Power Pro problems

I’ve been using some new Power Pro 10lb test on my Shimano Curado, specifically with bass jigs. Every time out I’m losing at least a jig on a fish. I’ll go to set the hook, and my knot gives.

Anyone else have these problems with this line? Do I need a specific knot on the jig? I’d say there’s a tough spot in the jig eye, but that doesn’t seem to be the case.
Do I need to re-tie after a few fish? If that’s the case, I’d like to go with a better line that I’ll have none of those worries with.

Any suggestions are welcome. This has to end.

way way way way too light of line for bass jigs.

For jigs I use 30# as a very minimum. Usually 30-65. Its not about the breaking point, its about the line diameter and shock resistance.

Really….very interesting. This just proves what I’ve said before: I’m not a bass guy.

Well, I was wondering about that, but don’t wanna give away any casting distance, but I can’t keep losing fish like this, it’s ridiculous. I seemed to have a lot fewer problems with my 10# Sufix Elite I was using! But the PP is nice for an instant hook set.

I use 30# power pro and can spool my quantums with a 3/8oz jig. It is like casting 8# mono.

What kind of knot are you using? If you’re not using a Polymer you probably should be…….If not – try not cutting the tag ends off so close to whatever knot you’re tying b/c it will slip out….

Try the lighter trick also. Instead of trimming the tag end after your knot, pull out a Bic and burn it off leaving about 1/4″ tag. The melting will leave a big knob on the end of the tag which will help it from slipping through if your knot moves.

Check your knot tightness… I have had that problem.. Other wise a Polomar knot will solve issues as well as a longer tag end.

I’m using a version of a cinch knot. It doesn’t slip. If it does, I tie a small knot so it catches, or retie it with a few more twists.

I’m assuming it’s breaking at the knot, but hard to tell when you reel nothing back.

I’m thinking bulking up may be the answer. I just figured 10lb would be plenty, but maybe that’s not the case. It always breaks on the hook set, so the shock is what’s doing it. I sure do like the instant connection to the jig, but I gotta have confidence that it won’t come loose like it’s been doing.

I have noticed nobody has stated the need for re-ties after fish, that makes me feel better.

Definitely try the palomar knot before you change anything else. I’d bet it does the trick.

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way way way way too light of line for bass jigs.

For jigs I use 30# as a very minimum. Usually 30-65. Its not about the breaking point, its about the line diameter and shock resistance.

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I have to respectfully disagree on the line weight being solely the problem, but do agree 10# braid is on the light side…

The choice of line type or weight you fish depends on the conditions of the body of water…rocks, wood, weeds and water clarity.

The shock resistance of a good 10# braid is also affected by the action of the rod. Some of the best jig fishermen use a longer, more moderate MH rod, even crankbait rods with braid to provide that shock absorption.

Here in the upper midwest I catch as many big bass as anyone else I know and never use more than 14# fluoro with jigs…usually 10-12#…I use a 7’4″ Med/Hvy casting rod. I personally have found heavier braid to diminish my overall success when fishing jigs and/or plastics and have switched to fluoro personally and for my clients. Again in my clear water conditions.

The only exception for me are fishing Frogs in heavy cover or punching Milfoil…I use 50# braid and a Hvy/Fast 7’6″ rod then.

It sounds like he may have a knot problem to me, or his line is getting abraded near the end from rocks, Zeebs, etc… etc…

BULK UP TO 20#….PALOMAR KNOT X2

I use PP on all my rods, but they are all spinning gear. My applications and such may be different for sure…. except I use 10# for pretty much everything. The palomar knot as described with the line is as said, something to try before changing everything out. I really can’t remember breaking line off at the knot.

Power-Pro = palomar knot.
Used many sizes and never have an issue with this knot.

You bring up some good points, Tom. No zeebs in Nebraska, but it’s only a matter of time. But I’d like to think the private pits I fish would be the last on the list to get em. I’m not even throwing in trees, or even weeds. No snags at all in this pit, just bouncing it along a sandy bottom, and I know it’s not making a lot of contact with the bottom. I’m hopping it along, so I really don’t believe there’s any abrasion there.

I’m using a MH casting rod as well. It has some give, but setting the hook on a jig seems to be what it’s made for. Works well.

The palomar isn’t one I’m real familiar with, but it looks like I better learn. I’ll take the advice and give it a try before anything else.

Never had a problem EVER with braid pulling out on knots unless you tied your knot putting the line through the wrong side of the tag on a knot, then the knot pulls out. Through the right side of the tag it should cinch your knot tight enough where you shouldn’t have break offs. Might not be your case but that’s the only way I can see it just pulling out.

The knots never pulled out. It’s always been a straight break.

If you are sure that the knot is breaking then the knot you tie will not make a difference. I also agree that 10 lb PP is on the light side for jig fishing. How hard of a hooksetter are you. If you are one of those who almost falls out of the boat each time you set the hook, them my guess if that the lack of stretch in PP is causing the knot to break. My suggestion would be Go up in line size, Longer softer rod, and/or back off on the hooksetter. Good luck. Hope you get it figured out.

You mean “RIPPIN LIPS!” John!

I had a guy on a trip that got really frustrated after missing a few fish that he absolutely reefed back on the next tap!!! The 10″ Rock Bass was launched airborne and he almost fell out of the boat bass ackwards!

You could try checking your knot strength at home or inside the boat. Be careful, braid will cut your fingers. The information inside the PP box used to have suggested knots. Run your fingers down the line, I have seen some manufacturing problems on sections of line

Good points made. I’d like to think I have control of my hook sets. Usually I give em just a second and try (doesn’t always happen) to put both hands on the rod instead of the rod and reel handle. I will say the one I lost last night was farther away, so I might have gotten a little crazy, but damn, it shoulda held up.

Definitely going to be trying some things.

use a Q-tip and check your guides and see if there is one of them that is cracked. that could be putting a weak spot in the line and when you set the hook, it snaps. when i tie the polomar knot, i modify it by wrapping the loop end through twice and then the bait through the loop and tighten with the tag end and trim with a bic lighter. i do this with 10lb through 100lb test

I tie braid with improved clinch 100% of the time and have never had a problem. Like a lot of guys here, I am fishing nearly every day of the year and land thousands of fish on braid each year (walleye, bass, catfish etc). Cant say I ever had a problem with the knot breaking, unless I use too small of line for the application.

Try 30# and you will not have any problems. You will still have amazing sensitivity with 30# and it will save you $100 in jigs.

Always a good tip with using the Q tip, but these are breakin at the jig.

Possible you could have gotten a bad batch of line. The world is an imperfect place.