After 132K miles of absorbing service I finally replaced my shocks. Man what a difference. Rides like new again. Also replaced rear drum brakes (yes rear drums on an 06 go figure) and it stops like new again. I’m not gonna even mention wheel bearings and front diff. 
Now if the engine and tranny hold together I am all set! I’m a fluid junkie so I change all the fluids regularly. How are other member high mileage vehicles doing?
We just sold my 2000 Durango with 151K today…kinda sad to see the Huntin’ Rig go .. 
Got 230ish on the 03 duramax.
98 Blazer with just over 300K but she’s on her death bed, started leaking every fluid now so I don’t trust it for anything now.
94 Jeep Grand Charokee over 320 now! Hopefully i get a year or two out of it yet.
94 Jeep Grand Charokee over 320 now! Hopefully i get a year or two out of it yet.
276,000 miles on the burb. She keeps on trucking. Just changed out one of the original drive shaft u-joints today. NOT FUN!!!!!!! Teflon sealed u-joint where you have to torch it out.
Transfer case leaks.
Tranny leaks
Front Diff leaks
Engine leaks out of valve cover gasket, front main seal, rear main seal.
But, she hardly burns any oil.
I do believe the cam is starting to flatten out. She just doesn’t have the power. No blow-by, but just not the power anymore.
Still on original shocks and she rides like a lumber wagon.
Front end suspension is still original, but tie-rods, pit-man arm, upper and lower ball joints are worn out.
Check engine light was on for 150,000 miles because of claimed plugged cat-converters, but it is the O2 sensors. Check engine light burned out (bulb burned out) about 30,000 miles ago.
I religously change my oil every 10,000-12,000 miles.
Never changed the tranny fluid yet.
But, she starts every morning!!!!
I want 350,000 miles out of her. I’ll drive her till she pukes and leaves me stranded. Then I’ll replace her.
I have no money into it other than 1 fuel pump and 1 alternator.
Cheap truck!
132k is a low mileage vehicle to me…
95 Ford Taurus with 240. Still has original exhaust and on 2nd battery. Wifes car.
My 2000 intrepid has 275k only changed alternater,shift cable, battery it has the bad motor in it also. Talk about getting lucky it definitly doesnt owe me a thing keeps on chugging along though.
I have 110,000 on my 2000 Durango. Needs some body work but runs great. I actually have an extended warranty that I bought 2 years ago for a 6 yr/ 100,000 mile coverage. So it’s covered bumper to bumper for the next 4 years and/or next 80,000 miles.
Just over 267K on my 1997 Dakota. chrysler 318, best motor they have made yet!
289,xxx on my 2001 powerstroke. All stock 7.3. Replaced the pedestal gaskets on the turbo, new exhaust up pipes, tranny and coolant filters… lotsa power still. Hope to get 500,000+ out of it
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After 132K miles of absorbing service I finally replaced my shocks.
I gotta do that on my car. It’s at 125K on the originals, and it feels like it 
141k on my ’02 Chevy pickup. new tranny 2 years ago, Breaks redone, right front wheel bearing replaced, new u-joints……….I’m praying I can limp it thru the next 18-24 months
144,000 on my 2002 Olds Bravada. I’m now replacing all the usual stuff that goes bad starting at 100k. The starter crapped out last winter, I’m going to have the alt and water pump replaced next service.
Just changed oil last Sat and noticed grease is slinging out of the passenger side CV joint boot. So that’ll have to be done soon as well. Oh and the tires are shot so that’ll be $800+.
But all this is wear and tear items that eventually go on all vehicles. I’m a big believer in synthetic oil and tranny fluid and I’ve been running Mobil 1 in all my vehicles since 1989. I’ve never had an engine that used any detectable amount of oil between changes when I got rid of the vehicle, and the lowest mileage vehicle I’ve ever sold had 156k on it.
My goal with the Bravada is 200k. We’ll see, I’ve heard that the two deal-breakers are the AWD transfer case and the rear self-leveling air shocks. I’ve been told that both are $2-3k replacements, so hopefully they hold out.
Grouse
Tires kill me. Its the one known perpetual expense.
I bought cheap tires last time and will barely get 2 years/50 thousand out of them. If Im lucky.
Tires are a joke, 2 years ago my same tires were 300 bucks cheaper for my truck. If they were useful as long as they claim it wouldn’t be such a kick in the boys but the last half of their claimed mileage they are crap
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Tires kill me. Its the one known perpetual expense.
I bought cheap tires last time and will barely get 2 years/50 thousand out of them. If Im lucky.
Tell me about it.
Cheap tires! That’s a good one. 
Mrs. Grouse, being one of those EuroForeigners insists on driving damn German cars. The current SchnitzelBurner uses tires that are about 5/8 of an inch high and 2 feet wide. Times 4. And of course, it’s AWD, so that and Mrs. Grouse’s–errrrm–“assertive” driving habits burn off tires at roughly the same rate as Kyle Bush during an closely contested NASCAR race.
Sadly, there could be but one outcome. The KrautKarr needs tires about every 30k. Cost? Thanks for asking. 
About $300 per tire. Again, thanks for bringing it up. Yes, that is the cheapest I could find.
But I make her buy the tires with her own money. 
At least that’s what she tells me.
Grouse
I just cringed. And lauged. Then cringed again…
2003 silverado with 148,000. Engines seems good, transmission fine, shocks probably need replacing. Am I crazy to think the rear shocks should be in much better condition than the front and only need to replace the front since that is where the weight is mostly at? I will be needing my 4th set of tires this fall. 
I’ve never done front shocks only. Brakes all the time but not shocks. You can find good deals online for shocks. My last several pair have been online. I always replace OEM with Bilstien.
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I’ve never done front shocks only. Brakes all the time but not shocks. You can find good deals online for shocks. My last several pair have been online. I always replace OEM with Bilstien.
Thanks Mike. I will replace them all.
01 silverado x-cab. 4.8 and 211,000 miles. Both front wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, fuel pump and a u joint. Brakes lasted till 170,000 or so, on 3rd set of tires. I do drive it easy. The sucky part is the dang rocker panels and rear wheel openings are rusted . It’s been a great truck and I wouldn’t hesitate to drive it across the country. knock on wood very hard 
Just got the front end alligned last night. Better but they did not fix the right pull all the way. I need to head back to Merit Chev and find out why.
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