Boat Trailer Lights- What I’ve learned

It was just a few short months ago when someone posted about trailer lights.

I was bragging that I never disconnect them when loading or unloading my boat and never had to replace a bulb in 11 years of owning it.

About a month or so ago I had one side go out. Thought it was funny that I was just bragging and then one goes out. Then it went out again and again. Every time the trailer hit the water the same bulb shattered.

Turns out that Shorelander light at least mine, are made with sealed top, sides and an open bottom. The lighting fixture works like and upside down cup when submerged in water…not letting any water in. I figured with the open bottom, water was free to enter.

Once there’s a crack in any portion of the sides or the top, water is free to enter the fixture and “pop” my 1157 light bulb.

Since I’m having a heck of a time getting a new tail lamp, I bought a new version of the 1157, it’s all LED’s. At 3 times the price, I hope this will solve my flooded tail light problem.

Slow learner, arn’t cha.

I got LED’s on my shorelander, so far so good. I never unplug them.

Had same issue early with my trailer 8 yrs ago. Started unplugging and had no more issues unitl this spring . Now I keep blowing the fuse for the tail lights and marker lights. Replaced all markers and fixed a couple questionalble spots in the wire harness. Next step is to replace tail lights. Definition of a boat – a hole in the water that you throw $$$$ into !!!

Buckeye, if your blowing fuses, I think you would be better off focusing on the wiring and not the lights themselves.

One of your power wires is touching the frame (someplace).

I’m tempted to go to the LED lights….except for the fact that the last three lights I’ve lost have been in the parking lot when someone else smashed into my trailer. Expensive high tech LED lights probably are as easy to wreck as good old fashioned incandescent bulbs are.

I hope the cost of the LED lights comes down. Remember when the LED flashlights first came out? They were ridiculously expensive but now they’re very reasonable. Hopefully the same will happen with the LED trailer lights.

Rootski

Brian you sound smart today ,who you been talking too

LED is the only way to go

Even with sealed lights, you should ALWAYS unplug your trailer lights.

With the trailer lights being connected to your vehicle’s electrical system if there is a short in your trailer wiring when you back it into the water you can blow out your vehicle lighting, etc.

Maybe you can get away with not unplugging your trailer and never have a problem, but if it bites you…

Quote:

---

Brian your sound smart today ,who you been talking too

---

I was in Iowa Saturday.

Trailer lights were the bane of my earthly existence until I converted to LED.

For those of you still running incandescent, you will not BELIEVE the difference. Brighter, completely reliable, no need to unplug (although I do because it doesn’t hurt) when backing in, vastly more durable.

I used to be out there trying to troubleshoot lights all the time. Since converting all 3 trailers to LED, I haven’t touched them in 3 years. Not a single issue ever.

A couple of notes:

– For reasons of amperage draw, you may or may not be able to mix incandescent side markers and LED tail lights. LED’s seem to require a minimum voltage and/or amperage (I’m not sure which) and once the combined drop caused by wires and other lights on the circuit goes below that minimum, the LEDs won’t light at all. It’s not like incandescent where they will just be dim.

– Because LED’s are more expensive, you will want to protect them. I’ve been fabricating custom tail and side marker protectors for long-distance boat haulers for years and these protectors VASTLY reduce the number of broken tail lights both from rocks and road debris and from accidental contact with boats while loading/unloading. PM me if you’re interested.

Grouse

My biggest reason for not converting to LED’s is because I thought I had to change the whole light fixture.

Had I known I could just buy a replacement bulb that had LED’s I would have done this…well a few months ago when it first went out.

Under $15. for 2 lights.

Quote:

---

My biggest reason for not converting to LED’s is because I thought I had to change the whole light fixture.

Had I known I could just buy a replacement bulb that had LED’s I would have done this…well a few months ago when it first went out.

Under $15. for 2 lights.

---

I didn’t realize you could do this. Thanks Brian!

FDR

Hey BK, I also own a Shorelander trailer and 5 yrs ago I replaced all my OEM lights with LED’s.. The BEST move I ever made. Total cost for the entire trailer was $140.. Money well spent, I never have to unplug lights..

Where are you guys getting your LED marker lights?

I have a yellow one that’s on the fritz.

Quote:

---

Where are you guys getting your LED marker lights?

I have a yellow one that’s on the fritz.

---

Tons of them on eBay. Best to have a look and see if you can match the OEMs closely so you don’t have to drill new holes.

See my comment above and be aware that it may be difficult to mix LED and incandescent lights and get things to work properly.

Luckily I was tipped of about this by a buddy who is an EE and he experineced the issue when redoing his trailer and trying to mix LED and incandescent. He was able to figure out exactly what was going on, where I would have gone insane.

Grouse

I bought my LED side markers at Northern Tool.

I hear ya Grouse. They were telling me I might need a resistor placed in line. I walked out to the trailer, installed the bulb and no problem. On my merry way home.

For one marker light, I’m guessing the shipping would be more than the bulb.

Thanks for all the input..you too Ryan!

BK, try http://www.overtons.com