trailer brake conversion

My boat trailer has drum brakes on one axle, and I believe they haven’t worked since I’ve owned this trailer. The hitch is horrible as well. Going to 86 the drum brakes and go with a kit to install disc brakes. Don’t wanna spend the $$, but it’s time.
I see there’s a kit HERE that includes a swing tongue, which would rock. Looks like I take mine off and this one just bolts on? Looks so easy, I thought I’d check with you all to see what you thought.

It states 750lb tongue weight max, and it’s designed for single axle trailers. I do have a tandem axle trailer, but can move the boat back on the trailer to create less tongue weight, which I have a little bit already.
First off, my boat doesn’t require a tandem axle trailer and is commonly sold with a single. I do like the tandem tho, and brakes are applied to the rear axle only.
So, how do you figure out what your tongue weight is? I’ve never had to worry about it, but am also curious about how it’s done.
Still ok to use this item if I can get below the 750lb tongue weight (which I’m probably under right now anyways)?

Thanks for info and suggestions guys.

I assume you have hydraulic surge brakes now?

I have hydraulic surge disc brakes now and I am waiting for them to fail on me so I can change them over to electric. In my opinion electric brakes are the way to go.

If you already have drum brakes and the backers are already installed, you could convert them fairly easily. Just buy the electric backer plates and run the wires to each side. You could even add on the 2nd axle. You can never be too safe, and having more than enough trailer brakes isn’t a bad thing.

Let us know what you come up with.

elec brakes do have some problem with being submerged in water just a fyi……i run ranger trail hydraulic surge disc and have zero problems…..

my boat/trailer is a 1998….

I have converted from drum brakes to disk. You will love it. Electric and regulator drum brakes on a boat trailer are nothing but trouble. Because you back into the water. They require a lot of maint to keep them function. It’s an easy conversion. I see your kit is a manual backing lockout. Disk brakes are so efficient that you will have a very hard time backing the trailer up unless the brake line or actuator is blocked off when in reverse. If you can add a backing solenoid. This is in-line between the actuator and the disks. Usually attached to the actuator and the brake line. This solenoid is hooked up to your backup light circuit. Looks like some of the other kits come with one. But not with the swing option. If you have your heart set on the swing tongue option call and ask if a backing solenoid can be added. That way the brake line will lockout every time you put it in reverse. Looks like for $200 more you could do both axels. The price on your kit is reasonable. If you love electric brakes they make an actuator called electric over hydraulic. You get clean running low maintenance disk brakes with the proportioning action of electric brakes. But they are kind of spendy approx. 500.00. Best of both worlds. Tongue weight can be done with a bathroom scale. Unless it is higher than the scale limit. Tongue weight should be about 10% of the trailer gross wt. See photo for alt method

Thanks guys. Yes, have drum brakes now, and I don’t believe they’ve worked since I had the thing. I’m not even going to look at electric brakes. One other reason for that is because when someone else pulls my boat, we won’t have to worry about hook ups as the surge brakes will work with any vehicle.
I’m not good at this stuff, so I’m waiting to chat with my buddy who will be installing them with me helping. Keep the good stuff comin.

May want to check your hitch rating and check/adjust your tounge weighf anway, I think the typical class III hitch is 600 lb tounge weight max.