electrical issues

Hoping some electrical experts can help me out… I have had 2 issues with my F115 yamaha electrical system for the past few seasons #1)when I started the motor, my fish locator shuts off- I’m guessing due to low voltage from drawing juice to start the motor #2)i had to disconnect all leads (motor cables & accessory cables that go to the main panel on the console) from my battery when I plug in my minn kota charger on it because current was grounding out through some grounding straps on the base of the motor when either the motor cables or accessory cables were left connected.

Today I tried to resolve issue #1 by adding a second battery (one for the motor cables and a second (deep cycle) for the accessory ones). When I turned the key on with this setup, the engine didn’t “chirp” as it normally did, letting me know everything is OK. I thought maybe I shouldn’t have run the cables to separate batteries, so I tried wiring back as I had it previously but it still wouldn’t chirp. I turned the key further and it does turn the engine over (and I’m guessing it would start but I didn’t have it wet to try it).

My questions… is it OK to run those cables to two separate batteries? Should the lack of the “chirp” be cause for concern? Finally, any ideas on the current running through the grounding straps when charging if left connected? I’ve done some troublshooting and am thinking the issue might be in the extension leads that are hooked up to get me to the battery. They have fuses in them, but there are already in line fuses from the factory in the cables from the charger. The negative on the extension is a little corroded. Would I be able to remove this fuse sense it is a second fuse on that line?… or any other ideas on this problem? Thanks in advance for any help!

On issue #1, very common problem when you wire your locator into a fuse block. The fix is just wire the locator directly to the battery, fuse the positive side. The problem with having two batteries is, only the starting battery charges off of the motor. My optimax needs 1000mca to start, I use a 31 group deep cycle as my starting battery and have enough power to start the motors and run all power acceries. I don’t have a clue on the second question

You have done the best solution by using two batteries. Yeah your electronics battery will not charge off the motor, but you will be able to run it for days without a charge. If its just a fish finder you can probably run it for weeks.

For your beeping issue, sounds like something is wrong in the gauges. The beep should come from the dash not the motor. The gauges power should run into the main line in the dash which you probably just wired to the other battery.

Easiest solution is to grab a wire brush and clean every contact until they are spotless, even a little bit of corrosion will make boats act funny. Other than that, it is impossible to tell you what is wrong from a computer hundreds of miles away.

If your fish finder is shutting off when you start the motor you have a problem. Either your battery is too small, it is wore out, or you have a short somewhere.

No clue on the charger issue, but doesnt sound good.

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You have done the best solution by using two batteries. Yeah your electronics battery will not charge off the motor, but you will be able to run it for days without a charge. If its just a fish finder you can probably run it for weeks.

For your beeping issue, sounds like something is wrong in the gauges. The beep should come from the dash not the motor. The gauges power should run into the main line in the dash which you probably just wired to the other battery.

Easiest solution is to grab a wire brush and clean every contact until they are spotless, even a little bit of corrosion will make boats act funny. Other than that, it is impossible to tell you what is wrong from a computer hundreds of miles away.

If your fish finder is shutting off when you start the motor you have a problem. Either your battery is too small, it is wore out, or you have a short somewhere.

No clue on the charger issue, but doesnt sound good.

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kevin is wrong. the BEST solution is rig it right, why have an extra battery taking up space and weight for nothing, when one larger battery will supply plenty of power to start the motor and run all acceseries and charge off of the motor while underway. he is also wrong in his thinking on why the locator shuts off when starting the motor. most likely, your locator is wired into a fuse block because that was the easy way to rig it. simply hardwire it to the starting battery, problem solved. when the starter kicks in when you turn the key, there is a draw down on the system, when you hardwire directly to the starting battery, that draw down doesn’t happen.

I am pretty confused by your number 2? What do you mean you have to disconnect every thing because you charger is grounding out? What happens when the charger is hooked up?

The best solution (seen by most) is not to run all your electronics off of a staring battery.. because there WILL be a day where you fish with the electric all day and end up with a dead starting battery when it is time to go home. And it is absolutely not a good idea to start your motor off of a deep cycle. Deep cycles are made for long slow discharges, not quick draws of power. Even if it has enough CCA it still is not made for that task and it will wear the battery down prematurely. It will work, but it is not ideal. A dual purpose would be a better choice, but I have never seen a group 31 dual purpose.

The best solution is to use an electronics battery, more and more new boats are now coming with a 24v system with 4 batteries, or a 36v with 5. 2 or 3 for the trolling motor, one for the starting battery, and one for electronics and electrical. When hooked up to an appropriate onboard charger, there is nothing to worry about and you will never end the day with a dead starting battery.

Why carry the extra weight of two batteries?
1. so you are not stuck on the water with a dead starting battery at the end of the day
2. so you do not ruin the lifespan of your deep cycle by using it as a cranking battery
3. because it is a HUGE piece of mind.
4. an extra battery if something goes wrong and you need it.
5. because it will eliminate sonar interference caused by motors.

There are 5 good reasons, there are a lot more but I don’t feel like typing them up. Seems like 5 good reasons to carry an extra 40lbs to me.

Blaine’s farm and fleet has 31 group AGM deep cycle / starting (dual purpose) marine rated batteries.

I appreciate all of the thoughts… Thank you! I do understand that I would be best to direct wire my locator to the battery rather than the fuse block. I also would still like the piece of mind of having that second battery, so I am thinking I will direct wire my locators to the deep cycle and keep the fuse block with other accessories tied into the cranking battery. Then I will just have to remember to charge the deep cycle at home, and if it dies on the lake I can always tie them into the starting battery. Any potential problems with this thought? Also, any other things I should check since the “chirp” isn’t happening before I start it up for real? I would hate to ruin it. What are the main things? Oil.. water running through it to cool.. anything else?

To clarify the charging problem… When my onboard charger is hooked up and charging while the motor cables and or fuse block cables are connected, a small grounding strap attached from the motor bracket to the hull heats up (current runs through it). It heated up enough to burn through a transducer cable. My solution so far has been to unconnect evrerything and connect the charger by itself when charging, but this is a pain.

There should be NO grounding strap connected to the hull. Grounding an aluminum boat will cause electrolysis which leads to corrosion. All electrical connections should be 2 wire positive and negative never grounding to the hull.