I’m trying to get my “619” battery/charger set-up where I’ll never have a problem with electronics/radio draining the starting battery and having to jump off of the trolling batteries again. How would you do it? Right now I have 36V trolling batteries on 3 bank charger, never had an issue with this. But, I only have a trickle charger for the 27 series starting battery. I’d like some suggestions please?
Sell the 3 bank and get a 4 bank?
Pull out the trickle charger and add a single bank charger for the starting battery. Then get a three way plug so you can plug both into the same cord. I did this when I switched from a 24 volt to 36 volt. I thought about pulling the 3 bank charger out and replacing it with a 4 bank, but $450 for a four bank, or $125 to add a single seemed like the smart thing to do. If your existing charger is on it’s last leg then dump it and add a 4 bank.
Would this be better than installing another 29 series starting battery and switching electronics to the 29 and have a battery A/B & both switch to be charged off of motor and leaving trickle to top off when at dock or garage? I’d like to do both (4 bank & extra battery for electronics), but room is an issue.
What all are you running off the series 27 used for the started. I had a marine dual purpose which was smaller than a 27 and rand radio/light/depthfinder/livewell/etc and never had a problem running it down to the point it would not start the outboard….even if I didn’t plug in the on-board charger some nights. Are you going for extended times without charging the starter battery…..or it is more or less the trickle charge that isn’t cutting it?
Granted…I did worry about the 1 off time I drew the starting battery down too far. A/B switch and another battery may be the way to go here for a fail safe system….and an onboard!
All I run is two locators, livewell, baitwell. I would like to run the radio at times, but I know I would have problems. The battery is 5 years old, but had it checked and verified it is good. I was relying on the motor charging the battery while running out almost 15 miles each way and hopping between islands to find fish. It is a Merc, so I know they require alot for starting though.
A 5 year old battery needs to be replaced. I don’t care what the test shows. That will improve your situation right away. Then a dedicated charger or 4th bank to the starting battery will take care of it. You should be able to run the radio, livewell, baitwell, & electronics without affecting the battery to the point it won’t start the big motor – unless you’re going multiple days without a charge.
I think this is the way I’m going to go along with increasing the size of battery if possible. I still have to check to see if I should get a dual purpose battery?
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All I run is two locators, livewell, baitwell. I would like to run the radio at times, but I know I would have problems.
Sounds like you have a battery issue or maybe a battery drain issue? You should not have to worry with just running those items over a day….especially if you running 15 miles each way each day and high throttle.
Maybe your engine rectifier is not charging properly as well and is compounding the issue?
I had no problems running graph, radio, lights, livewell, etc on my starter battery all days long and it was 7 years old and smaller than a series 27. The Yami F115 would start up right away no problem. Although maybe the bigger ones require a lot more CCA than my 115 did.
I also just had diagnostics checked on the motor and everything was perfect. I know Merc says you need 1000CCA & 800 MCA, which is what I have. I am also consistent on turning the main breaker off to battery before leaving for the night at dock and when sitting in the garage. The only thing that remains “on” when breaker is off is power to the motor and that I am told is for the computer which also goes into sleep mode to conserve power.
What brand dual purpose battery was it and do you know if they come in 29 or 31 series?
I purchased a Fleet Farm brand. I do believe I noticed a group 29, but didn’t pay much attention to it as it had more CCA than I would ever need.
I’ve got a related issue and unsure which direction to go now. I have a 24volt trolling moter set-up amd a 3 bank charger. I posted this issue a while back where my starting motor battery was getting discharged while not in use. It was suggested I leave the battery hooked up to a charger while not in use since I havea remote GPS antenna which may be causing a drain . I’ve gone to leaving the charging system hooked up and have what appears to be a full charge ( lights all green on the charger ), but after 2 hours of using the trolling motor, livewell and sonar/.gps units I appears to get low voltage because the GPS/Sonar units shut off. The starting battery is new a 29 from Battery Plus. Not sure what to do. I’ve been carrying a spare starting battery just as a back up to jump if I needed to, but don’t know what’s cuasing the problem of how to fix it. suggestions?
I just got done changing my starting battery to a 31 series Optima and added a single bank, 10 amp charger for it alone. I have a main breaker to disconnect everything except motor computer when I get out of the boat, so my issue is only when I’m in the boat. After I swapped to Optima, I did a test run of running locator, lights, and radio. It seems like my problem is the radio, it must draw a lot of power, as I can just watch the volt meter go down according to the volume I have it on. Do you run off of your trolling batteries with electronics? I have nothing hooked to my trolling batteries, all electronics run off of starting.
I have the trolling motor batteries running trolling motor only. The voltage drop starting happening when I changed my GPS/Sonar unit to a Huminbird that uses a remote GPS puck. Prior to that I never had my GPS/Sonar units shut off due to low voltage. I usually do run with my marine radio on. I also will turn on the livewell areator I replaced my starting batteries every other year. and this year was a new battery as well.
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