Walleye trolling with Nitro

  • iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    April 15, 2011 at 1:57 pm #1238390

    Hey guys,
    Just bout a 1997 Nitro 185 F/S with a 150 Merc and a 54 lb Motorguide troller. All original equipment, this is my first boat and have been used to running my Dad’s 1980’s Sea Nymph. The only downside to the boat is the lack of place for a kicker motor. How would a newer Minn-Kota Power-Drive V2 or Terrova with Auto-Pilot be able to run all day while slow trolling?

    russ0101
    Brooklyn Park, mn
    Posts: 102
    April 15, 2011 at 2:33 pm #957484

    or could use a drift sock

    1700walleyeDan
    Posts: 20
    April 15, 2011 at 2:41 pm #957490

    Have you looked into putting a Jack Plate on. It seems to be the way that some people do it to get a kicker motor on their boats, I saw one on a bayliner ski boat last weekend.

    john_steinhauer
    p4
    Posts: 2998
    April 15, 2011 at 2:42 pm #957491

    I had a older ranger for a while with a 150 merc with no room for a kicker, and I just changed props along with trimming the motor a little bit. I was able to get my speed down low enough to troll for eyes it’s something to think about.

    iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    April 15, 2011 at 2:47 pm #957494

    Which prop pitch did you go to? Not sure if I want to run that 150 at idle for that long. Run into any issues with the engine?

    iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    April 15, 2011 at 3:05 pm #957504

    I saw that in Minn-Kota’s 2011 product catalog but wasn’t sure how it would work for walleye trolling. Have you used this setup?

    Wade Boardman
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts: 4453
    April 15, 2011 at 3:10 pm #957507

    Quote:

    I saw that in Minn-Kota’s 2011 product catalog but wasn’t sure how it would work for walleye trolling. Have you used this setup?



    Drift socks are a pain, but the do work.

    Also a Terrova 80# should be able to slow troll that thing all day long with some good batteries (group 31). However putting 2 group 31 batteries or even 3 Group 27s (if you went with a 101# Terrova) will most likely be an issue.

    I would start with determining how big the battery box is and what you can get in there. Don’t forget about the battery charger to.

    Also do you know the dimensions and weight of the boat/motor?

    happycampin
    New Richmond, WI
    Posts: 667
    April 15, 2011 at 3:31 pm #957522

    Watched Babe Winkleman on Lake Erie with this set up last weekend. It looked very slick and no extra motor to maintain. I’m sure someone will chime in who has used one.

    I have a jack plate on my 115 Evinrude that works pretty well, but the larger motors tend to load up at lower rps.

    Good Luck!

    iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    April 15, 2011 at 4:10 pm #957547

    Has anyone ever had a Motorguide troller with a 3-way switch: 12V, off, 24V. After looking at my two batteries they look as though they are hooked up for 12Vs but each battery has a lead running toward the front of the boat before I can see if they are “connected”. I’m wondering if this troller is setup to switch back and forth between 12 and 24? Ever heard of this? When I do switch over to the 24V side the motor spins at least twice as fast.

    Walleyebry
    Isle, mn.
    Posts: 145
    April 15, 2011 at 5:28 pm #957595

    I’ve had an EM 80 minnkota on my last three Ranger tillers and now would find it hard not to have one. The only thing they dont do very well is backtroll. They work well in reverse to slow boat down or slip drift, but for all out backtrolling it isnt the best.
    Walleyebry NPAA #993

    iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    April 16, 2011 at 1:00 pm #957794

    Thanks for the info Walleyebry. Run a 12 or 24 volt system?

    1hl&sinker
    On the St.Croix
    Posts: 2501
    April 16, 2011 at 10:55 pm #957908

    Quote:

    Has anyone ever had a Motorguide troller with a 3-way switch: 12V, off, 24V. After looking at my two batteries they look as though they are hooked up for 12Vs but each battery has a lead running toward the front of the boat before I can see if they are “connected”. I’m wondering if this troller is setup to switch back and forth between 12 and 24? Ever heard of this? When I do switch over to the 24V side the motor spins at least twice as fast.

    I have the same switch on my DynaTrak I believe it is for, like you mentioned, switching from 12 to 24 volt. I always had a 12 volt power drive on so I never tested it out. I guess I could hook up a volt meter to substantiate our suspicion. Geese after 15 years of owning my boat I should know by now.

    iowa_nitro
    Iowa
    Posts: 12
    April 18, 2011 at 11:59 am #958246

    I have the same switch on my DynaTrak I believe it is for, like you mentioned, switching from 12 to 24 volt. I always had a 12 volt power drive on so I never tested it out. I guess I could hook up a volt meter to substantiate our suspicion. Geese after 15 years of owning my boat I should know by now.

    HA! Sometimes you just don’t want to take the chance! Yeah I haven’t actually ran it in the water with the 24V setting but I am pretty sure I could because the 12V setting barely moves the boat in a slight chop. i will have to do some testing as well.

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