Will have my new Terrova 101 and 3 bank charger this Saturday. I’ll be needing 3 new batteries and being I’m changing from a 24VDC system to a 36 VDC system I’ll need an extra battery tray. I haven’t tried the Interstates before so I’m asking what you guys like and where to find a good tray that will keep my extra battery in place.
Thanks Mark
Can’t tell you about the try, but I had an Interstate that was “out of warrenty” because of the serial number, but I only owned it for 10 months.
A 5 minute call to Interstate Distributor and I was walking out the door with a new battery at no charge.
Happy Camper! 
Why did you only own it for 10 months ? Just wondering if you had bad luck with the overhaul performance of the battery or what ?
Yup I read about that when I did a battery search on here. Going to measure tonight and see if I can get 29’s in there and yes I got the 60 amp breaker too
http://www.odysseybattery.com Research the Odyssey Batteries, They are the “premium” upgrade on the Skeeters delivered at Skeeter Boat Center. 
VERY HAPPY WITH MY INTERSTATE BATTERIES!
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Why did you only own it for 10 months ? Just wondering if you had bad luck with the overhaul performance of the battery or what ?
At the time, it wouldn’t hold a charge. I would plug in the MinKota Smart Charger when finished using it and after 6 hours of starting, radios, sonar and spot light..it would either be dead or on it’s last leg.
Painful for a guide that goes out at night.
Turns out this fall I needed to replace my fly wheel because the ring gear was getting stripped out.
Guess why? The magnets had fallen out (and the motor wasn’t charging at all) I don’t think there was anything wrong with the battery. 
What group and type are you guys running on your trolling motors?
I have had good luck with interstate. Good enough that I just replaced all my batteries with more interstates. I have heard good things about Odyssey as well, and had good luck with Optima in my previous boat.
I won’t comment on the batteries, but these trays are about as nice as I’ve seen. A little spendy though
Oh now we’re talking trays I like
Always check the date code on the end of battries. I’ve seen batteries in someplaces that were over a year old and still on the shelves. I had several Interstate batteries a few years ago – Overall was not happy with them. They tended to discharge faster than other brands that I used in the past. I only got about a summer and a half of use on them before they were bad.Believe it or not I’ve had good luck with the everstart batteries sold at Walmart.
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What group and type are you guys running on your trolling motors?
If you have the space and $ i’d run all 29 series
What ‘thumper said.
I’ve had interstate batteries for the last ten years. I have not had any issues with them and hdimg their charge. I only bass fish so when I to out o am using the trolling motor for eight plus hrs at a time and still have juice at the end of the day. (24 volt). Like some of the above posts have said, if you have any issue they are very willing to help and did it for you ASAP.
Are those the SRM-29’s?
My interstate batteries have frozen the last two winters. Will not buy them again.
I switched to Interstate because of the declining quality of Walmart Ever Starts.1st set lasted 4 seasons. The last set lasted 2 months replaced then 2 months and problems again. Frozen Batteries are not a battery problem. They are indication you have something drawing power in your boat. Its drawing the charge down until it can freeze the battery. Any newer outboard with a direct injection etc still draws power to the computer while its off. Also Minnkota auto pilots draw juice if you leave them plugged in. The newer Terrova disconnects itself from power when stowed so you can leave it plugged in. A livewell left on etc. Install an electrical kill switch at the battery and cut the power to all accessories,trolling mtr every time you leave the lake. When storing in winter charge all batteries and disconnect positive power cable and they will never freeze. In fact new batteries are kept in cold storage.
Mwal
I’ve got 2 Optima batteries for my TM. Bought new in 2003. Still using them. The only issue I’ve had is when my charger decided it didn’t want to charge one bank. New charger last 2 years ago.
Cabelas AGM batteries. You won’t be disappointed. These hold a charge better then the interstates I had before.
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Cabelas AGM batteries. You won’t be disappointed. These hold a charge better then the interstates I had before.
X2! Best for the $
We picked up some cheap battery trays from fleet farm. The bigger drop in type. They work great for holding the batteries in place.
As far as batteries go, if money is not an issue optima is the way to go and they’re made by interstate. Otherwise the 29 series green top batteries are the way to go!! I love interstate’s warranty and as someone who sells the car batteries I’ve seen them go through a lot of torture and keep going. We get some that come into our shop that are 7 or 8 years old and keep on kicking.
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What group and type are you guys running on your trolling motors?
I have 29’s for my 101.
Ran Interstate’s since sometime in the early 80″s if I remember right, always been a good battery.
I’d get three years out of them and give them to my neighbor, he’s use them for a couple years then.
I’d still have the Interstate’s instead of the calbela’s AGM batteries I have now, if a club member hadn’t promised discount interstate’s and then screwed around till the day before a trip and I had to buy the cablela batteries.
I will say the AGM batteries have worked well, we’ll see about longivity in a couple years though.
Al
While not all batteries are created equal, longevity soley relies on proper maintenance. For example: Using distilled water, not tap water if you have to top off fluids.
The true kiss of death to ANY battery is leaving them uncharged for any length of time. If you properly charge your batteries after every use, even if it is an hour of usage, you should expect several years out of your battery.
“Smart” chargers are the only way to go, meaning your batteries won’t over charge.
The other best advice I can give is to take a multi-meter with you when you purchase a battery. NEVER-EVER-EVER purchase a battery that is lower than 12.7 volts. NEVER! 12.8 volts would be better. A battery that is on the shelf that is below 12.7 volts is losing it’s “full capacity” of charging and sulfation is already building on the lead plates. Once the sulfation starts, it is difficult to reverse it.
If you are unsure of your current battery status, you can perform a simple check at home. After fully charging your batteries, leave them sit for 48 hours OFF the charger, full disconnected to any device/cable/wire. After 48 hours, your batteries have “calmed down” from charging. If your batterie are at the following volts, you’ll know your status:
12.7 – 12.8: Full to advertised amperage level
12.6: 80% of advertised amperage level
12.5: 60% of advertised amperage level
12.4: 40% of advertised amperage level
12.2: 20% of advertised amperage level
12.0: “dead” battery, that has no amp hours.
Keep your batteries fully charged at all times and you’ll never have to replace them unless they internally break.
Lastly, to truly extend battery life, get a “desulfator”
http://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/12-volt/OBD-12.html
I run 27s; i don’t have the space for 29s. I run a 24 volt trolling motor.
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