Hole repair Alumacraft

  • mugs
    Ramsey, Mn
    Posts: 19
    #1238949

    I have an ’09 Alumacraft Navigator sport

    Long story short, I have 3 (screw) holes on the side of my boat. It looks like it is just above where the water line would be.

    Not sure how to fix this. To get me by short term I put clear silicon in and around the holes, but I don’t want to leave it like this.

    I thought I would use a dremel to smooth out the holes (screws went from inside to out)and use JB Waterweld. Has anyone used this? What else can I do to fix this, or can anyone point me in the right direction who knows how to fix this?

    mossydan
    Cedar Rapids, Iowa
    Posts: 7727
    #1067506

    I hit a sharp rock docking my aluminum jon boat on a rocky shoreline and ripped a hole about an inch wide and a couple inches long below the waterline. The rip was right where the bottom of the boat goes from flat and starts to to curve up twards the front. There was no way it would sit in the water and not take on water, the bilge pump would always run.

    I got it home and pounded the aluminum back to the flat position and applied JB weld to both inside and out. I pre sanded the aluminum so it would remove the paint and primer and any dirt etc. so the metal would be clean and applied the JB weld to both sides and let it harden. I put on the slow hardening and cure type and it took overnight to harden and cure. This was probably 15 years ago and it still doesn’t leak. Silicone in the screw holes (has) to be removed, nothing will stick to pure silicone. Sand the surface on both sides if you can of the screw holes and definately remove the silicone in the holes. If I remember right the only thing that cuts silicone is acetone and it does not do it that well, like completely remove it. Look on the back of a tube of silicone and look at the information on clean up, how to clean it up, I do alot of painting and I don’t know of a good silicone removeimg chemical, if there is one.(This is just for personal information but Silicone is unpaintable and the paint will come off, siliconized acrilic caulk is paintable). After the silicone is sanded off and removed then put on JB weld, the slow cure type is what I use just because I personally think the slower cure type is more durable. JB welds the best I know of and it does work and is paintable. Acrilic and epoxy resins won’t stick as good as JB weld, use that.

    Heres a story about how good JB weld is. I heard from a guy who worked in a machine shop that machined raceing motors for guys who raced locally. An engine was brought in that blewup and he had to save and use this engine. The machine shop boiled the parts to get them clean, put the parts back together useing JB weld and remachined them to the tolerances they had to be. The engine was rebuilt and put back into the raceing car, 200 mph. plus track, and it blew up again, they race hard here at a one mile oval asphault track. They brought the engine back to the shop, they tore it down and where it broke this time wasen’t where the jb weld was, it was broken in new places, but this time the engine was beyond repair. So this is how good and strong JB weld is, so don’t be afraid to use it because it sticks and holds well.

    wildfan
    Ogilvie Minnesota
    Posts: 598
    #1067513

    I have been working industrial maintence for over 20 years and started at a new employer 5 years ago. When I started at the new shop I ordered some JB Waterweld for quick repairs to metal and water/air lines made of metal, the other guys laughed at the stuff,now all of them have it there tool boxes . I have repaired gas tanks also with the stuff and all the repairs I have made with it are still holding fine today!

    mossydan
    Cedar Rapids, Iowa
    Posts: 7727
    #1067514

    Finially Wild, a good gastank repair material,

    onestout
    Hudson, WI
    Posts: 2698
    #1067535

    I’ve used the 2 part radiator repair with very good success. I have repaired holes below the water line and still have no leaks on that boat now going on 15 years. Make sure it is very clean on both sides and come at it with the repair material from both sides and knead it together.

    smackem
    Iowa Marshall Co
    Posts: 956
    #1067539

    From the inside out? Someone has been mounting more stuff to the inside of their boat Bout did the same thing 2 weeks ago OUCH

    kroger3
    blaine mn
    Posts: 1116
    #1067549

    Its a fairly new boat so take it to a boat repair/restoration shop and have it done right by welding and re-painting the area.

    If you do patch work eventually you will have to do it again and your always going to worry if your patch is going to hold.

    joshbjork
    Center of Iowa
    Posts: 727
    #1067559

    I would not get too excited about a couple of screw holes above the water line.

    If you want a nice repair, I would probably put solid rivets in the holes with some sealant.

    If you’re going to fill them with JB, you could put a little backer piece on there for more surface area.

    Or, find something to mount in that spot. Like a little board to mount some marker bouys on or a fire extinguisher or whatever.

    Joel Ballweg
    Sauk City, Wisconsin
    Posts: 3295
    #1067622

    A simple way to remove silicone from the inside of a screw hole before repairing it is to run a slightly larger drill thru the hole.

    Denny O
    Central IOWA
    Posts: 5815
    #1067732

    Duck Tape!

    At least that is what Red Green told me was the best to use.

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