stabil in it.

Leaving a tank empty (or near) also means that there is a lot of air in the tank. Air contains moisture and the moisture will condense. Leaving the tank near empty promotes condensation and long term, tank rusting.

Who puts the boat away? Mine runs all winter!

Quote:

---

Who puts the boat away? Mine runs all winter!

---

A guy who is lucky enough to have 2 boats!!

No doubt there are clearly 2 camps on this topic. I know what has worked for me.

There is a lot of info on gas degrigation avalible on the net. The one year I had problems with gas was the year I filled my tank before storage.

Truth is I know plenty of guys who don’t do a thing. Turn it off and store it for the winter. No stabil, no fogging, nothing! They just charge up the battery and go in the spring. Go figure!

I was told to unhook your gas line from your motor and run the motor until it stops. Do a lot of you guys do this or do you just run it for like 10-15 mins after putting stabil in it and just leave it. Thanks.

I agree with Jon , My motor man said to run as much gas out as possible and go new gas in spring . he also said the newer boats all have plastic tanks so the tanks don’t rust .

Jon , Where do you buy your non-oxy premium gas ? thanks

When I fish Mille Lacs, I get it at the Cenex in Isle (On 27 across from the old Ozzies)

When I head to Red Wing, I get it at the M&H in Hastings on 61. (They have one pump on the row farthest from 61)

-J.

Quote:

---

I was told to unhook your gas line from your motor and run the motor until it stops. Do a lot of you guys do this or do you just run it for like 10-15 mins after putting stabil in it and just leave it. Thanks.

---

I’ve done it both ways without any problems.

-J.

Good tips guy’s! I have about another week or so till I pull my boat and store it. I have stored my boats with a full tank and with a empty one, never a problem. I like to use sea foam in the tank in the spring and also I only run non-oxy premium gas from Westerlunds Citgo in Malmo, mn. I have not had any fuel problems sence I went to running non-oxy prem. gas. I also run the motor out of gas by un-hooking the fuel line. and spraying a little fogging in each cylinder for the storage season. I like the idea of using wiper fluid! never done that one yet!

I like the idea of using wiper fluid! never done that one yet!

---

Did I miss something here , Bobber.

Na……I was just adding something that I had read in the Gen. forum about using your boat in freezing temeratures. Sorry bout that!

Might be important to note that the procedures outlined above are for OUTBOARDS only.
Hate to think someone out there might ‘winterize’ his/her I/O per these steps only to find a cracked block, blown out freeze plugs or cracked manifolds in the spring

VERY GOOD POINT ED
thank’s.

Yes, I/O need to be done differtly……..those babies don’t drain on their own!

I got lucky this year and bought my first fishing boat. I also have a sailboat and plan to store both boats in my garage until the weather gets really cold. (Obviously, Missouri winters are mild winters compared to Minn., but it still freezes here!) Then I might rent an inside temperature controlled storage place for the fishing boat so I can park my vehicle in the garage. I plan to take a trip down to Lake Tanneycomo in southern MO (lake/river impoundment) to fish for trout in mid November. That lake never freezes and the temps are mild on the lake. However, on the way back to KC, the air temp may get down to freezing when you consider wind chill. Could that damage the outboard? As long as the water drains out of the motor am I OK? I assume that the tips you gave apply after the last fishing trip before prolonged winter storage. Thanks for the advice.

wishn2bfishn,

Once you get the boat out of the water and let the water drain out, turn the motor over one time (preferably with the kill switch engaged) to blow out as much water as possible. I’d be sure the water is out of any live/bait wells. If it’s a roller trailer, you should not have to worry about the boat freezing to the trailer. Good luck on your trip!

Thanks again for the info. I’ll let you know how it goes.

I AM LOOKING FOR A NEW BOAT INSURANCE IF ANYONE HAS ANY GOOD LEADS. I ALREADY HAVE PROGESSIVE, SO THATS ONE I AM NOT LOOKING FOR. IF ANYONE COULD HELP OUT HERE OR SEND ME A EMAIL AND I WILL GIVE YOU THE REASONS WHY I’M LOOKING. MAYBE THEY ARE ALL THE SAME WITH REGARDS TO MY CLAIM.

Awesome Information

Don’t forget about winterizing your electronics also. Remove them from the boat and bring them into the house where it is warm. Many LCD screens can be damaged by freezing temps below zero. Also rememberto bring in the batteries and be sure to disconnect the speedometer and water pressure gauge and drain those lines also to prevent damage to the gauge itself. These are all things I have found out the hard way thru the years. Especially the electronics, with the new color screens getting a bit pricey.