Using a Trolling Plate

  • iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    #1238402

    Hello! I am trying to figure out what the best setup will be for my Nitro fish and ski for walleye trolling. I know I could have bought a “walleye boat” but this one was just the right one at the right time for my first boat. There is no room for a kicker and I am considering a new bow mount troller with auto pilot or the cheaper alternative is a “trolling plate”. Has anyone ever used a trolling plate? I see Cabela’s has a few to chose from like this one below. It would be an easy install and the reviews seem very good.

    http://www.cabelas.com/product/Boating/Boating-Outboards-Accessories/Trolling-Plates-Stabilizers%7C/pc/104794380/c/104752980/sc/104655780/Trol-A-Matic-Trolling-Plate/699629.uts?WTz_l=SBC%3BBRprd737690%3Bcat104655780

    john_steinhauer
    p4
    Posts: 2998
    #958500

    I use to run one when I lived in Grand Rapids, MN. I had no complaints, I ran it on a older 90hp Johnson. It helped be able to have the throttle advanced a little more yet still stay at slower speeds.

    John Schultz
    Inactive
    Portage, WI
    Posts: 3309
    #958502

    A friend of mine had one on his boat for one season. It was a pain in the butt and wouldn’t always release. He got really frustrated with it and took it off after the one season. You would be better off running a couple trolling bags off the front cleats, IMO.

    iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    #958503

    Quote:


    A friend of mine had one on his boat for one season. It was a pain in the butt and wouldn’t always release. He got really frustrated with it and took it off after the one season. You would be better off running a couple trolling bags off the front cleats, IMO.


    I have thought about a trolling bag, only problem with my boat is that it is setup mostly for bass fishing right now, not much for cleats up front. Any suggestions on mounting cleats on fiberglass? LOL

    John Schultz
    Inactive
    Portage, WI
    Posts: 3309
    #958526

    Quote:


    Quote:


    A friend of mine had one on his boat for one season. It was a pain in the butt and wouldn’t always release. He got really frustrated with it and took it off after the one season. You would be better off running a couple trolling bags off the front cleats, IMO.


    I have thought about a trolling bag, only problem with my boat is that it :is setup mostly for bass fishing right now, not much for cleats up front. Any suggestions on mounting cleats on fiberglass? LOL


    Duct tape?

    smackem
    Iowa Marshall Co
    Posts: 956
    #958599

    Biggest piece of crap I’ve ever tried. Fought that sucker all summer and removed it. Try backing up with a plate hooked on. Prop that sucker and if that’s not enough throw a sock over.

    gonzo50613
    Cedar Falls, Iowa
    Posts: 170
    #958616

    I installed an “Easy Troller” trolling plate on my 115 Johnson last summer.
    While I will admit that the plate is a bit of a hassle it does work well. I think it is easier to deal with than a drift sock.
    The biggest problem that I have is that it doesn’t engage or release quite as easily as I’d like. Sometimes I just shut off the motor, raise it up position the plate and then lower the motor back down.
    Also, with mine I’ve needed to add an additional slot at about 45 degrees, otherwise with the plate straight down it takes alot of throttle to make forward progress.
    All in all I would say they work well but are a bit of a hassle… much cheaper than a kicker though.

    iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    #958628

    Thanks for the info! John, thanks for the tip, maybe gorilla glue?

    Brian Hoffies
    Land of 10,000 taxes, potholes & the politically correct.
    Posts: 6843
    #958634

    Finding a way to hook a drift bag isn’t that hard. Give it some thought. Worse case scenario run it off your front seat post.

    Drilling and mounting a cleat on each side is the way to go, and it will be the cheapest. Put down a piece of masking tape before drilling and use a smaller pilot hole.

    Tilt the main motor, throttle way down, drop the bags and you are good to go.

    If drilling into the glass scares you try drifting………it might just get the job done for you without the added expense.

    jon_jordan
    St. Paul, Mn
    Posts: 10908
    #958670

    I run the bag off the front bow eye and let the bag run up under the boat. Just make sure the rope is short enough to not run up into the prop.

    Another option is a Minnkota EM. I switch between the two options on my boat.

    -J.

    John Schultz
    Inactive
    Portage, WI
    Posts: 3309
    #958685

    Quote:


    I run the bag off the front bow eye and let the bag run up under the boat. Just make sure the rope is short enough to not run up into the prop.

    Another option is a Minnkota EM. I switch between the two options on my boat.

    -J.


    Both really good options there. I ran a single bag off the bow eye on my old 16 foot boat and it worked great. Have never experience the engine mount TMs but expect they would work well.

    Denny O
    Central IOWA
    Posts: 5827
    #958748

    I run dual bags of equal size and lengths, 1 on each side of the bow. I added 1 cleat to each side up front and tie off the existing cleats near my windshield. Knotted the loops on each end of a ¼” braided nylon line and the sock is knotted in the line both are identical.

    I used to do only one off the side and gave that up this year, as one sock was a pain having to man the course direction. The twins are very easy to deploy and run with the I-Pilot running the direction course, and my big motor supplying the speed. I can man two line counters by my self and not have to be in the drivers seat.

    Without the socks I would run 3.4 to 3.8 mph depending on wind and/or river flow. Now I can kick down to .8 to whatever speed I like. Usually it will lie at about 1.4 to 1.7 if I remember right.

    I should have done it years ago!

    iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    #958768

    Here is one other issue I have to take in to consideration before I really do anything. The motor, when engaged at any speed, wants to pull to the right. The trim tab is all the way to the right already so my marine mechanic friend said I will probably need new “no feedback” cables. I am under the assumption the cables are original.

    A sock would work good, maybe I could rig up a bungee cord to hold the wheel straight otherwise it would get real old holding the wheel all day to keep course.

    shaley
    Milford IA
    Posts: 2178
    #958779

    Keep in mind this is a bass boat, not designed for trolling. Plate will help slow you down but as others stated can be a pain, drift bags off the bow also helps hold the bow down so in even small waves you will take water over the bow, a good walleye chop you will get wet. On calm waters the bow mounts all you’ll need for trolling.

    Brian Hoffies
    Land of 10,000 taxes, potholes & the politically correct.
    Posts: 6843
    #958930

    I was under the impression this is a fish & ski? That would indicate a deeper hull then a bass boat.

    Could still use socks but I would tie them off more towards mid hull then up front.

    matt-p
    White Bear Lake, MN
    Posts: 643
    #958938

    If you tie them off towards the windshield I think that will work just fine. If your going forward just make sure the ropes are short enought that they won’t hit the prop..

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